have had this happen a couple of times in different trucks. the brackets that come down off of the firewall was broken/cracked and causing the pedal to deflect and not let the tranny function correctly. welded it all up and it is fine now.

 

Cool, not really worth proving my point. Mine works your doesn't, got it. You should get a copy of the FSM perhaps it will help you better understand or solve your problem.

Let us know what it turns out to be.

 

[QUOTE=muddpigg;51588959]Cool, not really worth proving my point. Mine works your doesn't, got it. You should get a copy of the FSM perhaps it will help you better understand or solve your problem.

Let us know what it turns out to be.

Sorry, didn't mean to sound offensive if I did. I've got a good enough understanding of the mechanics of it. I'm thinking its a warn out trans, and just figured it might be a clutch issue due to the improper pedal adjustment when I got the truck. I'll report back when I confirm what the issue was.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

true about reverse grinding. i always stick it into 2nd gear then put it into reverse so it wont grind

 

so i put a 89 transmission (it was too a v6) on my 93 T4R sr5 v6. and i put my new slave cylinder on and i bled it and i start my truck up and i cant even shift into first gear or second nor into any gear. I put my fork and throw out bearing on right i made sure by looking it on YT and also its a newer clutch. So upon this mystery i even went out to buy a master cylinder and rebled the line and still the same thing i cant shift into first gear or any gear

 

Ive had similar clutch problems and it turned out that with that specific problem, the metal bracket that attaches the brake and clutch pedal to the body was broken in several places. If i remember correctly, one of the breaks in the metal was around the hole that the clutch shaft to the master cylinder goes thru. it was a ROYAL PITA to remove that bracket and reinstall it. had to remove the master cyl and the brake master cyl and booster, and remove several things in the cab to get it out. definitely also had to remove the plastic trim below the steering wheel.

I ended up welding the bracket together instead of replacing, but the part is only available from the dealership, and it was somewhere around $175 i believe,

hope this helps.

 

You've had three posts now telling you to check the clutch pedal bracket. It is a common failure and I believe the source of your problem. You need to check this before you go any further.

 

i was having same problem, i adjusted the pedal and it was good for a while then my bracket holdiong it broke. thet crack in the corner allowing the pedal assembly to bend over a little and not disengage the clutch. took out pedals and welded it back together then reinforced it internally then boxing in the top open part. works great now. if all your other gear is new or good see if you can move you pedal side to side pull kind of hard then your bracket could be fatigued as well.

 

yea i had to take my column out but you should take it out and check it its a free fix and easy to improve if you have a welder and some extra steel laying around

 

i have bin fighting my clutch for a year hard to get into gear grinding all that fun stuff today i pushed in my clutch and felt a snap in the pedal and bam no clutch got on yotatech and everyone says check the pedal bracket so i did and geuss what pulled it out welded it up put it back together and omg better than ever i would of never thought of that thanks yotatech best yota site ever