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Can't remove CV AXLE nuts

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Old 08-05-2006, 03:41 PM
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Can't remove CV AXLE nuts

I've read all the threads I could find on here.

93 pickup 22re.

Trying to remove the CV Axles. I cannot even get one freaking nut loose of of the studs on the diff.

I tried using a compressor and a impact gun (250-300 ftlbs @90 psi), and they wouldn't even budge.

Yes, I shot them with plenty of PB Blaster...even sat overnight.

I know there are higher rated air guns, but that's all I have. But I assumed that should be enough...lol...but nope.

I'm about to cave and ask a driveline shop to do it...but figured I'd ask y'all
first.

I think I've pretty much exhausted my options. Those really powerful impact guns are huge and I can't see how I'd be able to do it with one of those. Not a lot of room there.

thanks!
Old 08-05-2006, 03:49 PM
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http://www.gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

good ole fashion muscle....work gloves.... and a LOOOONG 17mm wrench
Old 08-05-2006, 03:53 PM
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a 1/2" ratchet with 19mm socket and a 3 foot cheater bar
Tis the method I use, the old cheater bar works like a charm, not the best idea, you could snap a bolt by using it, but sometimes its all thats left.
Old 08-05-2006, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ZUK
http://www.gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

good ole fashion muscle....work gloves.... and a LOOOONG 17mm wrench
Yeah, believe me...I've given every ounce of strength I have.

I've pushed so hard I think I'm going to bust the ebrake and push the truck down the driveway.

I was able to get in a forward "bench press" position and push the wrench, and the thing won't budge...I've gotta be putting at least 250-300lbs of force pushing with everyting I have....

...actually...as pissed off as I got, I think I was probably pushing with more force than that...the adrenaline runs and makes me nuts
Old 08-05-2006, 06:58 PM
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torch that sonofa........
jk.

Have you tried a breaker bar? Its worth a shot.

I had to help a guy do the same thing at work. We got a breaker bar and pretty much did pushups. But then again im 350 and i used to play football. here we go. Imagine that the nut is the one thing you hate. Attack.

Hope i helped.

Mark
Old 08-06-2006, 06:11 AM
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I think I see the reason why you are having so much trouble. Yes, the nut is tight but you are using the parking brake...something about the way the whole drivetrain and brake are "cushioning" the force you are applying. I used 2 closed end quality wrenches....it won't work with the open end of the wrench.....I simply allowed the left wrench to find a natural stopper when I rotated the CV a little.....and then aplied a little grunt on the right wrench. Something about a nice solidly located stud while applying pressure on the nut.
By the way.....that's why your impact was not working. Secure the left stud with a closed end wrench and smack the right side with the impact. Did it work?

I just thought of something......you do know that only the nut on the right side of my pic turns?.....that the left side is a stud that is pounded into the CV with serrations to keep it from turning...you knew that?


Old 08-06-2006, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ZUK
I just thought of something......you do know that only the nut on the right side of my pic turns?.....that the left side is a stud that is pounded into the CV with serrations to keep it from turning...you knew that?
That's the first thing I thought of. I was thinking you couldn't get an impact on the nut side - hell a boxend wrench doesn't have too much room.

Hint - order some Metric Grade 10.9 bolts and nuts in M12x1.25x30mm and replace the studs with them, will make it much easier next time...
Old 08-06-2006, 11:17 AM
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what i did was leave the tire on w/ one nut just to hold it on, had a friend hold the tire still while i yanked on the wrench. Took a little while and work but we got it. You gotta find somehow to get as much leverage as you can and then drop all your weight on it. Make sure that your not gonna tear your nuckles apart when it comes loose!

Oh and to get the stud out, get a big punch and really pound on it with a mallet. make sure the punch is in the little hemisphere at the end of the stud. Your gonna find yourself needing to really pound on em to get em out, but they'll come. Remember you only have to do 2!
Old 08-06-2006, 11:32 AM
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Zuk, yeah, I know only the nut turns. I did the same thing you were doing. I put one wrench on the stud side and let it get secured on part of the frame or whatever and tried torqing just the nut.

I started to see the nut "rounding off" so I got scared and said to heck w/ it. Just won't move.

I don't really see how the parking brake would make any difference, unless I'm missing something. I'm no genious on this, so I don't know.

Yeah, I was able to get an impact gun on the stud. I tried to use a 45 degree coupler thing to get at it from below first...that didn't work too well, so I got under the passenger side behind the tire and there was a small opening just big enough to get the gun w/ a small extension on the nut...but to no avail.

I'm thinkin these just must be the stock cv's. Been on there for 13 years and just freaking stuck.

I'm gonna keep trying dangit. Fixing my a/c right now is a priority. Hopefully I can get the compressor off easy...lol
Old 08-06-2006, 12:06 PM
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The parking brake only locks the rear wheels. I found having a helper stand on the brakes helps, or you could break the nuts loose before jacking up the truck. I didn't have nearly that many problems with mine - and I live where cars rust A LOT faster than Austin!

PB Blaster, let soak in, reapply + breaker bar

I use a long end wrench (30mm wrench), hooking the box end through the open end of the wrench that fits the nuts.
Old 08-06-2006, 02:55 PM
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You could use a disc grinder and grind down approx 1/3 of the nut (not into the bolt). Its surprising how the heat of the grinder on the bolt, and the decreased grip because of the material removal, loosens them up every time. I had a few stubborn ones that I used this method on. A socket will still fit on the nut after the grinding Just had to buy a few new nuts.
Old 08-06-2006, 03:57 PM
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bets wya to get off stuborn bolts and nuts is to heast and touch somethign wax on there it fraws into the threads and will coem off easily
Old 08-06-2006, 07:55 PM
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Hey, heating them up is a great idea! lol...didn't think about that!

I have a little blowtorch thing, I'll try that and let you know.

The grinder is a good idea too.

Gonna go get a big breaker bar tomorrow. Got the day off.....gonna sweat a couple gallons of water off of me, but that's fine.
Old 08-10-2006, 05:46 PM
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Just an update.

Finally got all nuts off with the blowtorch method. I had to toast them until they were white and then use every ounce of strength I had to get them off. My hands are all swollen...just a nightmare. But I got the bastards off.
Old 08-10-2006, 05:50 PM
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right on way to go
Old 08-13-2006, 07:10 PM
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Final Update...


This was definately the hardest freaking thing I've ever done on this truck. What a rediculous endeavour!

Getting the drivers side cv back in was the hardest. I had to compress the cv so much that the dang tripod pushed the seal off and I just had to deal with it and slide the seal/cap back up there once I got the cv on the studs.

I probably put 20 hours in 4 or 5 days doing both sides. Ugh!
Old 08-14-2006, 06:23 AM
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The best way I've found to replace the CV axles in my 2nd gen is not to remove any of the six studs, but the take the four bolts of the lower balljoint off, push the lower suspension arm down as low as it will go (I jammed a block of wood between it and the bumpstop to hold it there as I worked), and the CV axle will slide out no problem at all.

To loosen the nuts that hold the axle to the diff, I left the truck in park with the E-brake on with the front wheels on the ground. I then used two combination wrenches (the closed end of the 17mm on the nut, and the closed end of another large combination wrench hooked onto the open end of the 17mm to double the length of the lever arm. Worked like a charm. I did curse and swear at it for 10 minutes before trying that, though.

Leaving the wheels on the ground requires you to jack the truck up after doing the first 3 nuts so that you can rotate the wheel to access the last 3.
Old 08-14-2006, 04:02 PM
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Got to be on a 4runner. I have pickup I just position the axle to get @ the first three bolts and lock the hub. I then get out my trusty heavy duty 17mm box end wrench and my 22oz Eastwing and pound on the wrench about 3 or 4 good whacks and they come loose. This method has yet to fail on any stubborn bolt, even the dreaded crankshaft bolt. I just use a bigger hammer!
Old 08-14-2006, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Saint_Berzerker
.................................................I started to see the nut "rounding off" so I ...............................
You make it sound like you were trying to use OPEN END wrenches. I can see that happening with those. In any event, aren't you glad that at least there was no worries about them loosening up by themselves and falling out
Old 08-14-2006, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ZUK
You make it sound like you were trying to use OPEN END wrenches. I can see that happening with those. In any event, aren't you glad that at least there was no worries about them loosening up by themselves and falling out

No, I didn't use open end wrenches. That would be certain failure.

Like I said earlier...the only way those bastages came BARELY LOOSE was by blasting them with the propane torch till they were freaking almost glowing, then pulling/pushing with everything I had...lol.

I didn't take any of the studs out...left them in.


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