sinneDBTB

yesterday i noticed that my truck wouldnt start by pushing the clutch and turning the key, instead i have to use the "clutch start cancel" button. today my truck wont go into reverse without grinding loudly til its slows down enough to go in...

now the obvious would be that my clutch is gone right?
heres my problem, i just paid rent and have ZERO dollars til the 15th and i need to get to work. i can still shift through the gears ok and it will come out at lights, but obviously the problem is getting worse.

IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO TO GET ME THROUGH THE WEEK?


PLEASE SAVE THE SARCASM AND CORNY REMARKS, I NEED HELP...

Jay351

your clutch pedal bracket is probibly cracked and wont let it fully disengauge the clutch...

Skinsfan6

You have a hydraulic clutch. Occasionally it needs to be bled just like a brake system. Try bleeding it. It's free and it could possibly be the cause. On the passenger side of the bellhousing there is the slave cylinder. On the slave cylinder is a bleeder screw that looks like one on a brake caliper. Have someone pump the clutch pedal, then hold it down, and open the bleeder screw. Let the fluid/air come out. Close it. THEN, after you close it, let your partner release the pedal. Just like bleeding the brakes. The only thing is the clutch pedal won't get noticeably hard like a brake pedal does. But do this a couple times and try driving it and see if it helps. Even if it doesn't, it didn't cost you anything.

Also, remember to keep an eye on the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. It's located right in the corner of the engine compartment on the firewall next to the brake booster. You may have to add a little to it if you lose much bleeding it.

Skinsfan6

And after checking what Jay said and bleeding it, try adjusting the pedal. Up towards the top of the pedal, way up under the dash, there is a threaded shaft with I believe two nuts on it. I can't remember off the top of my head which way it needs to be adjusted to tighten the clutch, but remember you want to increase the preload on the master cylinder piston. Or decrease the distance it has to move to get the master cylinder piston working.

algranger

Sounds like your master or slave cylinder might be loosing pressure, is it ever slightly more difficult to put it into first?

sinneDBTB

only downshifting to first... like approaching a red right before you stop...

it has been coming out of gear from time to time too... now that i think of it

Skinsfan6

I've driven lots of five speed yotas...none of them liked downshifting to first until they were almost at a complete stop.

tj884Rdlx

you dont need a clutch to shift gears, just 'baby' the pedal to find the spot where it synchs and slips into gear.

meanwhile, check for fluid leakage at your pedal. when mine did this, it turned out to be the clutch master was leaking at the firewall. i found fluid behind the carpet behind the pedal. easy to change out and much cheaper than a clutch. bleeding at the slave underneath is easy first check as described above.

sinneDBTB

funny question... can i use power steering fluid to top up the clutch fluid? hahaha seriously?

iamsuperbleeder

I bet you have a lot of fine shards of gear teeth in your trans fluid


I vote as well for bleeding; the only thing it might cost you is a small $2 bottle of brake fluid


worst comes to worst, I drove an Isuzu around for 2 months after a throwout bearing decentegraded WOULD NOT come out or go into any gear I just rigged the clutch button, and started in gear, and did the ol "match the RPMs to the speed" trick, lol. yeah, I had NO cash at the time either to do a clutch job, so I know how ya feel

iamsuperbleeder

noooooo

first off, the PS fluid in Yotas is AFT (Automatic Transmission fluid)

also, neither ATF OR true PSF, would be good in your clutch system

true it's all technically a form of hydraulic fluid, but each has it's own properties

but, oddly enough, BRAKE FLUID is what you want to go with in a hydraulic clutch

sinneDBTB

bled the clutch,found a couple small leaks in the couplers where it switches from metal lines to rubber, nothing very serious.
now it wont go into reverse or first unless i turn the engine off and the clutch doesnt stop reverse... i guess i'll be driving forwards only for a week or so...

iamsuperbleeder

did you check to see that there's fluid in the resevour?

I'm willing to bet, that because of the leak, the level was low, and jumping right to bleeding it without topping it off first (if that is what you did) caused even MORE air to be forced into the system, which would make things worse...

sinneDBTB

yeah i topped it up before bleeding it

abecedarian

Checked the clutch pushrod adjustment? (although that won't affect the need to use the clutch start cancel switch).

sinneDBTB

i took off my slave cyl. on the side of the trans. and noticed that my clutch release fork was moving freely? should it not have a spring loaded feel to it like it is moving the disc? i think i broke off the clip.... sound right?

heres a link with a diagram
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7clutchun.pdf

sinneDBTB

anyone? i'd hate to take the tranny out to find out that i'm wrong...
the clip on the clutch release?

sinneDBTB

after a long couple days of typical bad luck i have my truck back in my shop with the tranny unbolted. i just cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the bottom bolt off the starter so i can slide the trans out to figure out my clutch issue.

someone out there has taken out their starter before i know it... how the frig did you do it?

Jay351

I didnt have an issue when doing the clutch on mine. Just need extensions and perhaps a wobble attachment.

Does your bolt slide out the front?

TNRabbit

There are two bolts on the 3.0 starter, one is accessible from the back pax side of the tranny with several extensions and a wobbler. The other is accessible with a LOT of extensions directly through the front of the truck (valance).