jawxx

I just finished putting on new brake calipers, rotors and pads...

I want to bleed the brakes but am having some trouble.

I am using the LOOSEN BLEEDER VALVE, PRESS BRAKE PEDAL, TIGHTEN BLEEDER VALVE, RELEASE BREAK PEDAL method.

There is no fluid coming out of either bleeder valve. The MC is full, I'm keeping an eye on it. I didn't touch the rear brakes at all. I also noticed when I loosen the bleeder valve I can hear a tad bit of suction, just quick *whisp* that sounds like its sucking in some air.

And just so you know, the brake pedal is going all the way the floor, every time.

The brakes WERE working before this project, though when I removed the calipers the passenger side didn't leak at all, and the driver side very little.

Any suggestions would help, I'd like to drive my truck to AutoZone and get my core money back on the calipers.

Thanks,
-Justin

iamsuperbleeder

try pumping the pedal serveral times untill the pressure builds up, then hold it down and open the bleeder valve, tighten it up, release the pedal and repeat.

obviously, you'll need someone else to do one or the other...

welcome to Y.T. btw!

eric-the-red

Are you sure you have the calipers on the correct sides, the bleed screws have to be at the top. It's been done before.

iamsuperbleeder

/\ /\ /\ X's 2 there on that thought... /\ /\ /\

abecedarian

Here's a tip:
get some clear vinyl tubing, like you would use for an aquarium, and put that on the bleeder screw. Put the other end in a CLEAR glass jar that has some brake fluid in it and make sure the end of the tubing is well inside the brake fluid in the jar. This helps keep the bleed screw from sucking air into the cylinder or caliper just in case you miss the timing.
Now..
Always start at the brake cylinder or caliper most distant from the master cylinder. Even if you're only doing the front brakes, I recommend bleeding the rears as well, just so you have clean fluid in the system. Brake fluid (well, at least DOT 3 & 4) absorb water from the atmosphere and in spite of your best efforts WILL get water in the lines.

So... ENGINE OFF!

1) Person (1) by the caliper says "Pump it up"
2) Person (2) in the cab presses and releases the brake pedal several times in rapid succession then holds the pedal down and says "Pedal Down"
3) Person (1) by the caliper loosens the bleeder screw just enough to let the air / fluid escape then tightens the bleeder screw before the fluid stops coming out and says "Done".
4) Person (2) releases the brake pedal and checks the fluid level in the master cylinder, filling it if necessary with clean brake fluid.
5) Person (2) gets back in the cab and says "Ready"
6) Repeat 1 through 5 several times until there are no bubbles and clean fluid is coming out.
7) Repeat steps 1 through 6 for each of the remaining wheels.
8) Have a beer or two- this step can be swapped with step 7 if you're all having a good time.

I usually bleed each fitting at least 5 times, maybe more, at least until CLEAN brake fluid comes out AND there are no air bubbles in the system and then a couple more times just to be safe. Brake fluid is cheap compared to the cost of accidents and injuries.'

jawxx

Just saw the previous post, might have to get some tubing....

Calipers are definitely on correctly. All brake lines are connected where they should be, seeing as I only disconnected two this part wasn't too difficult.

I must have just pumped my brake pedal a hundred times, with no more pressure or without the Master Cylinder fluid level changing. I can see the pistons on my new calipers haven't moved yet as the pads can still be jiggled around.

Any more ideas?

Thanks.

abecedarian

I'll be honest with you, the tubing is not a necessity. It just helps keep air from getting into the system, like I mentioned, and has the added benefit of keeping the brake fluid from squirting all around and making a mess.
You may or may not know it but brake fluid WILL cause paint to bubble.

CJM

You did do 1 at a time, if not there is a heck of alot of air in there.

Like has been said: 2 person method. One pumps, then holds pedal, other loosens bleeder and tightens bleeder. Repeat till done.

jawxx

I did them both at the same time, so I know there's going to be air in there, however here's whats happening:

I'm using the tubing, why not have some visual aid?

Having the other person pump x amount of times, usually about 10, then hold.

I loosen, see a few air bubbles, then close.

Repeat.

However, on the 3rd or 4th round there's no more air bubbles, and no fluid. It's just doing... nothing. I'm stumped, and getting angry which isn't helping.

I did try loosening once with the pedal up, and it sucked brake fluid about 3 4ths up the tube. I closed the valve. Pumped 4 or 5 times, opened it up again and it shot the fluid back into my cup. but no more air.

Why am I unable to create pressure?

Please, any more advise. If I have to pay someone I'm just going to be more pissed.

Thanks.

abecedarian

The master cylinder has air in it. You'll need to bleed that. The auto parts store should have a bench-bleed kit.
Your only other option is to leave the hose from the caliper in the brake fluid and open the bleeder, then walk away for a day or so, so that the air can migrate up the brake lines and out the master cylinder.

jawxx

Oh dang. That sucks.

Is there a write up on doing that properly... I've definitely NEVER done that before and don't want to screw it up.

rustypigeon

is the pedal going down on that 3rd or 4th time when nothing is happening? Here is a tip... put the parking brake on whenever bleeding brakes. If your rear shoes are not firm on the drums it can make getting the last bit of air difficult to get out. The brake fluid keeps moving the brake shoes and makes bubbles move around in the lines.

HAVOC

When ever you install new calipers (or wheel cylinders) you should "gravity bleed" them first. Make sure the master is full, then loosen the bleeder and wait until you see a little brake fluid coming out. Tighten the bleeder then do the other wheel. Then bleed as normal.
This also pertains to bleeding slave cylinders.

jawxx

Parking brake hasn't worked on this as long as I've had it...

As for the pedal, it goes to the floor, easily, every single time.

With this gravity bleeding.... should the cap be off the MC?

abecedarian

Another reason why I suggest bleeding the rear brakes as well even when only doing the fronts.

HAVOC

Cap should be off the master.
E-brake: possible broken cable

foot0069

Try bleeding the master cylinder. Stuff a couple of rags under and around the lines you hooked up. Don't pump just apply steady pressure to the pedal then loosen the fitting just as you would the caliper bleeder. Then tighten the fitting before releasing the pedal. Do both lines a couple of times each then fall back to the other bleaders. Check/ change the rags before they get soaked so you dont stip the paint off the brake booster or inner fender.
This should help you, most master cylinders come with destuctions telling you to do this before you install em. Your's musta been left out of the box.
Hope it helps
Jim

foot0069

You can also get a vacuum bleeder set at auto zone or such places, I think anyhow. Makes it really easy to bleed things. And it makes it a one man job as well. The kits are like 40 bucks but last forever and should come with good destructions.
Jim

JDMSLIK

Just bench bleed it, it's not that hard and the kits are pretty cheap. They give you some hoses and some plastic things that screw into the orificis(holes that brake lines screw into) on the master cylinder. You remove the master cylinder (loosen the lines before you loosen the MC from the booster). Then the hoses go from the orifices into the resevoir. You fill up the master cylinder Resevoir and pump the plunger with a screwdriver or something. It just pumps into itself and basically gets all the air out.

I've tried to gravity bleed a bunch of times and I found it doesn't work very well when you have air in the MC. It does this air lock thing. Maybe somebody has a procedure for gravity bleeding a dry MC I don't know about, but I ussually only gravity bleed when I'm installing a new caliper and it's only been a few minutes or so. A buddy of mine spent two days gravity bleeding a 300zx after a fresh MC install and had no luck.
How long was your truck sitting with the calipers off?

JDMSLIK

awesome.....actually those kits do work pretty good for bleeding brakes, those the ones that hook up to the spare tire right.