After several weeks of research,22re, I believe I have some burned exhaust valves on #1 cylinder. Exhaust suction!!!! The top front exhaust manifold bolt was stripped letting exhaust through. I ended up drilling and tapping a heli coil in and putting a new gasket in. I have also replaced Coil, wires, plugs, pcv, vacuum hoses, igniter, Tps, and cleaned throttle body (all OEM parts). Still missing power mid acceleration. So, I guess the leak burned the valves on #1.

Background:

Bought the truck from a young kid about 3 months ago.. 283K miles. Its a solid truck with no rust at all and everything works. It was dirty and has been rattle canned...but who cares. All original trim and chrome was there and in good shape. He said the guy he bought it from rebuilt it..he was supposedly a Toyota mechanic. Honestly, I kinda believe him..No smoke on crank, cranks right up after setting a week at a time, uses no oil or coolant. Runs great with the exception of the mid range power. I think the bolt came loose and the kid overtightened it, resulting in the problem.

My questions are as follows...

1) Should I just pull the head, replace bad valves and go on? $100???

2) Should I order new OS SS valves, guides, springs, retainers from engnbldr and have the whole head worked? $500???

3) Should I keep driving it till I can do a full rebuild? $1500???

Your advice is greatly appreciated. I think my mechanical skills and available time end at pulling the head and having it reworked. Full rebuild will have to be done by someone else.

 

I need to drive this truck a 90 mile round trip per day. I have already done the other PM such as all new oils, greased, replaced cv, completely cleaned and repacked front bearings. Clutch, tranny, transfer are in good shape. No rear axle wheel seal leaks. Ujoints are good as well. This is the last issue before suspension, steering and tires.

 

Why do you think you have burnt valves? The first thing you notice with a burnt valve is a really poor idle( bad missing on that cylinder).
Before you pull the head do a compression check( leakdown test will tell you where your problem actually is though).

 

Ok, I will try that...It was an assumption based on the location of the exhaust leak. Idle is a little high, but fine. I need to reset the idle air screw.