Junkers88

Ok did my rear brakes yesterday and it went ok. Now the pedal moves a long way before the truck stops and if I push a little harder the pedal will almost go to the floor.

I did't break the lines so I shouldn't have to bleed anything right?

I did notice however that the fluid holdy thingy was over full and the top of the rubber cap on top of the fluid holdy thingy was passing fluid. Even after I pulled some of the fluid out and cleaned the cap it is still a little "wet" looking. Could the cap be bad or worn out? Would it passing fluid be the cause of the smooshy pedal?

Oh and if I pump the pedal once it seems to engage much sooner.


On a side note I got my low pro bump stops on today for my wheeling trip tomorrow (if the brakes get figured out). It took about 10 minutes for all six and they look neat.

Dipstik_90

Did you adjust the rear brakes after you installed them? Pull the E-brake a bunch of times see if that helps a bit.

Junkers88

Initially I pulled the e-brake and it pulled out a long way and didn't engage. I don't have anything small enough to get in the adjuster slot so I pulled each e-brake cable a certain number of times (I could hear it clicking in there) and got the e-brake to work. Can I just pull the e-brake like a million times and adjust it that way?

Thanks in advance.

abecedarian

yep. the e-brake serves as the adjuster for the rear brakes. just keep pulling. and switch off arms so you don't develop a bicep imbalance.

Junkers88

Thanks guys! This is my first ever brake job and I really thought it would just go back together and work.

CJM

The e-brake wont adjust them really well. You need to get a smaller flathead, and push int he easiest direction with it ont he wheel inside the drum. Dont stop till you can physically see very little clearance between the shoes and the drum cover. There is a little peekhole on the lowerpart of the backingplate.

CyMoN

craftsman sells a brake tool set that is pretty nice it has the spoon lever for adjusting the brakes.
I am on a break right now from replacing the rear brake cylinders on a friends chuby Corsica What a pain you have to unbolt the wheel bearings and pull them out to get the brake cylinders out that and I had to go buy some external torx bits at the tune of 40$ but the more tools I buy the more cars and trucks I can fix

abecedarian

if you consider the maintenance on wheel bearings nearly matches the brake shoe life span... having to remove the bearings makes sense...
... or it is a conspiracy against home mechanics perpetuated by corporate america to keep the man down.

CJM

Its stupid engineering imho.. GM brake calipers suck on buicks post 1995 or so, you need a special tool to rotate the pistons in, they dont squeeze.. In my expierance GM and newer ford, and anything european is a pita to work on. Funny fact is toyota is stil easier overall, even brand new..