brakes
#1
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brakes
well we tore into my truck tonight to do the brake pads... not expecting we found out she needed bearing, calipers, rotors, pads, seels talk about a pain in the a$$. we r gonna tear into it again tomarrow night to finish. any good tips?
i have decided to never go to schucks again they tried selling us the wrong calipers and when we said no the charged us any ways!!!!
so good ol' napa took care of us...
thanks clint
i have decided to never go to schucks again they tried selling us the wrong calipers and when we said no the charged us any ways!!!!
so good ol' napa took care of us...
thanks clint
#2
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shucks sucks.
you can use a 56 mm socket to remove the bearing nut. or a hammer and a standard screwdriver. when installing, get the inner one snug, not tight. and the outer one real tight.
lube up the edges and rear of the brake pads so it moves easily. reuse the factory shims if you still have them. the bleeder screw goes on top, when installing the new calipers.
use brake clean to clean the surface of the rotors. it has a anti rust coating tha must be removed, inorder for the pads to seat properly.
when you do the test drive, do this, 4 times, from 25 to 5 slow the truck but dont stop completly. try and drive at least a mile with out stopping. then do a firm 45-5 slowdown with out stopping. and try to drive again with out stopping for at least a mile. then go back home and make the final easy stop.
by doing this you are letting the pad break in properly. if you dont do this, the pads will glaze, and they wont work as good, and might squeel.
after the rotors are cool, you can drive it like normal.
you can use a 56 mm socket to remove the bearing nut. or a hammer and a standard screwdriver. when installing, get the inner one snug, not tight. and the outer one real tight.
lube up the edges and rear of the brake pads so it moves easily. reuse the factory shims if you still have them. the bleeder screw goes on top, when installing the new calipers.
use brake clean to clean the surface of the rotors. it has a anti rust coating tha must be removed, inorder for the pads to seat properly.
when you do the test drive, do this, 4 times, from 25 to 5 slow the truck but dont stop completly. try and drive at least a mile with out stopping. then do a firm 45-5 slowdown with out stopping. and try to drive again with out stopping for at least a mile. then go back home and make the final easy stop.
by doing this you are letting the pad break in properly. if you dont do this, the pads will glaze, and they wont work as good, and might squeel.
after the rotors are cool, you can drive it like normal.
#3
A 54mm socket and NEVER a hammer and screwdriver. Also if you'll search for a write-up as to how to properly install the bearings to the proper preload and torque settings they are easy to find...so they wont' grenade again prematurely.
Last edited by rworegon; 08-18-2014 at 05:38 PM.
#4
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but i still use the hammer and screw driver method. i dont miss, or screw it up
Last edited by rworegon; 08-18-2014 at 05:38 PM.
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#7
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AutoZone has a very good write up on adjusting bearings and lists torque settings.
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm
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#9
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well i gotum on rotors calipers, pads, bearings seels, hell i went all out new tires, wheels, and rear shocks lol
i went with the wild country rvt's and black steelies lol looks good ill get some pics up tomarrow... lol
thanks for all the help worked out great
clint
i went with the wild country rvt's and black steelies lol looks good ill get some pics up tomarrow... lol
thanks for all the help worked out great
clint
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