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Old 04-12-2007, 05:46 PM
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brakes

well we tore into my truck tonight to do the brake pads... not expecting we found out she needed bearing, calipers, rotors, pads, seels talk about a pain in the a$$. we r gonna tear into it again tomarrow night to finish. any good tips?
i have decided to never go to schucks again they tried selling us the wrong calipers and when we said no the charged us any ways!!!!
so good ol' napa took care of us...

thanks clint
Old 04-12-2007, 06:44 PM
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shucks sucks.
you can use a 56 mm socket to remove the bearing nut. or a hammer and a standard screwdriver. when installing, get the inner one snug, not tight. and the outer one real tight.

lube up the edges and rear of the brake pads so it moves easily. reuse the factory shims if you still have them. the bleeder screw goes on top, when installing the new calipers.

use brake clean to clean the surface of the rotors. it has a anti rust coating tha must be removed, inorder for the pads to seat properly.

when you do the test drive, do this, 4 times, from 25 to 5 slow the truck but dont stop completly. try and drive at least a mile with out stopping. then do a firm 45-5 slowdown with out stopping. and try to drive again with out stopping for at least a mile. then go back home and make the final easy stop.

by doing this you are letting the pad break in properly. if you dont do this, the pads will glaze, and they wont work as good, and might squeel.
after the rotors are cool, you can drive it like normal.
Old 04-12-2007, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 80W90
shucks sucks.
you can use a 56 mm socket to remove the bearing nut. or a hammer and a standard screwdriver. when installing, get the inner one snug, not tight. and the outer one real tight.
A 54mm socket and NEVER a hammer and screwdriver. Also if you'll search for a write-up as to how to properly install the bearings to the proper preload and torque settings they are easy to find...so they wont' grenade again prematurely.

Last edited by rworegon; 08-18-2014 at 05:38 PM.
Old 04-12-2007, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
A 54mm socket and NEVER a hammer and screwdriver. Also if you'll search for a write-up as to how to properly install the bearings to the proper preload and torque settings they are easy to find...so they wont' grenade again prematurely.




but i still use the hammer and screw driver method. i dont miss, or screw it up

Last edited by rworegon; 08-18-2014 at 05:38 PM.
Old 04-12-2007, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 80W90


but i still use the hammer and screw driver method. i dont miss, or screw it up
I used the hammer & screwdriver method for 6 years thru several bearing packs. Never an issue. Over 217,000 miles on the current bearings/hubs/axles with no issues. Probably not the easiest method, but it works if you've got a brain in yer head.
Old 04-12-2007, 07:22 PM
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Buy a 54mm socket...they cost $14.

A hammer and a screw driver.

You guys are killing me.

Old 04-12-2007, 07:29 PM
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AutoZone has a very good write up on adjusting bearings and lists torque settings.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm
Old 04-12-2007, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Buy a 54mm socket...they cost $14.

A hammer and a screw driver.

You guys are killing me.

I just bought one.....from YOU....a couple of days ago. Decided to make an honest wrench out of my ratchet....
Old 04-16-2007, 08:30 PM
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well i gotum on rotors calipers, pads, bearings seels, hell i went all out new tires, wheels, and rear shocks lol

i went with the wild country rvt's and black steelies lol looks good ill get some pics up tomarrow... lol

thanks for all the help worked out great

clint
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