DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Here is what I have: 1986 Toyota 4Runner Dlx 22re

Here is what i have in mind for my brake upgrade

1. '95 4Runner V6 Calipers
2. '95 4Runner Vented Slotted rotors
3. Braided steel brake lines
4. Some sort of upgraded pads
5. LC or '95 4Runner master cylinder (difference is 1/16")
6. '95 4Runner brake booster
7. Synthetic brake fluid

The reason Im asking opinions, is not for the braking power increase, but will my backing plate accomidate all this, or will I need to cut it? Also, what do you all think of this setup? I realize the extra stopping power may not be *huge* but I am in a position where I can spend relativly little money (by getting most of these parts used for free or almost free) for this gain.

Bill

I'm actually very interested in this too. I'm looking at doing the same thing on my 86 Turbo. My question to this point was/is: do I need the Land Cruiser discs normally used (when doing an SAS), or can I get away with using standard V6 discs?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

methinks you can use the standard V6 discs, since the IFS spindles are all the same size.

the only reason tho use land cruiser discs is becasue they are vented, verses the truck discs which are merely solid

Bill

My wondering came from the issue that most guys that do this swap, are doing it in conjunction with an SAS(that I've seen anyways). Apperantly in that case, the LC rotors are thinner than the stock ones.

But if stock V6's will work, huzzah!

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

LC rotors are not thinner than stock non-vent rotors!! Stock V6's should work cause its the same spindle. I will research this extensively, and will likely end up doing this Mod, so watch for a writeup unless someone can help me out with difficulties.

CyMoN

do not get carbon metallic pads they need to be hotter to get better stopping power they are ment for racing

CJM

Dont bother with drilled or slotted rotors, they do absolutely nothing. Use brembo or similar brands blanks.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

So, stick with Factory pads and Factory V6 rotors and calipers? is that what im reading?

brandontrek

personally i noticed a good jump when i went to the LC rotors with the slots and drilled holes. less fade(i do alot of spritied mountian driving), i can feel them getting hot and grabbing better(i love this), the bite seems to be much better, and i don't get brake dust everywhere.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Buy all your junk local, cheaper than ever Trail Gear
I got all the part numbers at home
Loaded IFS V6 "finned" Calipers - Beck/Arnley local, buy them local
Venter Rotors - FJ62 1989 LC (8 holes, 6 for studs 2 to bolt to wheel hub)
SS braided lines for sure
OEM pads come in the loaded calipers, those are the best IMO
FJ80 LC MC like Marlin, TG, All Pro sell, again locally cheaper
Dual diaphragm booster is what you want, not sure of years, look on Pirate Toyota FAQ for that
Brake fluid is brake fluid IMO and since you don't waste much of it, why not synthetic

If you got some more questions, just email me, I just bought all this junk and I've researched it pretty thoroughly.

Yota82

IMO, stock Toyota front brakes are not the weakness to the brake system. They have 4 piston calipers from the factory which was ahead of it's time in those days. The rear brakes are definantly the weak point and the most overlooked part of the system. They constantly require adjustment to work well. Have you adjusted the rear brakes lately? I would concider a rear disc conversion. Don't let people tell you that drilled/slotted rotors are a waste of money because they are about the same price as a stock rotor. LC sells them for $40 each. Brake pads are a big part of stopping power, but it all depends on what you do with the truck. My braking system consists of LC drilled/slotted rotors, stock calipers, and a straight metallic pad. They don't work that good until there is a little heat in them, but they work extremely well. I need a metallic pad but they don't suit everyones needs. Synthetic fluid will not make your brakes work better. Stainless Steel bradel lines are a good idea because the rubber lines expand when the system is under pressure. A SS line will eliminate that. What do you primarily use the truck for?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Is it just me or are those wheel studs staring at me? Dang those look long and "bright".

Yota82

Yeah, those are ARP wheel studs. I was tired of breaking the stock ones and the longer stud has more thread engaugment.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Ok, couple more Q's then....why the FJ-62 Drilled/slotted rotors, instead of the 95 4runner rotors??

I just use my 4runner on the road, but I have been dreaming of a brake upgrade for a year now.

Also, like I said I would be buying/acquiring used '95 V6 calipers, and some sort of upgrade pad, unless stock (from the DEALER, OEM) will work well. Btw...beck arnley is NOT OEM by any means. They claim to be OEM Quality, but they are not Toyota Pads.

Also, does any company manufacture STOCK length SS lines?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

On the 85 axle it has the solid 8 hole rotors, the FJ62 has 8 hole vented rotors, so that is what I got.

As long as they are the bigger finned calipers w/ the 4 samed sized pistons, year doesn't matter as they are all the same thing. You can buy the "bigger" brakes from Marlin, AP, TG, or any brakes for that matter and you get Beck/Arnley or the like...remanufactured stuff you can buy at your local auto parts place cheaper and dump on them a core to save even more. I used the pads in the loaded calipers on my last set until they are toast, replaced w/ OEM. Simple enough on that one. OEM brake pads are like $45 set around here but last a LONG time.

Keep us posted on your progress. I hope to install all my new brakes on the 85 in the next 2 weeks...the calipers are off a the powder coater now for a little bling bling.

FredTJ

Everything else being the same, drilled rotors provide LESS stopping power than solid/vented rotors.

Braking depends on the conversion of energy to heat.

The heat is produced by the friction of the pads against the rotors.
The more friction, the faster the stop.

Drilled rotors provide less surface area (as much as 20% or so, depending on brand) which translates to less friction and less stopping power.

The mass of the metal (rotors) acts as a heat sink and it's an important part of braking, the ability to absorb heat and then dissipate the heat.
Drilled rotors have less mass than solid, vented rotors.


Simply not true these days.
Years ago, yes, but the modern rubber brake hoses do not expand at all under any pressure that one is likely to run through then in a braking system.




Fred

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Except I have an 86.....its already IFS!! The 95 4Runner uses a slightly larger rotor to match the slightly larger caliper. Im just asking to make sure the V6 rotor will work on my 86 spindle.

Is the FJ-62 rotor BETTER than the '95 4runner rotor, or will the FJ-62 rotor even work on my 86 IFS front end?

BTW FredTJ, my brake lines are 20 years old, with over 220K on them...i think they MIGHT be gettin soft these days

This is my re-thunk front end now:

1. 95 4Runner Calipers
2. 95 4Runner FACTORY rotors, not drilled or slotted
3. Factory OEM 95 4Runner brake pads
4. FJ80 MC
5. '95 4Runner V6 Brake booster
6. SS Brake lines
7. Brake system flush, replace with synthetic fluid

When I get ready to finally do this, I will be posting pics of the setup and results too. I just need to get this damn 89 4Runner out of the way FIRST! lol

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

My apologies on that one...I'm old and my brain

Everything I was saying was in reference to putting bigger brakes on a SFA, not an IFS, but the only real difference I see would be the vented rotor you get as it only needs to be 6 hole, like on my 87.

Please do keep us posted.

FredTJ

Ahhhh, yup, probably time for some replacements !!!






Fred

Flygtenstein

Wrong.

Have you ever run them?

Night and day difference with my 37's, I can lock them up.

Please consult "Internet Conjecture vs. Truth" Wisconsin Supreme Court Septemer 2006.

The stuff outlined sounds good. Stick to stock pads.

I think you are suggesting LC rotors. Never seen those stock on an IFS truck.