Does the steel braided line connect to the hardline and then to the calipers? Or does it connect straight to the calipers?

 

There is a factory hard line between the caliper and the soft line.

 

Sounds like you ended up receiving the earlier brake rotors that are pre 06/91 they will be narrower than the post 06/91 rotors. If you look on Rock Auto for the 1991 4Runner 3.0L 4X4 you will see the dates and the size differences are listed for the thicknesses of the rotors. PowerStop is the brake pad and rotor kit that you want for the best upgrade. They use to have a Z23 Evolution Sport upgrade listed which has the drilled and slotted rotors but I am not seeing that offered any longer might try eBay. The rotors you need are 0.91" (23mm) thickness as the discard minimum. RockAuto has a PowerStop Evolution Geomet Coated kit and that looks to be the highest level of upgrade they are selling.

 

thanks for the numbers. I am only using oem parts for this whole upgrade and unfortunately Toyota posted those rotors as available in later year V6 trucks as well, probably why I got them mixed up. The 23mm might help me out with a parts guy I know at a local dealership, appreciate it!

 

With the help of a parts guy at my local dealership (he’s been working parts at Toyota for about 20 years now) I believe I found the right rotors to pair with the calipers I have. The calipers I’m using, stamped S13WB are correct but the rotors I originally ordered PN 43512-35190 are too thin as I suspected. As stated in an earlier post there is a year cutoff for the thin rotors BUT for some reason Toyota labels the thin and thick as both available even after 91. The correct PN rotor should be 43512-35200 . They will arrive in a few days and I’ll report back to verify.

 

i finished my brake upgrade project today. i finally recieved the correct brake rotors. the correct PN for the large rotors is 43512-35200. btw if anyone needs a NIB set of regular 4 banger rotors hit me up (toyota parts). also something to note, look closely at the brake pads in the picture i posted earlier, its wrong. there are inner and outer pads for this setup. the outer has a single screech peg and the inner pad has double. i will say the steel lines i got from marlin are a little overkill but they sure are pretty. i still have to bleed the system but its all together.

knuckle gasket i was having a hard time finding

the right rotors

new nuts and lock ring

4 banger vs 6 cylinder rotor

in progress..

nice shiny new knuckle gasket and the stock back plates trimming and painted


all together

 

Nice work!

 

Great post. What are your driving impressions?

 

Russel speed bleeders make it a one man show. Get three packages so you get take care of the proportioning valve on the frame.

 

one step ahead of you. although i am now considering swapping to a manual wilwood valve.. its only a matter of time before the stock one starts leaking. havnt made my mind yet

 

OEM LSPV's are still available from Toyota. Not much more than a Willwood manual valve, constantly adjusting, and not a hack fix.

 

i would argue that a wilwood valve is far from a hack fix, but to each their own. i have a riser on my axle housing with the factory valve (to account for suspension lift). i have a wildood manual valve on my 1980 pickup and its great, does not need any adjustment ever.

 

It doesn't need adjustment, but it's only going to work at one bias front to rear. The LSPV is constantly adjusting and accounts for changing loads.

 

true, but most vehicles of that era managed to do just fine without a LSPV. i'm not convinced that it is better or worse, but it for sure is more complicated. more parts and fittings to have corrode, break, or get plugged up.

 

got some new rotors coming for my red '87, courtesy of keycw.

 

I know many people like the manual valves due to the alleged simplicity. I'd argue what's simpler than replacing a part with the same part? The cost difference is slight, you don't have to block off lines, swap the T for an L at that brake line junction block near the front right wheel, and then end up with a less capable system. It surprises me that someone like keycw, who went though the extra effort to use OEM parts where most people wouldn't, would even consider using the manual valve when OEM is available.

 

twice as many long lines along the chassis to corrode, get pinched, and fail. no doubt replacing a faulty LSPV is easier than swapping in another system.

the problem is the overly complex system in the first place.

 

i agree that i am a stickler for oem and i do see the irony. as to the cost, its 42.99 for a wilwood or 153.93 (toyota parts deal) for genuine toyota. every now and again i see an area where oem may not be what i consider the best option. i havnt swapped anything and at this point if the brakes are working fantastic i most likely will not touch the lspv.

 

new rotors in the garage!

 

hey guys. i finished bleeding the system and to say its a night and day difference is an understatement. the trucks stops exponentially better than before. i noticed after bleeding everything that i do have an idle fluctuation when pumping the brakes. i already put in a new check valve and checked the vac hose. all good. looks like ill be doing a booster after all. i have 2 brake boosters in my shop currently. i believe one is from a v6 truck and the other is off of an fj62, its pretty large but i have no clue if the bolting pattern is the same on that one. id like to do some kind of a static vac test on them to make sure theyre good. can i just cap the non used lines and hook up a hand vac pump, apply a few pounds and watch it sit for a few mins? open to suggestions or previous test by guys. the oem boosters are NLA otherwise i would buy one, if anyone was wondering why after all that im using a used booster. and id rather install a used oem than an aftermaket new to be honest.