While crawling around underneath my truck yesterday, I noticed that the ABS brake lines from the modulator to the rear end are extremely rusted. My concern is they may burst while I am “Up North” on vacation next week. So, the question is, can I just remove them -and cap everything off- from both the modulator and proportioning valve (I think that is where they tie in) and essentially just convert it to a non-ABS system for a short time? I realize is will probably through a code or two and would replace everything later, but I just don’t have the capability to perform the repair properly up at the cottage.
What do you think?
Thanks!

 

In otherwords, you're asking if it's o'kay to disconnect the rear brakes ("...non-ABS...")?!?

No sarcasm intended, but do you really need someone other than yourself to answer that for you?

 

No man, that's cool. My FSM is at my fathers and I can’t get there until Tuesday. I thought ABS models had a separate set of lines (a set that go to the modulator, which is located under the battery tray and driven by the PS pump-that much I remember) to perform the ABS pumping function and are tied in at or near the proportioning valve. The reason some cars (most newer models are higher tech-the Runner only uses an electronic speed sensor on the rear diff) have it set up this way is, if the modulator/PS pump fail, they just continue to work as a non-ABS brakes. Maybe they don’t have the second set of lines, that is what/why I am asking. My Apt. is no place to start digging around under the vehicle, but I wanted to get a head start before I got to my dads shop and then ultimately leave for vacation.

Thanks

PS--Toyota refers to it as an " ABS actuator" not modulator

 

I don't know, it just seems that if you somehow bypass the actuator you'll suffer on braking ability and since you're traveling, it's generally a good idea to have them functioning as best as possible.

Why don't you run by NAPA or some sort of autiparts store, by some lines and replace what you need to?

 

Yeah, after considering the options, we are going to take the family sedan. I'll keep the 4Runner close to home until I can get an entire day free and do it properly. I did find where the system ties in, it's on the pass frame rail. In theory I could just cap off the loop to the actuator, but then it's getting really low rent and I don't want to sacrifice any family time on vacation.
I was just throwing out a last ditch idea....
But thanks anyway