Bloer motor/ Fan switch
#1
Blower motor/ Fan switch
Hey everybody... thought I would ask a few questions before I tore my stuff apart....again... I have a 1991 toyota 4x4 4 banger and I just recharged the ac and put another fan switch in... the last few have fried... I left the switch exposed with the radio out ect,,, I also replaced the plug to the switch and pigtailed it in....speeds work fine,,, ac works fine.... but the wires get super hot... with or without the ac on.... I have replaced the blower moter within the last 2 years... can the resistor have anything to do with this? if it goes bad can it ground itself some how? can I just have another bad motor? any suggestions would be great... thank again... I will have my profile and pics in soon
Last edited by herakeles; 06-09-2010 at 06:10 PM.
#2
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Well, I don't know if this will help, but I also have replaced the fan switch in my 1990 Sr5 pickup twice. Both times the third and forth positions quit working. The first time I replaced it with a used switch off of Ebay, the second time I ordered one from the dealer.
Put what I did first of was the "Big 3" but I expanded on it some what.... I ran a 2/0 guage wire from the battery to the starter, a 2/0 wire from the battery to the engine, a 2/0 wire from the engine to the frame, a 2/0 wire from the frame to the chasis, and a #4 wire from the battery to the chasis, and last a #4 wire from the alternator to the battery through a 80 amp fuse block.
Lastly.... what might be the biggest help to you is..... I ran a #6 wire from the battery to the fuse block and added it with the factory wire..... I have installed a manuel amp an volt meter in my pickup and I can turn the high beams on, the fan on high, the emergency flashers on, step on the brakes, and roll down both electric windows at the same time without drawing the volts below 12.2 on the guage....
I think the factory wiring to the fuse block builds up resistence over time and causes the fan to run in the third and forth positions at low voltage to get hot.......I don't know, I am sure there are people on this site that know more than me....but this has worked for my pickup very well.... I will posts some pics if you are interested....
Put what I did first of was the "Big 3" but I expanded on it some what.... I ran a 2/0 guage wire from the battery to the starter, a 2/0 wire from the battery to the engine, a 2/0 wire from the engine to the frame, a 2/0 wire from the frame to the chasis, and a #4 wire from the battery to the chasis, and last a #4 wire from the alternator to the battery through a 80 amp fuse block.
Lastly.... what might be the biggest help to you is..... I ran a #6 wire from the battery to the fuse block and added it with the factory wire..... I have installed a manuel amp an volt meter in my pickup and I can turn the high beams on, the fan on high, the emergency flashers on, step on the brakes, and roll down both electric windows at the same time without drawing the volts below 12.2 on the guage....
I think the factory wiring to the fuse block builds up resistence over time and causes the fan to run in the third and forth positions at low voltage to get hot.......I don't know, I am sure there are people on this site that know more than me....but this has worked for my pickup very well.... I will posts some pics if you are interested....
#3
Thanks .......That definately is an option but I would like to trace down what is going on....and pics would be nice to see.....do you have any of the plug wires from the blower switch in the same year? Anyone else have this problem? I cant be the only one... I just wanna know if it could be the resistor or maybe a little oil in the blower motor might do the trick.... thanks for your help
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