I was unbolting my front swaybar to replace the bushing and the nut welded on the inside of the frame broke loose of its weld so that it is free spinning. I'll cut out the bolt, but I have nothing to attach a replacement bolt too to secure the swaybar bushing mount.

Is a nutsert appropriate? The bolt takes force when the sway bar is twisted (i.e. suspension flexed).

Help!

 

I'm not an expert but I might try and drill the hole out a little larger. If there's a frame plug near you might be able to get a larger diameter nut in there with pliers or a magnet. Thread a bolt through the hole and into the nut to hold it. Weld the new nut in from below.

I'd also wait for a second opinion. Good luck.

Jason

 

Ihave had this happen on my Hondas before. I typically just cut a hole out nearby and attach a wrench too the broken nut to remove the bolt. Then just leave the hole open for future use.

You could seal it back up to prevent rust issue

 

Its actually on a 2003 4Runner, just nobody works on their 4th gens so the guys in that forum aren't good wrenches in general.

The sway bar is around front and this blind nut is on the impact-absorbing section of frame. I'd like not cut it up if possible.

 

I believe then that cutting it out, having someone re weld the nut, then weld and seal the section is your best option

 

Are there any access holes? I would run a bit thru the hole to clean it up. Then with a new nut, granted there's an access hole, attach a long solid rod or tab to the nut. Voila. Bolt it up.

 

No nearby drain holes. Effectively zero access.

I think I'm either going to weld a nut to a piece of 1/8" steel and scab that over the mount or use a rivnut. Probably the latter.

 

The way I have fixed this same problem a few times.

just remove the sway bar.

I then make up a piece for each side drilled and tapped for M8x1.25 weld these in place good to go.

being careful not to over weld if in another 100,000 miles another bolt might break simple matter to cut the piece off and install another.

Never seize is your friend

I not sure if I used 1/4" or 3/8"

 

Just had the same thing happen to my '87, but three of the four broke in the frame. Going to use a Rivnut and see how that goes.

 

This one. Its a pain, but sometimes it what you have to do. I have to do this on one of my tranny cross member bolts...ugh

wyomings idea is pretty slick too. Ill have to remember that one for lighter stuff like a swap bar

 

Can you fish a carriage bolt in there and use a nut on the other side? You'd have to die grind a square in the frame to keep the carriage bolt from turning.

 

I have repaired Cross member nuts in the same manor .

Just cut out the section of frame welded in a plate drilled and tapped

I think there M12 but it has been some time.

Doing it in this manor is the fastest and easiest for me. Plus it then uses the same size hardware.

Nothing worse then needing 4 different sizes tools to remove 4 bolts that were once all the same.

 

I had a similar issue happen in my truck (captive nut in crossmember that holds a skid plate on). What I did was drill the hole out slightly larger, then burn a weld nut in. They are available in a variety of sizes and threads from mcmaster carr

 

Unfortunately, don't have a MIG, so I think rivnut is the easiest solution.

 

update:

installed a rivnut. worked well. used a combination of thread locker, antiseize, an appropriately-sized nut, bolt and some washers. the thread locker keeps the rivnut from moving on the bolt, the antiseize and washers keep the nut as friction-free as possible. the nut travels down the bolt towards the rivnut and collapses it. used a rattle gun to break the thread locker and extract the bolt.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...7703e378ae9129

 

Same problem recently. Installed metal Rivnuts in all four holes. Simple fix and working great.

 

Well, I broke off another blind nut on the other side of the swaybar while removing SB to install new struts.

I now have to track down another effing rivnut of whatever size I used last time...

Those blind nut welds must be all crap.. Good news is that this solution seems to work fine.

 

Wow, matt, youre still alive?!?!?!?!

 

you should post what size you use in your thread here, then you'll have a reference available next time.

 

I'd say "meh" to the rivnut solution. But I know a lot of folks don't have access to a welder. The correct (or more correct, if you want) is to remove and replace what was there from the factory. I personally measure it out first, or make a template, to make sure I get the new nut in the correct position. Then using a slightly larger hole saw (large enough to drop out the old nut) I'll cut out the entire offending piece. Then I make a plug that exact size (same hole saw on new metal plate), then I'll weld a new nut to the new metal plate. Then I'll take that assembly and weld it into the hole I cut out of the frame. Welding over your head is fun!

If you do have to use a rivnut, make sure it's the appropriate one. Meaning, made out of the correct material. Steel rivnut to steel, aluminum to aluminum, stainless to stainless, and so on. You don't want to stick an aluminum rivnut into steel. Not only is it not strong, but the dissimilar metals can react with each other and cause oxidation/corrosion.