Water pump?

 

Have you confirmed coolant flow? I don't know how long you've been in the industry but you should know that new does not in any way mean good. Same with Fel-Pro head gaskets, every Toyota HG failure and one Ford 460 failure I've seen in the past year or two have been Fel-Pro gaskets. Pulling the hoses and finding coolant just means there is coolant there which there should be if the radiator is full.

 

Yeah, I know about the water pump and might not be working thing.

Is the best way to just pull the T-Stat out and run water in the radiator when its running to see if its flowing?

 

The best way would be to warm it up with the cap off and watch the coolant, no diassembly needed. You'll see the coolant swirling in the rad.

Another would be to pull the heater hoses and run them outside the engine bay to a bucket and start the truck since the heater core sees coolant flow regardless of thermostat position.

If you have movement it still sounds like there's an air bubble somewhere, try raising the front of the truck while you burp it.

 

Alright, pretty much what I was thinking, that is one thing I noticed was the coolant not moving in the radiator

 

Also, it was a brand new waterpump from NAPA not a refurb

 

Do you know what mechanic in a bottle was used on the engine before you got to it? Some of that crap will break loose and clog water jackets, I pulled a ranger engine apart once that you could scrape chunks of the stuff out of. K-Seal is the only block sealant that's worth a damn.

 

I don't, nor does the customer.

It was a pasty looking stuff, was gray looking. Was not hard tho.

 

Sounds like Blue Devil, stuff makes a hell of a mess inside an engine.

 

I did back flush the system, have not tried to drive it since. I want to make sure the brand new water pump is working.

 

Tirekid, i think you and i are on the same page thinking the block sealer isn't letting coolant flow through the motor or maybe the water pump is bad. It wouldn't be the first time i've seen that.

Koso1985, in response to my post you went ahead and listed all the things you have been through and the conditions. If you have already done all this next time start your thread with all that information included with the question and go from there. I reccomend checking flow and depending on the result flushing the block or replacing the napa water pump with a toyota pump. If coolant is flowing you will be back to chasing your tail.

 

See, that is what I have been thinking also, the block is plugged up.

However, if that was the case, I would think that when I back flushed the system, it would of shown that condition.

Beside's looking in the radiator for flow when running, how else can I check for a working water pump? Can I just take the thermostat out and run a hose in the radiator and start it and see if its flowing?

 

Here is a update:

Took the Thermostat out, ran the truck with NO thermostat and it ran fine, never over heated, the lower hose was just as warm as the top when I got back.

I picked up a different thermostat from Toyota to try out, put it in, I also got one of the coolant filler kits that was shown in this thread earlier to help with burping, went on the test drive, did not over heat on the free way, drove around 20 miles, turned off the heater and it started to heat up again. WTF is going on?

 

I know this is minor and it is not intended to offend, but do you have the thermostat facing with longer side down into the intake? Otherwise, I'm at a loss.

 

Yes, the longer side is going into the engine.

Also, I did some more testing, I burped the system some more, went out and drove it again, if the heater is on HIGH, it will not over heat, or say its getting hot, but as soon as I turn down or off the heat, the gauge will start making its way to the Hot mark. I pulled over and checked with my infer red thermometer and the upper rad. hose was around 160-172 after driving the truck for around 15 min on the free way, lower hose was around 70 degree's.

Engine block was not hot like the gauge was saying, but warm. I was kinda thinking a bad sending unit for the gauge, but that would not explain why the thermostat won't open. Its like the cooling system is to good and won't let it warm up and open the thermostat or something.

 

LMAO, Burping, what are you feeding a baby, I have never seen so many people have so much trouble doing a simple job like filling a cooling system, and the real kicker is if someone tells them how to do it right, they blow them off and continue to pour expensive coolant all over and accomplish nothing.

 

So what is the " Right way " to do it?

 

 

LOL!

Just trying to get down to the bottom of this.

Any other ideas? It still seems like there is air in the system and its not letting the thermostat open.

 

Double post