For the BJspacer and bracket lift guys a question.
#1
For the BJspacer and bracket lift guys a question.
I have the trailmaster 4inch lift and the shocks are the ones in the kit. Im lloking for more down travel and not as much up so i was wondering if anyone has tried a longer shock. My diff is dropped 4inches so from what i was thinking is i could get a shock a tad longer for more travel because at the point my upper arm hits the down travel stop its at the limits. I still have stock bumpstops for down travel and was going to go low pro on those for a bit more droop but am scared to pop the CV apart or out. I dont think its that close because i havent got it back together(new balljoints will be in today) but from what i can see it could be possible.
Im going to 4wheel parts today with some friends so i thought maybe id grab front shocks and longer brake lines. Any retro fits or maybe part#'s to look at?
thanks guys
Im going to 4wheel parts today with some friends so i thought maybe id grab front shocks and longer brake lines. Any retro fits or maybe part#'s to look at?
thanks guys
#2
I take it you have measured the Trailmaster shock to make sure it won't work? I had a TM lift too but when I made the spacers I was on to air shocks up front which were plenty long so I'm not sure if the TM shocks will work.
I would caution against using low pro bumpstops and spacers together. When I was testing the suspension I could feel the CV starting to bind under this situation. I would just use the spacer for better flex and a larger travel window. You can evaluate your own truck if you like by just removing an upper bumpstop with the spacers installed and trying to spin the hubs by the lug nuts. If you can do that by hand trust, they are not binding.
Also, I would seriously consider up travel enhancements. I had huge travel out of my 4" kit when I made shorter compression bumpstop blocks. You won't use all of that travel when crawling but it sure is nice when you go for a short flight and return to Earth.
Frank
I would caution against using low pro bumpstops and spacers together. When I was testing the suspension I could feel the CV starting to bind under this situation. I would just use the spacer for better flex and a larger travel window. You can evaluate your own truck if you like by just removing an upper bumpstop with the spacers installed and trying to spin the hubs by the lug nuts. If you can do that by hand trust, they are not binding.
Also, I would seriously consider up travel enhancements. I had huge travel out of my 4" kit when I made shorter compression bumpstop blocks. You won't use all of that travel when crawling but it sure is nice when you go for a short flight and return to Earth.
Frank
#3
How much lift do you need/want?
If you've got a 4" kit, you could simply turn your torsion bars down a bit and reduce the lift. This would increase your downward travel...at the expense of your upward.
Low-pro bump stops won't give you much more travel(a bit but not much). I wouldn't bother going with new shocks until you've got the new stops inplace and can actually see what your limiting factors are.
If you've got a 4" kit, you could simply turn your torsion bars down a bit and reduce the lift. This would increase your downward travel...at the expense of your upward.
Low-pro bump stops won't give you much more travel(a bit but not much). I wouldn't bother going with new shocks until you've got the new stops inplace and can actually see what your limiting factors are.
#4
I take it you have measured the Trailmaster shock to make sure it won't work? I had a TM lift too but when I made the spacers I was on to air shocks up front which were plenty long so I'm not sure if the TM shocks will work.
I would caution against using low pro bumpstops and spacers together. When I was testing the suspension I could feel the CV starting to bind under this situation. I would just use the spacer for better flex and a larger travel window. You can evaluate your own truck if you like by just removing an upper bumpstop with the spacers installed and trying to spin the hubs by the lug nuts. If you can do that by hand trust, they are not binding.
Also, I would seriously consider up travel enhancements. I had huge travel out of my 4" kit when I made shorter compression bumpstop blocks. You won't use all of that travel when crawling but it sure is nice when you go for a short flight and return to Earth.
Frank
I would caution against using low pro bumpstops and spacers together. When I was testing the suspension I could feel the CV starting to bind under this situation. I would just use the spacer for better flex and a larger travel window. You can evaluate your own truck if you like by just removing an upper bumpstop with the spacers installed and trying to spin the hubs by the lug nuts. If you can do that by hand trust, they are not binding.
Also, I would seriously consider up travel enhancements. I had huge travel out of my 4" kit when I made shorter compression bumpstop blocks. You won't use all of that travel when crawling but it sure is nice when you go for a short flight and return to Earth.
Frank
ok thanks well at the height the truck will be with it on the down travel bumpstop the shock will be maxed out it maxes out abot the same time the arm hits. i was tryin to squeeze all i could out of it but i dont think i will risk anything with the cv because i felt that thing pop out while working on it and had to pop it back in. What a PITA!
#6
Ok so i see what you mean by the cv angle is off. I got it done and left the Tbars where they were and every hard left with the hubs locked i got a thump thump. I lowered them down more but the front is still really stiff it seems. I ended up blowing a CV boot so i have to replace that after tires.
I wonder if i can drop the diff just a bit more. Maybe shim it so my pinion angle doesnt get any worse.
The shocks ended up about an inch longer then the suspension will go so im ok with that. I will be working on getting the front soft now. For some reason the suspension is really stiff.
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