I have this kit and it comes with a brass bushing to press into the axle behind the axle seal. I am in the process of rebuilding my axle and noticed it popped out into the axle and has been causing the axle to move freely around in the housing. It has been causing the seals to leak and when I turn in a parking lot I can hear the axle move and hit the trunion bearing. My question is.. I obviously probably didn't get the fit on the brass bushing correct when i used a bench grinder to grind it to fit so is there a way to get it to stay in there so I don't have this problem anymore? I looked on yukongear.com and I don't think they sell these kits anymore and can't find any new brass bushings to try to redo it

 

trail gear sells replacement factory-type brass bushings for the front axle, they tapped right into the tg axle housing that i have: http://www.trail-gear.com/product/48...g#.V-at3PArJhE

those have a flange, however, and it looks like the bushings in your kit don't have a flange: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/12...r-kit-install/

i would get longs, or similar, if you can afford it.

did you use shims to center the knuckle housing on the ball? most people re-use the shim stacks just as they came out, when disassembled.

 

The stock ones won't work and the spindle is different too. I don't remember what the stock shims were and I upgraded to the 6 shooter knuckles and put shims in and got the knuckle drag the best I could.. Longs aren't an option for me right now so I will have to figure out some way of getting this kit to work. Maybe I'll try some jb weld and do my best again to get the knuckle centered well

 

i would go back to traditional birfields. I figure if you are gonna run Dana Style shafts, might as well run a dana axles & housing

 

I don't know if running stock shafts with 38s would work

 

I wonder if the stock spindle would work

 

why exactly won't the stock bushings work?

the stock bushing has a flange, which your bushings don't, but you could cut the flange off pretty easily, it's soft brass.

you have a factory toyota mini-truck axle housing, right? so the bushing should slide right in there.

the only thing i would wonder about is the i.d. of the stock bushing, vs. the i.d. of the bushing you have.

can you measure the o.d. of the axle shaft, where it fits in the bushing? using a cheap micrometer from harbor freight, perhaps

i would not use jb weld for this... why did you have to grind down the o.d. of the bushing to get it to fit in the axle housing? sounds like something is wrong.

do an inspection on the inside of the ball, to look for interference marks from the ujoint hitting it.

 

did you put an equal amount of shims, in terms of thickness, on both the top and the bottom? that would be the way to get it centered the best, at least on the ball.

 

In the Yukon birfield eliminator kit it comes with a custom spindle which doesn't use the stock brass bushing. The brass bushing in the kit gets pressed into the axle housing behind the axle shaft oil seal. The brass bushings are bench grind to fit. https://www.yukongear.com/downloads/...inator_kit.pdf

 

I'm considering taking out the whole axle housing and bringing it into a machine shop for them to make new bushings and press them in

 

I guess I should have specified something like the standard longfields etc
http://www.trail-gear.com/product/47...t#.V-fiV_ArJaU
http://www.rcvperformance.com/catego...OYOTA_CV_AXLES

 

edit: here was the reason why i thought that the stock bushing could work in the axle housing https://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/g...l-instructions

see that bushing in the tool set? as i recall, it's an exact duplicate for the stock brass bushing that goes in the spindle, but if you blow up the photo in the instructions, you'll see the bushing placed in the axle housing, in order to center the tool.

however, it's not a press fit, so it wouldn't work... sorry for the confusion.

 

I think I've just decided to get some longfields. This birfield eliminator kit has only given me problems. Anyone wanna buy it? Lol

 

I'm having a new problem. There are metal bushings inside the axle housing that also popped out. I can't get in the driver side one. I got a long metal shaft and pvc joints and tried pounding it back in but it won't seat in. How important are these? Is there another red neck way someone can think of getting these seated back where they need to be? Thank you!

 

You mean the inner axle shaft seal? With the things you've been through with birfield eliminators I'd bet yours need replacing again.Even if just used for test fitting and brand new before test fitting.

 

The part I was talking about can be seen right behind the inner axle shaft seal in this picture. It is a thin metal bushing that is a part of the axle housing. I reassembled it without the passenger side one in because it got bent and would not stay pressed in. Any help would be appreciated!