While driving to work last night the batt. charge and brake light came on. From what I have deduced from here the alt./volt reg. is done. The volt meter in the dash was way up " overcharging "and probably did batt. damage, it boiled over some and this morn. rolling up the power window was slow. My question is I have to drive back home 100miles and was wondering if I stopped along the way to let the batt. cool down would that work maybe? second is if the batt. is completely toast will the truck keep running with just the alt. , and disconnecting the batt. driving in the day no lights.

I have a 1988 4 Runner 3.0 sr5 194,000. Should I buy a new alt. and try to install? If so can one remove the alt from the top on 3.0 it looks like I can, I would rather do in my own garage not in parking lot if possible any special tools needed?

Feedback is appriciated

 

I would not try to drive it. Changing the alternator isn't hard. Bring your battery into the parts store to be tested. Good luck

 

Don`t try driving with it like that, if the battery is actually boiling then the alternator is definatly over charging it and the battery can explode. Replace the alternator before you make your 100 mile drive, and also replace the battery, because if it boiled over its internally damaged, ive had this happen to me before.

 

If you REALLY need to get home you can unplug the alternator (just remove the clip on the back) and just run on battery power to get you home. I have done an 800Km trip on battery power as I wasnt in a position to fix the alt where I was. Just don't use brakes (well only when you HAVE to), headlights etc...oh and jumpstart it dont waste power spinning that starter haha) In your case however your battery is toast so you need to get a new battery and alternator

 

That is kinda what I was thinking do not drive. I am sure the batt. is toasted pretty good also. I have some battery acid water that boiled/ dripped out and won't be too hard to clean up, but full blow out cleanup may really suck. Is the 3.0 1988 runner alt. able to be taken out from the top?? and I have basic socket set and wrenches no out of the ordinary tools needed??

 

I've got mine out right now to put in a high output.

Take the air box out of the engine compartment. First, remove the air tube that goes from the throttle body to the AFM. Then remove the harness connector from the AFM. Remove the two vacuum lines from the pipes on the front of the motor, and then loosen the 3 bolts that hold the air box to the fender well. Pull the air box and the alternator is easy as pie to get in/out and put the wires on/off.

I agree with the above, the best thing to do is replace both now, before the trip.

 

Ok, so I put in my spare alt. I got at the junk yard it was tested ok. $35.00 yea! had it in the back, put it there before winter started. The install was not too difficult like everyone said. Then borrowed a car went to NAPA got a battery and just for the heck of it threw in the "bad" alt to have it tested and it checked out ok.???

So how could my batt. boil??? The "new" alt and batt. seem to work fine, the guage on the dash is about 12-13 v now and at the normal mark, not 18 plus with the batt. and brake light. The batt light and brake light don't come on any more. So could it just of been a bad battery making itself boil?? and should I trust the ok reading on the alt that I removed??