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anyone know the limits of a 22RE? debating a build or swap

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Old 10-05-2007, 11:54 PM
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anyone know the limits of a 22RE? debating a build or swap

debating 22RE build or a 3.4 swap.

whats got to be done to make about 160hp or so with a 22RE?

what RPM will stock 22RE bottoms end roll to.


for a 3.4 swap i was thinking of buying a rolled taco this local here has. what would i still need to buy for the swap?


thanks everyone.
Old 10-06-2007, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by skife
whats got to be done to make about 160hp or so with a 22RE?
Hell has to freeze over.....JK

Seriously, though, I think you could get a turbo, if that's the route you wanna take, otherwise, a 3.4 swap would be expensive, and time consuming, as most swaps are. I'd suggest a buick 3.8 V6 for the job. They have supercharged versions of that motor with 240 Horsepower, and you can get them out of mid 90's Buick Park Avenue's, and Park Avenue Ultra's. I'd look for a totaled one in your local newspaper, and buy the car for parts, which I'm sure you could easily snag for $300-$400. And, there you go, you've got a cheap running supercharged(if that's the one you want) 3.8 buick. But if you don't want to go with the Buick motor, I'll understand. I can say that the 3.8 is a great motor, though.
Old 10-06-2007, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by skife
debating 22RE build or a 3.4 swap.

whats got to be done to make about 160hp or so with a 22RE?

what RPM will stock 22RE bottoms end roll to.


for a 3.4 swap i was thinking of buying a rolled taco this local here has. what would i still need to buy for the swap?


thanks everyone.
A stock bottom end on a 22RE will handle 200hp. The first limitation is the cast pistons. Replace the pistons and you're good for over 300hp. It's a ridiculously stout bottom end. Replace the rods and you're good for over 400.


I've seen one naturally aspirated 22RE that dyno'd over 160hp (wheels) - it was a stroked 2.6L motor over on the Celica forums. It was seriously impacted by a cam change. The dyno run is on my website if you want to see it.


200hp is what i'd consider the stage I of a turbo motor.. Lower the compresson with 22RTE pistons and I've seen dyno runs in the 180-200hp range.


Neither mod is inexpesnive and I'd highly recommend a standalone ECU if you go either way... You're looking at anywhere from $1500-$4000k depending on how much work you can do yourself.
Old 10-06-2007, 09:03 AM
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Swap a cam, get new valve springs/rocker arms etc...That should get you most of the way there. upgrade the injectors and if you want to spend a little more get a complete fuel management system from LCE, as well as ingition system. That'll get you there.

3.4 swap isn't too bad. Gotta get a harness, you can get that from ORS, to mate the 3.4 electronics to the electronics in your truck. If you buy a rolled truck, you'll get everything else you need.
Old 10-06-2007, 09:07 AM
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I would go with the 3.4 for reliability alone. I'd rather have a stock motor with about 200hp, than a little screaming, tapped out 4 banger. Not to say that it isnt reliable, its just a peace of mind thing for me.
Old 10-06-2007, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by AxleIke
Swap a cam, get new valve springs/rocker arms etc...That should get you most of the way there. upgrade the injectors and if you want to spend a little more get a complete fuel management system from LCE, as well as ingition system. That'll get you there.
I don't agree... I've done several cam/ported head and stock bottom end motors. The gains are nice - especially with engnbldr's stuff as he designs it to work in the usable RPM range, but you're really taking 10-15 hp at the rear wheels in most cases.

Injectors don't need to be upgraded until you're doing mods that take you beyond 145 hp or so - the limits of the stock ECU. Otherwise you're throwing money away.


You can port/polish/do whatever to these motors all day long, but you're still flowing air past a fixed size AFM flapper and in most cases a 55mm throttle body. Turbos are different, because they can physically force more air past those bottlenecks.


LC engineering sells SDS. Don't confuse that with their $50 pot that simply manipulates the temp that the ECU sees. SDS is great, easy to tune, but it's not inexpensive.
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