Any specific year for 3.0 block?
06-14-2007, 11:11 AM
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Any specific year for 3.0 block?
Well I used to do SBC's and I know that there were differences in the years despight them being the same general motor. Is there any optimal year to get my junkyard 3.0 like one with better valves from 91-94 or anything like that?
06-14-2007, 11:52 AM
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To be honest i have little experience with the 3.0. I have worked on the 22re and 3.4. I would imagine that you would want a newer engine. While its out i would go ahead and do a little preventative maint. HG, Water pump, belt, ect. I would think the newer the better
06-14-2007, 12:25 PM
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From my unscientific monitoring here... As stated above, it seems 1989 and earlier motors don't have nearly the hg problems that the '91+ motors do. '89 was not part of the HG recall, (but Toyota extended the warranty, just to be safe).
If it were me, I'd go for an '89 or earlier. Mine still runs strong on the original HG (knocking on wood).
Good luck-
-Scubaduck
If it were me, I'd go for an '89 or earlier. Mine still runs strong on the original HG (knocking on wood).
Good luck-
-Scubaduck
06-14-2007, 12:38 PM
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the timming belt tensioner is a function of the fan bracket you put on the block, there is no casting diff.
THe blocks are the same for all 3vz* blocks.
There are diffrences in the water distubution block that bolts on the lower intake at the back of the motor, throttle boddy, type of injectors, distubutor type.... based on year, and options and make (4runner/truck/T100).
but block, pistions, crank, are all the same. (heads are diffrent on 3vz-fe)
this is why even though you can buy a long block, its recomended that you strip it down to a short block and transfer over all your acccessories that came on your truck as they will be correct.
THe blocks are the same for all 3vz* blocks.
There are diffrences in the water distubution block that bolts on the lower intake at the back of the motor, throttle boddy, type of injectors, distubutor type.... based on year, and options and make (4runner/truck/T100).
but block, pistions, crank, are all the same. (heads are diffrent on 3vz-fe)
this is why even though you can buy a long block, its recomended that you strip it down to a short block and transfer over all your acccessories that came on your truck as they will be correct.
Last edited by snap-on; 06-14-2007 at 12:40 PM.
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06-14-2007, 03:37 PM
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Ah so! Alright I'll definatly look into doing that. Save me a few bills in the mean time.
PS: Recommended company for a remanufactured shortblock?
PS: Recommended company for a remanufactured shortblock?
Last edited by Stomis; 06-14-2007 at 03:40 PM.
06-14-2007, 04:10 PM
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Hmmm anyone seen this I found searching on EBAY?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...6127QQtcZphoto
210ft/lb's is ok in my book! Wonder if it need super gas. Has a 7 year warranty though!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...6127QQtcZphoto
210ft/lb's is ok in my book! Wonder if it need super gas. Has a 7 year warranty though!
06-14-2007, 04:16 PM
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Yeah right for the 2 grand I think I'm gonna go for it just because of the warranty. Even if I build a motor and save $500 if I toast another bearing I've got nothing to fall back on like this deal.
06-14-2007, 04:24 PM
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06-14-2007, 04:39 PM
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06-14-2007, 05:00 PM
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Honestly I think its cause of the way the motor is. Its hard to build it for a good curve from what I've read. Thats still gotta be at least 170-180ft/lb's of torque around 2500rpms.
06-14-2007, 05:15 PM
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Well the torque thing could all be in the motor, Im used to SBCs but I know on my 355 in my Camaro, My torque peak was like 386ft/lbs at 3200 RPM where as the stock 305 had a higher rpm torque peak
06-14-2007, 05:21 PM
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you could build a brand new shortblock from EB for like 350 bucks plus whatever a block+machine work would cost....
That would leave a lot of money for head work(IE cams at 350, exhaust/intake valves at 200)
You would be at those same power numbers or better by doing it yourself and not having some jimbronie building your motor. I would PM both sea2skytuning(Johnny w cams) and ENGNBLDR (Ted at enginebuilder) and ask them about your goals.... They will be very informative
That would leave a lot of money for head work(IE cams at 350, exhaust/intake valves at 200)
You would be at those same power numbers or better by doing it yourself and not having some jimbronie building your motor. I would PM both sea2skytuning(Johnny w cams) and ENGNBLDR (Ted at enginebuilder) and ask them about your goals.... They will be very informative
