Any difference between tilt lock cyl. & non tilt lock cyl.?
#21

Sweet! Thanks! I'll ask my buddy, I think he has a puller. Once I get the old column out, when should I pull the wheel and worry about taking out the switch?After I install the new column? My thttp://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:http://www.yotatech.com/get/images/s.../domo2.gifruck is stick, I'm not sure about the donor. I got it from ebay, I will message the seller and see if he knows. It came from an sr5 4runner so I'm assuming it was auto. If he doesn't know is that critical? Thanks again!
"truck is stick, I'm not sure about the donor. I got it from ebay, I will message the seller and see if he knows. It came from an sr5 4runner so I'm assuming it was auto."
The reason I asked is because my 4Runner is a stick and the donor Runner was an auto. There will be an extra box with two wires on it on the upper bracket (the aluminum piece that the key cylinder goes in) that you will not need. It is held on by two screws. Take it off. It must be for the auto to shift only when key is on I would assume. Who knows.
I'm gonna find the FSM pics of the whole thing and send them to you if you like. I'll PM you. Just thought of this.
#24
fyi, i know this thread is older and i don't know if it was mentioned but, i had this thread open because i lost my key, i just called the toyota dealer here in phoenix and he told me for a 94 i could just bring the vin and proof of ownership and they can make a key, forgot to ask the price but i'm sure its cheaper than the 120 plus for a guy to come up and make a key or the 45 bucks plus taking out the pass. front door lock and/or the ign. (if fr-pass door was not marked/stamped as it should be) and taking it/them to a shop in central phoenix (one shop quoted 25 but all the others were at 45) just wanted to pass this info along if it wasn't already. i'll edit when i get the cost of the keying from toyota.
part 2: 5 bucks for two keys, was supposed to be 5 per but apparently two of them had a little competition going and both said the others wouldn't work and take both, upshot is: one works great and the other is so-so, just like the old key was. they looked at the vin, matched up some numbers and pulled out a hand held nibbler type tool, adjusted/set some elongated feeblefetzers and chomped away. 5 minutes tops. i left smiling.
i doubt they'll see this but: thank you again and kudos to the parts guys at bell road toyota in n. phoenix.
part 2: 5 bucks for two keys, was supposed to be 5 per but apparently two of them had a little competition going and both said the others wouldn't work and take both, upshot is: one works great and the other is so-so, just like the old key was. they looked at the vin, matched up some numbers and pulled out a hand held nibbler type tool, adjusted/set some elongated feeblefetzers and chomped away. 5 minutes tops. i left smiling.
i doubt they'll see this but: thank you again and kudos to the parts guys at bell road toyota in n. phoenix.
Last edited by jayt85331; Dec 29, 2011 at 04:53 PM.
#25
I did a tilt wheel swap and had to deal with changing ignition switch's, there the same!!!!
It was a direct swap, the ignition switches are the same in tilt and non-tilt and both parts on the parts site has the same part number on the headless bolted on ignition switch housings that bolt to the column and for the ignition switch's too.
If you have no key to your new used tilt steering, then drill out the brass color pin on the bottom and use vice grips and pull old one out and pop in yours in and when you turn to back to stop it locks in. To remove the no key available old ignition switch, turn it upside down before installing the tilt wheel and start out with small drill bit and take your time and keep getting bigger on drill bits, but it does like to spin a lot (the removal pin) and watch-out you don't enlarge or damage the ignition assembly in any way.
I took out the one piece inside and greased it up real good and was a pain in the tookus, but managed to get it back in the housing and in the housing is a spring loaded button at the bottom that's for the steering lock and has to be pushed in and it locks and the one piece shaft has a nub that sticks out and at the bottom of the housing has a keyway opening when you look in there and that nub that sticks out go into the keyway opening and when you turn-it it hold the one peice shaft so ignition switches can be taken in and out and keeps the one piece shaft from coming out too, and then I put in my old keyed ignition switch. To remove from your old column ignition switch to your new scored tilt is turn to ACC and push the pin underneath.
Any questions send me a PM :}
It was a direct swap, the ignition switches are the same in tilt and non-tilt and both parts on the parts site has the same part number on the headless bolted on ignition switch housings that bolt to the column and for the ignition switch's too.
If you have no key to your new used tilt steering, then drill out the brass color pin on the bottom and use vice grips and pull old one out and pop in yours in and when you turn to back to stop it locks in. To remove the no key available old ignition switch, turn it upside down before installing the tilt wheel and start out with small drill bit and take your time and keep getting bigger on drill bits, but it does like to spin a lot (the removal pin) and watch-out you don't enlarge or damage the ignition assembly in any way.
I took out the one piece inside and greased it up real good and was a pain in the tookus, but managed to get it back in the housing and in the housing is a spring loaded button at the bottom that's for the steering lock and has to be pushed in and it locks and the one piece shaft has a nub that sticks out and at the bottom of the housing has a keyway opening when you look in there and that nub that sticks out go into the keyway opening and when you turn-it it hold the one peice shaft so ignition switches can be taken in and out and keeps the one piece shaft from coming out too, and then I put in my old keyed ignition switch. To remove from your old column ignition switch to your new scored tilt is turn to ACC and push the pin underneath.
Any questions send me a PM :}
#26
I'm hoping to do it this week. I had a blood clot and I've been on light duty. My doctor just cleared me, and my buddy lent me his steering wheel puller so I should be good. I'm starting to get excited about fixing my truck again! I just replaced the driver's door with a junkyard piece that's rust free. I got one for the passenger side too. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
#27
I did a tilt wheel swap and had to deal with changing ignition switch's, there the same!!!!
It was a direct swap, the ignition switches are the same in tilt and non-tilt and both parts on the parts site has the same part number on the headless bolted on ignition switch housings that bolt to the column and for the ignition switch's too.
If you have no key to your new used tilt steering, then drill out the brass color pin on the bottom and use vice grips and pull old one out and pop in yours in and when you turn to back to stop it locks in. To remove the no key available old ignition switch, turn it upside down before installing the tilt wheel and start out with small drill bit and take your time and keep getting bigger on drill bits, but it does like to spin a lot (the removal pin) and watch-out you don't enlarge or damage the ignition assembly in any way.
I took out the one piece inside and greased it up real good and was a pain in the tookus, but managed to get it back in the housing and in the housing is a spring loaded button at the bottom that's for the steering lock and has to be pushed in and it locks and the one piece shaft has a nub that sticks out and at the bottom of the housing has a keyway opening when you look in there and that nub that sticks out go into the keyway opening and when you turn-it it hold the one peice shaft so ignition switches can be taken in and out and keeps the one piece shaft from coming out too, and then I put in my old keyed ignition switch. To remove from your old column ignition switch to your new scored tilt is turn to ACC and push the pin underneath.
Any questions send me a PM :}
It was a direct swap, the ignition switches are the same in tilt and non-tilt and both parts on the parts site has the same part number on the headless bolted on ignition switch housings that bolt to the column and for the ignition switch's too.
If you have no key to your new used tilt steering, then drill out the brass color pin on the bottom and use vice grips and pull old one out and pop in yours in and when you turn to back to stop it locks in. To remove the no key available old ignition switch, turn it upside down before installing the tilt wheel and start out with small drill bit and take your time and keep getting bigger on drill bits, but it does like to spin a lot (the removal pin) and watch-out you don't enlarge or damage the ignition assembly in any way.
I took out the one piece inside and greased it up real good and was a pain in the tookus, but managed to get it back in the housing and in the housing is a spring loaded button at the bottom that's for the steering lock and has to be pushed in and it locks and the one piece shaft has a nub that sticks out and at the bottom of the housing has a keyway opening when you look in there and that nub that sticks out go into the keyway opening and when you turn-it it hold the one peice shaft so ignition switches can be taken in and out and keeps the one piece shaft from coming out too, and then I put in my old keyed ignition switch. To remove from your old column ignition switch to your new scored tilt is turn to ACC and push the pin underneath.
Any questions send me a PM :}
I'm hoping to do it this week. I had a blood clot and I've been on light duty. My doctor just cleared me, and my buddy lent me his steering wheel puller so I should be good. I'm starting to get excited about fixing my truck again! I just replaced the driver's door with a junkyard piece that's rust free. I got one for the passenger side too. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
To everyone else, I still plan on doing a thread on my tilt column swap as I took pics during the entire job to help out those less inclined to tackle the job as it is a fairly simple job and can be done by relatively inexperienced people. If there is someone who reads this and wants to let me know that they would like to see the swap thread, please let me know. I'm very busy with a new baby on the way also and I am getting used to a new shift at work as well. Just let me know peeps.
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