ANOTHER code 71 question
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ANOTHER code 71 question
ok, before everyone gets mad.... please bare with me. I have read and read and read... I bought my 95 4runner 3.slo last monday. 12 miles after I left the dealer the check engine light came on. code 71/egr
Okay, although its a lot of money im going to just spend the 134.99 and buy a new one.
but today while driving it, the temp shot up to red, and oil down to low. my rig has oil and coolant so i am confused. can the egr valve cause the rig to over heat or is it all in the computer????
I "symptoms" the 4runner has is only when it first starts up. kinda bogs out and with a little pressure on the gas peddle it idles fine and drives fine. little more guttles but fine.
Okay, although its a lot of money im going to just spend the 134.99 and buy a new one.
but today while driving it, the temp shot up to red, and oil down to low. my rig has oil and coolant so i am confused. can the egr valve cause the rig to over heat or is it all in the computer????
I "symptoms" the 4runner has is only when it first starts up. kinda bogs out and with a little pressure on the gas peddle it idles fine and drives fine. little more guttles but fine.
#2
No, the EGR valve is not the cause of the overheating. Overheating could, however, be the cause of the low oil pressure.
If you're thinking it could be that the EGR valve is sticking open(which would cause the code 71 and the other symptoms described), why not try cleaning it before replacing it? Who knows? A $3 can of brake cleaner might just save you ~$130. I'd be giving it a noble attempt atleast if I were you.
If you're thinking it could be that the EGR valve is sticking open(which would cause the code 71 and the other symptoms described), why not try cleaning it before replacing it? Who knows? A $3 can of brake cleaner might just save you ~$130. I'd be giving it a noble attempt atleast if I were you.
Last edited by MudHippy; 07-18-2011 at 10:42 AM.
#4
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I'm currently dealing with the code 71 as well... Check your vacuum lines and make sure they're all in their correct places. If they're all good. Check the wires on your EGR Temp sensor. If they're cut in anyway ( like mine were ) it'll toss a code and give major power loss. you can always try cleaning the EGR as well. There's nothing cheap about the EGR system. I just had to spent 129.10 for a new sensor... and then a EGR valve is like another 135 from rock auto. Hope this helps.
Not sure how to answer your low oil pressure. It sounds like your truck is having the powerloss/pinging issue that i was having before that. and it was timing / vacuum related. I would definitely retime it for peace of mind. Also, check your TPS. I had code 7 and 71, bought a new TPS and everything was solved as far as power loss.
Not sure how to answer your low oil pressure. It sounds like your truck is having the powerloss/pinging issue that i was having before that. and it was timing / vacuum related. I would definitely retime it for peace of mind. Also, check your TPS. I had code 7 and 71, bought a new TPS and everything was solved as far as power loss.
Last edited by MaK92-4RnR; 07-18-2011 at 10:37 AM.
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alight thank you everyone for your comments and help. I ended up taking it in for a certified mechanics opinion.
the EGR Is bad!
But according to him and the other mechanics at toyota, they said that because it is bad that it is simply not doing anything besides throwing a check engine light. Now, if it was working and working impropperly then I would be needing to replace it because of the bad idle and temp issues.
Now, why my rig was running the way it was.
1ST off, I changed out the plugs and wires. wow! two of the wires werent even completely plugged into the plugs. and
2ND off, one of the plugs wasnt even firing!
so, now that this is fixed I am running much better.
oh- for those of you wanting to replace your EGR valve. Look for a used one that works. I was told they either work or they dont. doesnt matter how many miles they have on them as long as they are functioning and free of carben.
the EGR Is bad!
But according to him and the other mechanics at toyota, they said that because it is bad that it is simply not doing anything besides throwing a check engine light. Now, if it was working and working impropperly then I would be needing to replace it because of the bad idle and temp issues.
Now, why my rig was running the way it was.
1ST off, I changed out the plugs and wires. wow! two of the wires werent even completely plugged into the plugs. and
2ND off, one of the plugs wasnt even firing!
so, now that this is fixed I am running much better.
oh- for those of you wanting to replace your EGR valve. Look for a used one that works. I was told they either work or they dont. doesnt matter how many miles they have on them as long as they are functioning and free of carben.
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