declipse

I have done some searching and think I have an answer, but i sure wouldn't mind confirmation.

I have a 94 v6 pickup, manual. Yesterday, getting off i-5 in Seattle, I could shift gears on the exit ramp. By the time I get a block to the next light, i can't shift. It seems my clutch was not disengaging completely and binding up the synchros. I get it to a parking lot by putting it in second (shifting to second by turning the engine off). Second is such a versitale gear. I have fluid in the resiviour, and appear to be getting decent movement at the slave cylinder. I adjusted the push rod behind the pedal and then it worked. Clutch engaged much farther into the pedal stroke (farther from floor), but more importantly it disengaged when i pushed the pedal in. This got me home.

This morning when heading to work it did the same thing. A great way to start a monday. I can't adjust the push rod anymore to get the clutch to disengage, but i am not sure that really affects the location of the clutch disk anyway, just the pedal engagement position.

The pedal mount bracket does not appear to be cracked. I haven't heard any grinding, and the clutch hasn't been slipping. This all happened pretty much not warning. I do have nearly 90k on this clutch though.

My guess is the clutch disc, pressure plate, and bearings need replaced. Is that what you guys think? Am i missing something obvious? I have never torn into a clutch before. If that stuff does need replaced, how do the kits from wabfab, marlin crawler, or even napa compare? Previous owner had replaced the clutch twice, ground the flywheel twice. Is it likely to need to be replaced now as well? It is a daily driver, so it has to be good for the street, but i want some life and the ablity to be able to slip it over some rocks periodically.

Thanks.
Dave

Jay351

It sounds like your clutch is gone. Hopfally a few more guys will chime in with their thoughts.

for clutches, I would go with a marlin unit, I LOVE mine. 1200ftlbs of clamping force and the pedal is still very soft

And I would also buy the marlin shifter socket and bushing, for under 20 bucks you can't go wrong.

You can also buy a flywheel from them

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

bleed the system and see if that helps. clutch jobs are not hard just time consuming.

declipse

I will try to bleed it tonight. I just seems wierd that it needs to be bled, since i didn't do anything to they system, not sure how it could work in an air bubble.

Jay, by shifter socket and bushing are you refering to the shift lever seat? i replaced mine a couple years ago with a factory one. (the seat anyway)

Thanks guys.

Squeebs

Ya, two days outside of your house on the asphault.


Factor in no tranny jack.


And then using your step dads tacoma to actually pull the unit away because it has 15 years of gunk on it.


Yup.

Easy.

declipse

i may rent a tranny jack. Or i may figure out how to utilize my floor jack. It hasn't let me down yet. At least I have a garage to work in and don't have to do this out in the rain.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

rent a tranny jack. i have a cheap harbor freight tranny jack, and it make it a lot easier. i did have to weld some supports on it to keep it from flaring out when i torqued the strap down good and tight.

thook

You can get adapters for your floor jack depending on how big it is and how it's designed. I just made one for mine. Quite simple.

Take a flashlight and peak inside the bellhousing where the clutch fork enters. See if the the tangs on the pressure plate are damaged.

In any event, it sounds like the springs are worn out. Time for new clutch. Maybe flywheel, too. Depends on the wear tolerance. WabFab, Marlin, Centerforce are good. NAPA may be, also. I've never used one.

Jay351

Yep, the shifter lever seat and the bushing that goes on the end, the marlin unit is made of a hard plastic, it out lasts the oem style and makes for VERY nice shifts Ask any of the guys who have installed it, they will recomend it

And if you are indeed doing the clutch, get the tranny jack. We used a floor jack and it was a royal pain.

declipse

Thanks for the advice.

Thook, having never used a transmission jack, i am not exactly sure how an adapter should look for my transmission, or what is so special about it vs a floor jack. Do you have a picture of your adapter? i have a 3 1/2 ton craftsman pro jack. I believe i can remove the little pumpkin holder and put something else on that surface pretty easily.

black diamond

floor jack will work for removal, but for instal i would rent a tranny jack for cheap$ and save on some fustration w shaft alignment, has to be ligned up perfect or u will damage pilot bearing. good luck.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I vote for WabFab as he is a great guy.

Any of the after market clutches will be fine but I would stick with an OEM style for one that is a dd.

I have a stock clutch in my 85 and once on the trail rarely shift out of 1st or 2nd so no need for all that HD stuff for me. Depends on driving style and personal feel preference I guess.

declipse

once on the trail i don't shift out of 1st or 2nd much either, however, i do need to be able to slip it so i don't fly over boulders and rip my undercarriage apart (something i am opposed to doing). By OE style i assume you mean 900lb p plate? does the heavier p. plate just make it harder to slip when fully engaged? do the "heavy duty" clutches last longer with a little slipping for speed control on rocks?

Also, i am guessing i will need to replace my flywheel as it has been resurfaced twice already. Is there an aftermarket world of flywheels i should be looking into? or is pretty much everything the same version of stock with different names?

mith

Since I'm in the market for a new clutch and have been shopping around, how would WabFab's standard clutch set (for an '87 4Runner SR5, 22RE, in this case) compare with Marlin's "Heavy Duty" clutch, aside from saving me $30 +/- shipping?

KevinInSac

I got a OEM clutch, P-Plate, and flywheel from NAPA. In all it was $180 for the kit and $70 for the Flywheel.

Took me 4-5 nights to get it done. I almost attempted to pull the tranny with the floor jack. But I was sure happy that I opted for the $200 tranny jack from Harbor Freight instead.

thook

Just do a google search on transmission adapters and you'll see what they look like. I fashioned one according to ones I'd seen that way.

Sorry...no pics. I used it and scrapped it shortly thereafter. I made it out of a heavy piece of plywood, four strong 90* shelf brackets screwed to that, and a socket of appropriate size bolted to the center of the wood so it would sit in the hole where the jack's saddle would normally fit. Once I had the jack raised up to the tranny, I used a couple of ratchet straps to secure the unit to the transmission. This was effective enough to keep the transmission upright instead of toppling over towards either side. I kept it level enough lengthwise by positioning the lift point in just the right spot underneath where the weight of the transfer case and transmission was balanced.The only real issue I had was not so much lining the input shaft up with the pilot bearing, rather it was leveling the tranny inline with the motor and splines in the clutch plate assembly so that the input shaft would actually mate up. But, there was enough play in my homebrew adapter where it mated to the jack so that I could manipulate the positioning and leveling of the transmission. Also, I used a bottle jack under the motor block to raise the motor's angle up and down. With friend's extra hands and eyes, we had in mated correctly in about 10min's. This was after having struggled with it trying to do it solo for two days prior. I should mention I also used a ratchet strap fastened at one end to the front axle housing and the other end on the jack. It kept tension pulling the transmission towards the motor so that once we had it lined up just right the shaft slid right into the hole. Orgasm....without any damage to the pilot bearing or anything else. Well....maybe a knuckle or three, but any good mating process should incur a little blood. Keeps things interesting. Don't get overly concerned about damaging anything. I mean there is the possibility, but as long as you're being mindful there's really nothing to worry about.

I bought Marlin's 1200lb clutch kit plus the shifter seat and bushing and, from another source, some magic juice....Redline's MT-90 gear oil. Made my transmission very happy. (You might consider doing a search on the MT-90) The clutch was a decision base on my applications; hauling and towing. The extra pressure was a boon, but my wife doesn't care for the stiffness too much. Something to factor in to your equation when deciding. It is quite noticeable over the OEM 900lb.

The thing that seperates a transmission jack from using a floor jack is that you have the ability to pivot the angle of the trans. in relation the motor. It's a must to be able to do so, but as you've read I was able to without. I chose that option mainly because I only had so much money at the time. On the other hand, I couldn't really see paying a lot of money (within my financial scope) for something I wouldn't be using very often. If you have the money and find it prudent, I'd say get one....either an adapter or t-jack. Otherwise, it is entirely doable without one.

declipse

Last night my brother and a friend came over and we pulled the transmission using a floor jack. It wasn't too bad with 3 people. I can see how installing it may be easier with a transmission jack though. It went pretty smooth except for finding that last bolt... the one in from the front on the starter. But after that smooth sailing.

We found the problem. One of those plastic? spring retainers on the clutch plate was no longer retaining the spring. 1/2 was rattling around in it's little home, while the other 1/2 had ventured out and started exploring the area within the pressure plate. I think that probably causes all sorts of trouble. The through out bearing doesn't feel very bearing like either, it is a little rough.

The rear main seal looks good, but i will figure out how to replace it while i am in there. It looks like i have a small leak out of the head gasket on the driver side. I will explore that further when i get under it again. It isn't a big leak, i don't loose much oil. Maybe a drip or two on the ground after running for some time, and my levels don't drop fast. Is it safe to put in some stop leak stuff into my oil? Do those treatments work? I don't particularly want to tear down the top of my engine right now to do that. I am not harming anything other than releasing a little oil into the environment right?

Thanks everybody

thook

Leaking a "headgasket" or a valve cover gasket? If it's the headgasket, you will definitely need to tear it down before you can drive it again.

ZukiRunner

wow old thread sorry

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

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