air intake mods
Feb 25, 2009 | 12:18 PM
#21
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From: middle of no where Alaska
Thats because no air is being drawn through the Air Flow Meter which, among other things, tells the ECU to turn on/off the fuel pump.
Feb 25, 2009 | 12:23 PM
#23
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From: Sparta, Kentucky
You shouldnt have to adjust the timing i put alot of intakes on and never had to. The reson why it dies when you take the tube off the TB is because the mass air flow sensor is not picking any thing up so there for it dies.
Feb 25, 2009 | 01:10 PM
#25
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From: Texas
Haha. I already PMed him, and I know this has been explained before because I have posted it before 
But I don't mind doing it again.
This is to my understanding and anyone can correct me if I'm wrong.
PAIR stands for Pulse Air Injection....I think the "R" stands for Reaction, can't remember. Anyways, it is part of emissions. It goes from the air box after the air filter through the hose that you mentioned, to the reed valve, which, like most valves, allows air/water/whatever to pass through one way, but not come back the other. From the reed valve it snakes around the rear of the engine in the copper looking tube to the top of the exhaust manifold (on the 22re). The venturi effect of the exhaust gases cause clean air to be pulled into the exhaust which speeds up oxidation in the catalytic converter on start up and idle.
But I don't mind doing it again.This is to my understanding and anyone can correct me if I'm wrong.
PAIR stands for Pulse Air Injection....I think the "R" stands for Reaction, can't remember. Anyways, it is part of emissions. It goes from the air box after the air filter through the hose that you mentioned, to the reed valve, which, like most valves, allows air/water/whatever to pass through one way, but not come back the other. From the reed valve it snakes around the rear of the engine in the copper looking tube to the top of the exhaust manifold (on the 22re). The venturi effect of the exhaust gases cause clean air to be pulled into the exhaust which speeds up oxidation in the catalytic converter on start up and idle.
Thanks for the clarification! Now I know that when I do my intake mods I'll be adding a hose from the new filter to the reed valve.
Feb 25, 2009 | 01:19 PM
#26
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From: middle of no where Alaska
Of course
Doing the Supra AFM again? If you don't run a hose from the air box, you can add a filter onto the resonator like in the picture 894x4pickup posted. Unless you have to get it emission tested...then IDk if that will work (visual)
Doing the Supra AFM again? If you don't run a hose from the air box, you can add a filter onto the resonator like in the picture 894x4pickup posted. Unless you have to get it emission tested...then IDk if that will work (visual)
Last edited by toyota4x4907; Feb 25, 2009 at 01:20 PM.
Feb 25, 2009 | 03:15 PM
#28
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From: Texas
As far as emissions go I'll be taking the truck to the smog nazis in a few months and we'll see how it does. I really think that those folks see so many vehicles that the won't know the difference in stock stuff and altered, just as long as I don't have a Yota nut doing the testing. Hell my truck passed with flying colors with the EGR plated off the first time around.
Feb 25, 2009 | 03:48 PM
#29
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From: LA
Feb 25, 2009 | 04:25 PM
#30
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From: Lake City, Fl
I don't want to even get into the 22re intake mods... about the only thing is will do is make it sound kinda cool under acceleration...
unless you do the intake/battery swap, then at least the air's not heated by the radiator...
btw, I'm not just flapping my jaw, I speak from experience... some of you may know about my setup...
unless you do the intake/battery swap, then at least the air's not heated by the radiator...
btw, I'm not just flapping my jaw, I speak from experience... some of you may know about my setup...
Mar 26, 2009 | 07:28 AM
#31
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From: Just North of Pittsburgh
So I'm bringing an older thread back to life for a moment...
I plan on doing the intake and bat swap real quick like. I do have a different intake on now and a cone. The PAIR valve is coming off the intake now instead of before the AFM dose this make a difference? Should I get one of those little filters for it, where would I find one? How about if I just cork it off, what would that do.
I'll try to have some pictures this weekend, just have not gotten there yet.
I plan on doing the intake and bat swap real quick like. I do have a different intake on now and a cone. The PAIR valve is coming off the intake now instead of before the AFM dose this make a difference? Should I get one of those little filters for it, where would I find one? How about if I just cork it off, what would that do.
I'll try to have some pictures this weekend, just have not gotten there yet.
Mar 26, 2009 | 07:36 AM
#32
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From: LA
So I'm bringing an older thread back to life for a moment...
I plan on doing the intake and bat swap real quick like. I do have a different intake on now and a cone. The PAIR valve is coming off the intake now instead of before the AFM dose this make a difference? Should I get one of those little filters for it, where would I find one? How about if I just cork it off, what would that do.
I'll try to have some pictures this weekend, just have not gotten there yet.
I plan on doing the intake and bat swap real quick like. I do have a different intake on now and a cone. The PAIR valve is coming off the intake now instead of before the AFM dose this make a difference? Should I get one of those little filters for it, where would I find one? How about if I just cork it off, what would that do.
I'll try to have some pictures this weekend, just have not gotten there yet.
-Cone Filter with lots of hose clamps (the screw kind)
-3" hose. I use the adjustable. If you have money get the solid metal / plastic kind.
-AFM to Filter attachment. Bring your AFM gasket to get the sizing right. Its a tight fit, and be ready to machine it (drill press) to get the holes right.
That should be it. In total, is $60-$70 bucks. You can go cheaper or more expensive (K&N kit) but i am happy with my intake.
Mar 26, 2009 | 07:45 AM
#33
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From: Just North of Pittsburgh
Ok thank you. I already got the intake it's going across the rad and I don't like how it's setup. I saw a thread earlier on the 82 AFM swap from Junkers and that the intake was on the opposite side...now that's a good idea!! (I thought to me self) I'll just cut the pipe down instead of fighting with the ebay guy, it's about 5" too short any way. I'll stop at PepBoys and grab a little filter. So i should not plug the PAIR then?
Mar 26, 2009 | 10:00 AM
#34
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
If doing the intake/battery swap, don't forget you need a battery tray to mount the battery in the other side. This is the only thing stopping me so far. I had everything swapped over and realized the battery would be sliding around. Not a good thing to drag your batter behind you on the interstate.
Mar 26, 2009 | 10:19 AM
#35
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From: Just North of Pittsburgh
I'm wondering if you can modify the bottom of the old air cleaner? I think the battery should fit in that. Then all you'll need is a bungee cord to hold it down for the time being. I don't recall how the battery is held in place. I've only had mine for a few months and can't recall how it's all together. I think making tray out of the air cleaner would work and then make a bracket out of some all thread or something like that.
Then all you'll need is a bungee cord to hold it down for the time being. I don't recall how the battery is held in place. I've only had mine for a few months and can't recall how it's all together. I think making tray out of the air cleaner would work and then make a bracket out of some all thread or something like that.
Mar 26, 2009 | 10:25 AM
#36
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From: Texas
Do not use a bungy cord! I am so not kidding.
Ok if you look at the factory hold down on the pass side youll see that it's attached to the radiator support (cross member where the hood latch is located) with a 10mm or 12mm bolt. Look on the other side and you'll see the same threaded hole in the same location, this is so in a diesel you can install two batteries. When you swap the battery over you can drill a small hole in the inner fender in which to insert the "catch" (fish hook looking thing on the battery hold-down) and attach the rest of the hold-down to the cross member. I didnt' even use a tray since my Red Top came with a plastic tray in the package but you can buy an aftermarket tray (I think).
That description may not make a bunch of sense but when you go look at your rig you'll unsderstand.
Ok if you look at the factory hold down on the pass side youll see that it's attached to the radiator support (cross member where the hood latch is located) with a 10mm or 12mm bolt. Look on the other side and you'll see the same threaded hole in the same location, this is so in a diesel you can install two batteries. When you swap the battery over you can drill a small hole in the inner fender in which to insert the "catch" (fish hook looking thing on the battery hold-down) and attach the rest of the hold-down to the cross member. I didnt' even use a tray since my Red Top came with a plastic tray in the package but you can buy an aftermarket tray (I think).
That description may not make a bunch of sense but when you go look at your rig you'll unsderstand.
Mar 26, 2009 | 02:31 PM
#39
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From: Texas
Most 4x4 clubs have specific by-laws against using bungee anything on a battery since they tend to let go when the rig goes into a roll. Too many sparks and spilling fuel may cause some minor issues.
