WCorbett

Go with an ARB in the rear and a LSD in the front. Dont skimp on lockers cuz of money.

lexrunner

ANY LSD will have a one wheel wonder if one wheel is in the air, thats the difference with lockers, and LSD's. For snow, and the occasional wheel, and not much in hardcore rocks, I would go LSD's front and rear, MUCH better than lockers, for the snow, as they are cheaper, less noisy, and more predictable. Go with Aubern cone style LSD's, better than clutch packs.

04 Rocko Taco

Selectable in the rear, an open in the front, for now, it at some point you want to get into the front locker, then pick up an dARb for slectability up front, or SAS and put in an elocker. lol. Lock the rear and you'll be surprised what your truck can do like that.

tc

too bad auburn doesn't make stuff for Toyotas

I have ARB's front and rear and will never use anything else on a vehicle that sees snowy roads.

04 Rocko Taco

I plan to go elockers front and rear, and I have NO snow. lol

GV27

I plan on doing a True-Trac in the rear and an ARB in the front for exactly that reason. My truck is my DD for most of the year (fall and spring I drive my Alfa a lot) and I like it to perform. I don't do THAT hard of wheeling - I very rarely go wheeling to test out what kind of hardcore trail I can conquer but rather to go camping where there are no other people, get to good gold prospecting spots, explore old mines, etc. So I figure a True-Trac will help out my truck in the snow in the winter, gravel in the spring, rain in the summer and fall, etc. And help out at least a little when off road. Then when I do get into one of those situations where I'm rocking back and forth with a rear off and a front off I can hit the button on the ARB, use the e-brake trick for the True-Trac and get myself across that section. Plus I reckon with IFS I'll end up lifting a front way more often that I lift a rear.

I have wheeled in the past with both in the rear (obviously not at the same time - LOL) and a push-button locker really kicks butt off-road but a True-Trac is not bad. I think people get pissed off at them and call them worthless because when they help they help so seamlessly that you don't really notice it but it's pretty obvious when you have a wheel off the ground and it's not working. People who get one knowing what they're getting and what to expect out of it are happy with them. People who are thinking they're getting a more flexible auto-locker won't be happy. Simple as that.

True-Trac is a Torsen type diff and pretty sweet. Smooth, silent, and strong LSD action.

dirtpup

do a lock right in the front and just get a limited slip for the rear end and be done with it its less wear on the drive train doing to lockers will eventually put a lot of stress on the drive train been there and done that thats what i have in my yota and my friends yoat and in my brothers 4runner they are cheap and work verry well never have failed me at all

CJM

I am still waiting to try the powertrax no slip. Its an entire different kind of locker that apparently is very streetable.

http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/no-slip/review/?

GV27

Yeah, but a lock-right up front is gonna suck big-time in the Calgary snow.....

notanymore

i have a lockrite in the rear and i drive in the snow, it take some getting used to and when on ice i have to use 4wd, when it 2 it can be a bit scary taking corners (first time i drove it on ice was in a parking lot and almost did a 180 going about 5mph) but its not that bad in 4wd.

4rnr

This is simple.

You have to run a selectable locker front and back if you want to maintain the on road manners while in the snow.

However, I suggest running a auto locker out back and open in the front, you will get used to driving with it and it soon it will be less noticable than mud tires (very scary in the snow if they arent siped!)

saitotiktmdog

Yeah. I have a quick lock int the rear of my truck and I don't even try to drive in snow in two wheel drive. Rear end slides around way too much. Not too many problems in four but in some cases it slides from side to side instead of going forward. Will take some getting used to. I would start with a simple locker in the back and use that for a while and save up some cash and then get something good for the front.

sh0kk86

since i live in phx i never drive in 4wd on the street.

i plan on elocker up front and arb in rear.

reason i want elocker up front is because ive rode in many locked front trucks wheeling, and it definately loses its tight turning radius with it locked, so in tight situations it would be nice to just flip the switch and unlock it.

reason for not going arb in front is that i wouldnt want the compressor always going off. is this a stupid reason? should i put arb in front elocker in rear?

i want selectable lockers since its still my dd for another year or so.

Hayes

Just go ARB front and rear if you are going selectable. You already have the compressor for the rear so it won't be anymore annoying than the rear...

tc

The compressor doesn't run much at all if you take the time during the install to ensure you don't have leaks.

ARB locks and unlocks MUCH faster than elocker

RobD

Snow? What snow? We haven't had snow in weeks and what we do have is nearly gone. I usually encounter the snow in the Rockies.

RobD

I'm just going to say screw it and go with ARB front and rear, starting with the rear first.

Seems like the best, but not cheapest, way. Oh, well, sometimes you gotta drop a couple bucks now and then.

AxleIke

I have the mini compressor. It is the smallest one.

I can charge my compressor, turn on both lockers, and let the truck sit for 8 hours, and the compressor will NEVER come on.

I have run trails where I've wheeled for 6 hours straight, never dissengaged the rear locker, and the compressor will only kick on for a few seconds about ever 3rd charge of the front locker.

tc

Take solace that the expense only hurts once, where the poor performance of the cheaper solution hurts constantly...

Hayes

Ha Ha, that's funny. And oh so true!