I have an adjustable cam gear and I'm wanting to advance it a degree or two, and I just need to be sure how to do it. Can anyone help me??
Thanks,
Hawk4295

 

http://www.lcengineering.com/Inst/1022003_1022009.htm

 

So in other words, loosen the 3 cam gear nuts and turn the crank till my zero mark is at 1 degree or 2 degree? is that right?

Hawk4295

 

I am pretty sure a degree on the cam equals 2 degree's on the crank. It would be best to go though the cam timing process as described by LCE.

 

The cam spins at 1/2 engine speed so like tlake said, "a degree on the cam equals 2 degree's on the crank....". But don't confuse cam and crankshaft degrees. If someone suggests advancing the cam 3 degrees, that means exactly was said: the cam is advanced 3 degrees not the crankshaft.

Using a dial gauge and degree wheel on the camshaft is the most accurate way to figure your advance once you've correctly set the adjustable gear to 0. Since LCE suggests the degree wheel on the crank, slop in the timing chain and pressure exerted by valve springs (which can move the cam) are potential issues using their method, so I'll leave that error to them and recommend you follow their directions.

Set up the cam gear like LCE suggests including lining up dowel and everything. That should get you in the ball park. Advancing the cam gear will move the powerband down the RPM range (since intake and exhaust events occur sooner in relation to crankshaft / piston motion) and conversely retarding (delaying) the cam gear will move the powerband up the RPM range.

Be sure to check and re-set the timing whenever you adjust the cam since the distributor is driven off the camshaft and you will be moving the camshaft any time you adjust its timing.

Keep in mind that the 22R/RE engines are "interference" engines so if you advance or retard the camshaft too far the pistons WILL HIT THE VALVES. I cannot tell you how much advance or retard you can dial in before that happens since engines may be in different states of wear, may have non-stock pistons and rotating the engine by hand does not include or simulate the effects of piston slap or wrist-pin wear.

Finally, you will not make much if any more power than if the cam were not degreed in but the butt dyno may perceive an increase due to the power band moving to a more appropriate RPM range for your driving habits / style.

 

^^ sweet info