Hey all, I just picked up a front diff out of a 93 truck w/5.29's and a true-trac. This diff has ADD on it but my wifes truck is an 89 V-6 without ADD. Will this diff work in hers if I just leave all the ADD stuff disconnected. I've never dealt with the ADD system before and need some info before I go to swap out the diffs. Please help. Thanks.

 

Also can someone post up some tips and tricks for making the removal of the front diff easier. Thanks

 

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

Or swap your non-ADD parts over to the ADD assembly.

 

Alright, so is their anything special w/swapping the tubes? I understand that I will need a non-ADD inner oil seal, but is their anything else involved with the swap, ie..removing the axle from the housing? In another post it says that I will need a slide hammer to remove the axle shaft..I don't have one..and also says that you can pull the cover to pry out the axle from the inside if you have an open diff, but this one has a locker.

One thing that I guess that I don't understand however is that as it sits right now, I can turn the flange and both shafts turn in the same direction due to the locker, so does that mean that the ADD is engaged, and if so, could I leave it as is or will it disengage on it's own from lack of vacuum, electrical connections etc?

 

Never worked with the ADD axles, so have no advice on the swapping. Do some searches here and on 4x4wire.com for some ideas, many folks have done that swap. Tools can usually be rented at many auto part stores.

The ADD actuator is inside the driver's side of the assembly, inboard of the CV axles. So yes, both axles will turn due to the flanges, if the actuator is locked in and there is a locker installed. Also, should not be able to hold one flange still and still turn the other one.

 

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=399612

You could just run a vacuum line to the one side of the actuator. Read the above article for more info.