I just picked up a kit from advanced auto
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...goryCode=3571B
was curious if anyone else has used this product? or similar products?

someone told me it might be a bad idea..

when i got the truck the ac didn't blow cold, so i figured this would do the trick. any recommendation would be great.

 

What year is your truck?

 

1995 3.0l, it has the 134a sticker on the truck

 

I used the exact same product last summer in my 01 4Runner. My A/C was only cool, added about 1/2 of the can now it's much better. I went up to the top of the green, almost into the red on the guage. Haven't checked it since, I'll see how well it cools this year.
I don't see how it can be a bad idea, you're only adding what's in there already.

 

I have heard nothing but bad things about the aftermarket recharging kits.

The correct refrigerant will have the proper combination of additives, lubricants, etc, to work with your system.

Do yourself a favor. Return the kit to advanced auto and take it to a specialist who can fix it right, with the correct refrigerant. It will be cheaper, in the long run.

 

this one contains lubricant for the compressor as well as sealant for leaks. calling a buddy now

 

Well a master tech I know told me that the r-134 systems need a more precise charge pressure than the older r-12 systems did, so I would think it would be even harder to refill yourself. But I've never tried it myself. If it's leaked out the original charge there's a good chance you need a seal or two replaced huh? Might want to have a vacumum pulled on the system if you open it up to replace a seal. If it's been unsealed for very long you might want to replace the dryer/receiver with a new one. Good luck, let us know how it works.

 

ok, this has a gauge on it also to let me know how much pressure.

 

yeah i just tried it, didnt work worth a ☺☺☺☺, ac still blows hot

 

I was casting about for a kit other than the partsamerica version and came up with this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R12-F...spagenameZWDVW

The guy has 100% rating on a lot of sales. Plus it claims to have all the necessaries for an r12 or r134a system. Plus the gauge. Plus leak detection additive if necessary. And lubricant. Plus DVD and written instructions.

I double-checked the claims... the guy answered almost immediately.

Lastly.. this is for the Volvo, which has a working A/C but a skosh weak. It shows no sticker indicating conversion to r134a. So the claim that it has all that is necessary for both cases is a plus. If it works, I'll buy another and see if I can't get the 4Runner to work. It doesn't work in any detectable way, just the proper switch lights.. no compressor bearing noise etc. Either totally discharged, or a leak.

So one thing at a time... start with the system that I know is working.

Not sure how long the link will work.

 

first you need to find out if the system is flat or not. if it is not flat make sure the clutch is engaging. if all that is good add some 134a, measure the temperature coming out of your vents and charge till it is an aceptable temp. just because you add a bunch of refrigerant doesn't make it colder. the 134a is taking the heat out of the cab and depositing it outside via evaporating and condensing of refrigerant, when the 134a boils it is taking heat away from the air passing over the coil (boils=evaporate) then when it goes through the condenser it deposits the heat outside (condenses)
overcharging is hard on seals and compressors as well as being inefficient.
good luck


troy

 

The kit comes with a pressure gauge and range info.

The system is working, just not strong... meaning on a 100F day, the inside is ok only with the fans on.

My original interest was due to a noisy compressor when the clutch pulled in. So I wanted to know about lubrication. On advice from others to let it run, I did, and it quieted down after a few weeks.

So I will be adding lubricant and raising the pressure to the correct range. Or at least that is the plan. If that works, I'll be after the 4Runners system which may prove more difficult.

I understand the theory of evaporitive cooling... theory is my strong point, practice is what I lack.

 

that little can thingy will work, as long as your compressor is still engaging, which means the system hasnt completly emptied itself. (as stated above) i would charge in small amounts with a thermometer in the dash. too much is a bad thing. and that little gauge thingy on the can is a guide only. practically every a/c system is different. my vents get down to about 40 while driving. i would be happy with 50 degrees at the vent at an idle to be safe.

 

We can get 39 on the John Deere tractors with 134, and we don't even own a vacume pump, that should make some heads explode!!

 

When I did mine I bought a manifold gauge set for 134a on e-bay (around $30) and a vacuum pump you hook to your compressor like this one. It worked real well! You have to pull a vacuum on the system to draw out all the moisture, and after you close the valves and turn off the pump it should hold 30 mm of vacuum for at least 10 min. If this happens then you can charge the system. If not, you have a leak that needs to be repaired. If you cannot pull a vacuum you have a large leak and will need to repair it and replace the drier for your system to work efficiently.

If your compressor is not working you will not be able to charge the system because it cannot draw the coolant into the system.

This stuff is not "rocket surgery" (ha, ha)! I actually installed an A/C system on my Jeep (IT GETS HOT IN TEXAS!). I got tired of messing with the R-12 system that was on it. I had to do some customizing, but it was fun! It has held a full charge for 3 years now. I get under 40 F on mine!


I had to make custom brackets for the condenser and paint it black


New drier and hoses...


New Compressor, I replaced my leaking radiator while I was in there.

 

Follow up on my A/C adventure. The kit worked beatifully on the Volvo. The video supplied was excellent... I actually learned a few things.

The Volvo is now a refrigerator inside.

So I thought I was ready to work on the 4Runner. First thing I realized was that the compressor never came on, although all the electronics (there's a bunch) checked out.

As a result of the earlier work on the Volvo, I knew that the compressor clutch won't pull in if the pressure was too low. So sure enough, the pressure was zero.

I then used a can of the R12a which contains a red-dye, pressure came up to 25lbs. Turns out I didn't need the die, I could hear the leak. It is at the intake to the condensor fan (tubing) which is in front of the radiator. I think I can fix it by pulling off the grill and forming a new seal.

Then recharge the system and see if it holds pressure. I'll add a can of oil (special oil) which came with the kit.

As others have said, this stuff is simple... the enviro-wackos have got everyone spooked, So a lot of people (I'd bet) are running without A/C or paying the "certified experts" big bucks to do what is a very simple job (as others have said).

 

If there is no pressure in the system how do you get the compressor to kick on? I read through my Haynes manual (just like under wear...barely covers the ugly parts) and there were no directions on how to jumper the compressor to get it to turn on. I only saw one wire in a connector on the top of the compressor but nothing else.

 

Are you talking about the Hayes 4runner manual or A/C manual?

I have the a/c manual and I will check and see what it says...

 

My hayes A/C manual tells how to do it on a GM system, but not on a Toyota or other Japanese car. You might look in the Factory Service Manual.

It might kick on when you start adding the charge, depending on where the Low Pressure Cutoff switch is reading from.

 

I've got the Haynes Toyota 4Runner/Truck manual...it may be too broad a coverage to be of any help. Does anyone have a download of a FSM for the 95 model? Or at least a copy on a cd I can buy?