ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

BTW, MY CABLES SUCK! lol...... At least on the "Cool/Hot" one....it does NOT wanna move, so I have to pull the cable under the hood and/or under the dash on the bottom of the blower motor(the gates). Oh well, it works... just curious if that job is as much of a nightmare as I've heard. lol.

BMcEL

Yea the 4 position switch for the blower speed...the resistors 'wear out' over time. If 'position 1' is dead, you can usually expect 2 & 3 to follow. Position 4 should theoretically never wear out because there is no resistor to slow the blower fan down, just passes full voltage straight to the blower. For the cables try lubing up the linkages/pivot points and the cables themselves. I know they can dry out over time. I'm not sure about your idle up issue but it sounds like it has to do with either a bad/improperly adjusted VSV or the vacuum lines could be plugged up a little. Good luck man!

edeslaur

Cheap Tricks comes through again. Here's his writeup for the fan switch problem - which I happen to be having as well (1 & 2). I used his rear-window guide to get my rear window going. It was non-op when I bought the truck.

See, I told you it wasn't a hijack!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YEAHHHHHH, BOOOOOOOOOEY! lol. Roger is the SHIZZLE! LOL.

Thanks, Ed...I was feeling like a serious highjacker, too! lol. Hope it works out for us,....cuz on the highway, I start to freeze even on setting 2! Be nice to have #1 setting again, yeah? OOOH, and you, only having 3 and 4? yeah, you need'2 get that, homie! lol.

THANKS FOR THE LINK!
PS> Think I wanna do his shower idea, too!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Same p/n as Roger has listed for the 86 Runner.... with my 20% I'm quoted 42.50$ plus tax? Grrr! lol. I need a trans worse, lol....maybe I'll live with the 3 setting fan for now, until I can do the trans. ORRRRRRRR< maybe I'll hit pick-upart or my fav yard and ask them. They usually tell me I can return it if it's no good. Probably not a good idea, as it appears they OFTEN blow out over time. Ok, 42.50$ it is, unless dealerdirectparts.com gives me a better price? lol... lemme go look! haha.

edeslaur

$10 at ToyotaPartsZone

Never used them, can't tell you what shipping is, etc.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

10.43$ + Tax from Dealerdirectparts.com for the same part!!!!! 10.78$ shipping... but SHEEEEEEEESH, the dealers are such rapists of wallets!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

11.81$ shipping from them, Ed. (to Los Angeles Area, anyhow, lol)

edeslaur

Yeah, I'm trying to remember if I need anything else.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Cabin filters?(Yea, there are other fixes like LOWES "this or that" stuff, lol... Either way, the "DIRTY FOOT" Smell when it's just starting up is nothing nice! lol) I've seen those REALLLLLLLLLY nasty with mold, etc. NO CLUE on how many or where they are, etc. I think I see one in the pass. side above the motor?

edeslaur

Kragen O'Reily, $11.86, they'll have it in on Thursday for me. Borg Warner part, I'll take it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PART NUMBER, RIGHT NOW, MISTER! hahahaha

edeslaur

Here you go: Part # RU950

edeslaur

BTW, I'm not aware that there is a cabin filter in our older Toys.

edeslaur

Ok, blower resistor - check, works great now. Low, Med1, Med2, and High. Sweet!

Back to the AC... tracked it down to a pressure switch problem. There's no pressure to kick the switch on.

The system is totally empty (ambient pressure). Crap, time to find the leak... It's been converted to R134, so it'll be easy to rectify once I've sorted out the leak. When it was converted, it held vaccum and everything.

Hopefully it's not the compressor (cha-ching!!).

It wasn't a total loss, I got to tear into the truck a bit and learn more about it. Found a connector jammed into the glovebox light switch in a way it wore through the insulation. At least it was the negative side of the connector. Whew!! Relo'd that and taped over the owie.

At the same time, I found the heater and AC fuses behind the dash.

The PO had totally mad wiring skills. Wire nuts for the radio connectors, except where electric tape or just plain ole bare wire twisted togther sufficed. Sadly, looks like he took something nice out of there. It's wired for an amp in the rear, etc. Someone had some money in it at one time. All that's gone now.

The Pioneer was a 1998 unit just like I had in my '81 Prelude back then. It worked Ok except when the leftmost speaker cut out. And the power connector had a screw jammed into it to try to rectify that I guess.

I swapped it out for a 7 year old deck I had sitting on a shelf. It's not fancy, but at least it works and I won't be worried about feeding it CDs.

Which allowed me to find another heater fuse on the center tunnel behind the radio (10A). Man, this thing has relays and fuses *everywhere*.

BMcEL

Good to hear you're making progress. I'm sure someone on here would advise against it but you can spend about $10-20 on some r134a (preferably some with oil in it) just to see if it fires up and to make sure your compressor isn't shot. Just don't run it for long without evacuating and recharging it properly. It's a cheap way to check the compressor and find out if you have a leak.

edeslaur

So... It turns out that the connector that had the wire worn through is for the thermistor. And it may not have been the ground-side that was grounding out.

What would happen if the thermistor wasn't working properly. Could I see intermittent behaviour? Could it frag my compressor?

BMcEL

It wouldn't destroy the compressor, just prevent it from kicking on. Could certainly cause it to work intermittently if it was shorting out. If it shorted on the 12v side it would just pop the AC fuse right under the heater fuse.

edeslaur

Looks like I'm headed to Harbor Freight for a vacuum pump and a manifold set with gauges.

edeslaur

That's probably my intermittent problem I was having then.