I ran EB's 268 Torker for years it was a great improvement. I have a stock motor in my rig now that is a temp until i finsh rebuilding a new HO 22R motor. Right now I can notice a significant difference without the cam and I stomp on the gas with no cam response and I miss it!

I ran pacesetter it sucked only cool thing was factor collector location for quick hook up, crappy I had to mess with the header gasket for years before I got it to seat correctly. also the factory paint jsu tflaked off so I had to repaint it with header paint to keep it from rusting out.

I have hedman now it rocks sounds good nice bends and piping to the collector which is now gone cause i welded it shut

have fun!

thanks for the advice guys. sounds like i dont want to go cheap on a header, i think when funds allow, i will be getting a hedman or a hooker header... though i dont know if hooker makes headers for anything other than old domestic cars.. lol.
i was thinking of buying the header now and installing it while the engine is out, but then i figure i might as well put the manifold back on for now, since i still need to find another supra intake, as ill prob notice more of a difference with a good cam and a new engine.

Re-read this thread so as to not double-post, but Ted (Engnbldr) himself told me and has posted that he feels the stock manifold is just as good as any header for a n/a motor. If you're on a budget like me, that's good to know or at least consider.

Now I have $.04 in this thread!

I've heard the same, but from a different source. My experience though was a noticable seat of the pants improvement in throttle response and hill climbing with the addition of a full header and exhaust. (LCE) I have a Comp Cam but very similar to the 268 in terms of numbers and had it in before any exh. modification. Maybe there was some difference but it was very hard to say. That also coincided with a full engine rebuild, so there could be many other factors to muddy things up. After the exhaust though...Wow!

Another option I almost tried is to use the stock manifold but add the y pipe for an '85 or older truck as they have the Y extended much further down the pipe.

Check these out. Look at the difference in tube length. The 2nd one almost is a header.
359801
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...pe=688&PTSet=A

449921
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...pe=688&PTSet=A

I included the part # per Checker/Schuck/Kragen/Oreilly or whatever they're called near you just in case my links dont work.

My manifold cracked so I had to spend more anyway and decided to just pop for a full system.

I wonder what the combo of the 268 and a heavy flywheel would be like. The heavy FW (lets call it HFW) would smooth out the idle I would think, and provide some lower end torque (purely through conservation of momentum) and the 268* cam would deal with the higher end power.

Does the 268* reduce low end torque compared to stock??

What do you mean by reduce? Reduce the rpm where useful torque begins or reduce the useful torque at lower rpm? Cripes, even my question isn't clear.

Camo has Ted's #s posted above.
Comp Cams specs are here under each individual part. They call the 252 the closest to OEM.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...gory_Code=YOTA
TRD #s per Roger's site.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#CamSpecs

I looked at the HFW thing quite a while ago. I can't remember the specifics, but in the end I discarded the idea as too much work for too little return. The info was here on YT somewhere.

What i meant was right now, the motor makes lets say 50ft-lbs at 800rpm (sure it does... ) with the stock cam. With the 268, which i think is billed as a increasing high rpm power, do you get less torque at low rpms (say 800rpm)?

My understanding is that with cams, it always a trade-off as all you can do is shift the powerband around.

I put a pace setter header on my truck about 2 months ago. When i got it, I stripped off the factory paint and prepped it for some Duplicolor VHT paint. Doing this step right took a little time but so far the results have been well worth it. Along with the header i did a new magnaflo cat and a new cat back system all painted with the VHT. And so far there have been no burn off or flaking.

When i was installing it i ran into the problem of having to extend the O2 sensor wire, but that was more of an inconvienence than anything. 10 minutes of work and i have a totally reversable set up if i ever go back to stock.

I have block off plates instead of an air injection manifold so 2 minutes on a bench grinder clearenced them enough to clear the welds on the header tubes. The only other installation issue i had with mine is when the header was bolted to the motor the collecter hit the bellhousing a little. A quick couple tugs with a prybar kicked it out away from the bellhousing 1/4 inch and i was golden.

Leaks. A few after initial install. A few retorques after some heat cycles and no more leaks. The point im tryin to make is this. While the pacesetter isnt the best most direct bolt on header out there. A few minutes planning and prepping transforms this inexpensive header into an affordable and so far durable header.

Granted its not a LCE header or a Downey but as i said I dont know if its because mine is a newer generation of pacesetter as compared to maybe some earlier models that might be inferior in production practices, But so far no complains with mine.

dueler, this is OT, but is that a REAL sign in your avatar? 5 1/2 MPH?? lol thats too funny

and ive heard up and down about pacesetter. but if i buy something, i expect it to work right the first time. so ill go with a good quality header. thanks though. i appreciate it

Yes that is a real speed limit sign. Its at the camp ground that I frequent. And when i asked about it they said they thought 10mph was too fast for that area....... I left it at that cause i didnt want to get into a "I hate stupid people" conversation. lol.

And my header worked just fine the first time. I just used a little prep times b4 i just dove into it. :shrug:

Yeah, i had to monkey with my pacesetter. i wish i'd taken the time ahead of time, but of course i was rushing (daily driver down, caused me to make a couple mistakes, including not taking time with the header). People were discussing earlier on this thread about the manifold being just as good. This is slight, but do you feel how HEAVY that sucker is? i'm all for weight savings where i can get em so i can add weight elsewhere with less affect on accel, etc.

I had a hedman header on my old 86 4runner, and I was replacing collector gaskets on it every other month. I probably blew $150 on those soft aluminum gaskets over the years I owned that truck. I even took it to a good independent exhaust shop to have them make sure the exhaust wasn't lined up improperly. I would personally just keep the factory manifold... they're pretty damn good. and they don't F*(&ing leak.

well i got the cam, so as soon as my mechanic opens up, im dropping the truck off with him. should have it back within 2 weeks!

two weeks to put a cam in?

good time to put in ARP head studs too

no, 2 weeks to rebuild the engine. if it was gonna b 2 weeks to put it in, id pull it apart myself and try to figure it out. but no the HG blew again, so im just getting it rebuilt

even more reason for the arp head bolts.

I think you'll like the 268 I put one in the other month when I did the HG. It's noticeable not too lumpy but the truck ran like poo when I first got it so it was never smooth. I do more highway than anything and there is enough to haul wood from over the hill without an issue.

my mechanic is using new headbolts from the stealership. and hes giving me a 2 year warranty on the engine. i figure if anything will happen, it will happen within 2 years, lol.

got it back yesterday
i still love looking under the hood and seeing that new freshly coated engine, intake, and exhaust.. looks awesome.
got the speedo cable in, almost efortlessly, but i had a rotary lift to help me out. i could see where it would be hard without the lift.
as for the cam...
high rpms(3000-3800) i LOVE IT. i was actually accellerating up a hill i used to chug on.
but i hate letting it idle. right after i post this im gonna go out there and up the idle speed, it stalled twice yesterday. ive also noticed its running a little rich... do cams typically do that? i remember reading something on here about adjusting the air/fuel mixture on the VAFM.
overall, im loving the truck. .

okay, i just decided im gonna mess with the idle at work... it was idling fine. then i turned it off, started it with my foot on the brake, and it started going from 1000 rpm to 500rpm then back then down to 250rpm then back up and started leveling off... sound normal?