A340H Temp Sensor Question
05-11-2008, 12:25 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: the great Maine wilderness
Posts: 2,048
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
A340H Temp Sensor Question
Hey all, got the o.d. problem. I think it is the fluid temp sensor on pass side of trans.. I ran the tests per fsm http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...34electron.pdf
The info is all the way at the bottom...
Any way, The ohms flashed around 1236 then back to o.l(truck was driven 5 mi. over an hour before).... I assume this is not normal, and Im wondering if this is likely a wiring issue, or if the sensor itself is junk...also...can this thing be cleaned up? I cant imagine a sensor like this failing. Also...I should mention the tranny was water logged 2 weeks ago, and flushed with 30qts of dex3 and a pint of seafoam. TIA
The info is all the way at the bottom...
Any way, The ohms flashed around 1236 then back to o.l(truck was driven 5 mi. over an hour before).... I assume this is not normal, and Im wondering if this is likely a wiring issue, or if the sensor itself is junk...also...can this thing be cleaned up? I cant imagine a sensor like this failing. Also...I should mention the tranny was water logged 2 weeks ago, and flushed with 30qts of dex3 and a pint of seafoam. TIA
05-12-2008, 06:38 AM
#2
Contributing Member
I'm not sure what effect (if any) the ATF temp sensor has on the shifting, I was always under the impression that it was the coolant temp sensor that caused the OD to not engauge. Maybe its either one. 
Is your ATF temp light coming on?
Is your ATF temp light coming on?
05-12-2008, 11:17 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: the great Maine wilderness
Posts: 2,048
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
No...no atf temp light, I figured out that that has nothing to do with my problem, It is almost certainly a solonoid, now it shifts from 1st right to 3rd, no 2nd(unless i manual shift) or O.D., O well, have another tranny with only 130k on it, gonna try the swap this weekend... any tips, things to make the job easier, I havent done one of these before on a yota, I am assuming its fairly straight forward?
05-12-2008, 11:47 AM
#4
Contributing Member
Yeah... most useful "tool of the year award" goes to the tranny jack:
Before you take the tranny bolts out, unbolt the drive plate from the torque converter. There is a little plate at the bottom of the bell housing that when removed allows just enough room to get them out (one at a time). NOTE: one of those drive plate bolts is different than the others (mine was green), It goes in first when going back together, doesn't matter which hole, just that it is the first to go in (helps with centering).
This is how not to do it, but it makes a good pic for showing the parts involved:
On removal the hardest part is breaking loose the 2 top bell housing bolts, just because they are so hard to reach. Lots of 1/2" drive extensions and a swivel or 2 helps alot.
Before going back together take the time to clean the pilot hole in the drive plate of any rust, makes sliding back together easy (a little oil makes it happy too):
A helpful tip for getting the tranny lined back up easy (going back together) is to make some guide pins. Take a couple extra tranny bolts and cut the heads off and cut a slot in the end. Screw the guide pins into a bell housing bolt hole on each side of the drive plate. Install the tranny and get a couple of bolts started. Then take a flathead screw driver and remove the guide pins. Then install the rest of the bolts. Don't force it together with the bolts, you should be able to push it together by hand when the angle is right.
Before you take the tranny bolts out, unbolt the drive plate from the torque converter. There is a little plate at the bottom of the bell housing that when removed allows just enough room to get them out (one at a time). NOTE: one of those drive plate bolts is different than the others (mine was green), It goes in first when going back together, doesn't matter which hole, just that it is the first to go in (helps with centering).
This is how not to do it, but it makes a good pic for showing the parts involved:
On removal the hardest part is breaking loose the 2 top bell housing bolts, just because they are so hard to reach. Lots of 1/2" drive extensions and a swivel or 2 helps alot.
Before going back together take the time to clean the pilot hole in the drive plate of any rust, makes sliding back together easy (a little oil makes it happy too):
A helpful tip for getting the tranny lined back up easy (going back together) is to make some guide pins. Take a couple extra tranny bolts and cut the heads off and cut a slot in the end. Screw the guide pins into a bell housing bolt hole on each side of the drive plate. Install the tranny and get a couple of bolts started. Then take a flathead screw driver and remove the guide pins. Then install the rest of the bolts. Don't force it together with the bolts, you should be able to push it together by hand when the angle is right.
Last edited by mt_goat; 05-12-2008 at 11:59 AM.
05-13-2008, 04:32 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: the great Maine wilderness
Posts: 2,048
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
awesome...thanks again....A buudy of mine has a tranny jack that i'm going to use, and I will do as you said with the drive plate... Hopefully going to start this project over the weekend, also going to do the rear main seal, and putting in a new rear 3rd member(long story but mine has been on its way out for 2 years), so I'll repost on my progress...plus I'm sure I'll have many questions as I get going..lol
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
the1998sr5
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
15
07-14-2020 08:35 PM
nframe
3.4 Swaps
3
08-16-2015 09:03 AM
