9four4runner

So my 2nd gen runners been down for about 3yrs now been building it little by little since my family starting growing so since then I have gottin a 4 inch lift from some guy on Craig's the. I got some ball join spacers and lifted the rear with pro comp coils, then the v6 blew up. So I went out and got a AA bell housing kit for a 350ci and scored a body lift at work. Since I work full time and work on it only on weekends if I find time I wanted to know if it was possibly to run 40s on ifs? As of right now the motor and trans are bolted up in place and not running, it's about a 6 inch suspension lift with 3 inch body lift. And I really don't wanna go SAS because I don't do too much hard wheeling.....yet

Vudujoose

I run 36x15.50s and at max flex in the rear my tires will rub. Im not saying you can't I'm just saying that if you need any flex it wont be there. I am also running a 4 inch suspension and 3 inch body lift.

9four4runner

Around here in humboltd there arnt to many places to go hard wheelin there's just a few places with mud pits if so flex isn't that important to me I guess but would 40s be overkill I wanna be able to regear or stick with 4.88s. Btw I have 4.10s in it right now

jaretstuff

If you run 40s you are going to need to regear to at lest a 5.29

Vudujoose

With 40s your going to need to regear to 5.29s. As I said I dont know if you can run 40s as most guys running 38s are on an solid front axle.

jaretstuff

You can run them but will wear out your front ball joints, cvs, and everything will get loose. Just stick to 36s or 37s and you will be happier

Vudujoose

Even with 36s like mine your gonna see premature wear and tear on cv's and ball joints. I would stick to a max of 36 but if i was being honest stay at a 34 ... I'm done with 36s this will be my last set for this truck.

jaretstuff

With a 35 and the 4.88 gears it will be a much better truck.

Vudujoose

> 34 get 5.29's, while it will work, you will now be putting stress on your trans. especially if it's an auto.

9four4runner

Ok regear but is it because of the lack of power from a stock motor to the trans from the motor? Wount a hopped up 350 compensate for that? Or regardless I'd have to regear?

MaK92-4RnR

One question.... Why?

Unless you're in a snow year round area of the world, theres really no benefit other than "looking cool"

I have 37s on my 88. its SAS'd, so sure it could fit 40s, but theres no logical or functional reason why it needs them.

9four4runner

Nobody around here has 40s for a daily driver so I kinda wanna stand out look cool I guess but It all comes down to the price of the tires I guess

Vudujoose

Yes a "hopped up" 350 would probably not be ideal with 5.29's but you asked if 40's would need a regear, with a stock 3vz or 22re you would need the 5.29's.

A better match for the 350 would probably be the 4.88's or 4.10's depending on what kind of driving your doing.

MaK92-4RnR

Well I just hope you're ready to spend some money. you'll probably need a 2" body lift, cut some fenders and replace your idler arm every 5-10k miles. lol

9four4runner

Regular driving and some mild fire trials but I'm not afraid to use a sawzall at all it's my favorite tool at work

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

first off people running 40s on toyota solid axles have to beef up everything due to the size and weight mass being put on those axles. Even then, chromoly toyota axles are really only good up to like a 40" tire with a low HP toyota motor and a lightweight rig.

With that said, your'e talking about putting 40s on puny IFS ring gear and CV axles with v8 horsepower pushing it. I would guess you'll be saying bye bye to your 7.5" front diff or a CV the first time you put it in 4wd and touch the skinny pedal.

Really though, if you're doing it to be that cool guy running 40s on IFS - why stop there? why not go all the way up to 44+ and end up with something like this:


here's 40s on a 2nd gen with full width axles:

Vudujoose

Trolololololol. Well said!

9four4runner

Lol go big or go home I guess but the only reason I wanna stick with ifs is cuz I don't wanna be like everybody else and be like "oh yea I got a sas'd yota, naw man it's offroad only" I want it as a daily driver and if I brake things I could care less it just the road less taken for me I guess

MaK92-4RnR

K, you're not understanding what were trying to tell you. I've personally broken CV joints and idler arms on 33x10.50 tires, with light wheeling and daily driving. ( my 2nd gen only had roughly 140k miles the CV joints threw in the towel )

Putting 40" tires on CV joints and an idler arm steering is just moronic. As I said before, I don't even have 40s on my SAS'd 88 4Runner, I wouldn't even suggest to anyone running 40s on a Toyota front axle unless its completely built. longfields, trunion bearing removed, stronger wheel studs and steering studs. Hell, I probably wouldn't even do it without 6 shooter knuckles and steering arms and hydro assist.

Were not saying it cant be done, But just know that you're going to dig yourself a hole. instead, spend 1000 bucks on some 33x10.50r15 KM2s and some nice rims and accept that were trying to save you from a huge hassle later on.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

well it's your rig. i say do it and find out what happens if you can afford to play with your time and money. people do crazier things to their vehicles. just keep in the back of your mind that you're very likely to break something even on daily driving. For DD use, you will still need to beef up some parts to handle the extra stress - items like t-case outputs are easily overlooked, but can be one of the first parts to go. Ultimately, there are options to beef up pretty much every component on our rigs these days, but it's just a matter of deciding where to best spend your money...many will say it's just easier/more cost effective to SAS right off the bat and focus your spending on parts that will stay on the rig as it changes.