93 4Runner V6 3vze Diagnostic Not Working
#1
93 4Runner V6 3vze Diagnostic Not Working
First time poster and only new to yotatech and glad I find the website thanks in advance to everyone.
I been having troubles with my 93 4Runner V6 Check engine light on(when driving it goes off and comes on and while its on car runs crap when off fine) I'm trying to get it to go into diagnostic mode I have connected a wire from TE1 to E1 but nothing will happen I made sure all accessories off the only thing is before I got it, it had been converted from auto to manual and I read that it has to be in neutral so I found the inhibitor switch and it's in neutral position and it's got me scratching my head as I can't get it to flash on dash to tell what to start with any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I been having troubles with my 93 4Runner V6 Check engine light on(when driving it goes off and comes on and while its on car runs crap when off fine) I'm trying to get it to go into diagnostic mode I have connected a wire from TE1 to E1 but nothing will happen I made sure all accessories off the only thing is before I got it, it had been converted from auto to manual and I read that it has to be in neutral so I found the inhibitor switch and it's in neutral position and it's got me scratching my head as I can't get it to flash on dash to tell what to start with any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
#2
Start with the easy stuff. When you turn key-on (no jumper), does the CEL light solid?
With your multimeter, check for battery voltage to ground at B+ in the diagnostic connector. With key-off, check for continuity to ground at E1. Using a test light to ground, test W with the jumper in (you can use the multimeter, but you are looking for flashing. W is the same as the CEL.)
With your multimeter, check for battery voltage to ground at B+ in the diagnostic connector. With key-off, check for continuity to ground at E1. Using a test light to ground, test W with the jumper in (you can use the multimeter, but you are looking for flashing. W is the same as the CEL.)
#3
Start with the easy stuff. When you turn key-on (no jumper), does the CEL light solid?
With your multimeter, check for battery voltage to ground at B+ in the diagnostic connector. With key-off, check for continuity to ground at E1. Using a test light to ground, test W with the jumper in (you can use the multimeter, but you are looking for flashing. W is the same as the CEL.)
With your multimeter, check for battery voltage to ground at B+ in the diagnostic connector. With key-off, check for continuity to ground at E1. Using a test light to ground, test W with the jumper in (you can use the multimeter, but you are looking for flashing. W is the same as the CEL.)
#4
Start with the easy stuff. When you turn key-on (no jumper), does the CEL light solid?
With your multimeter, check for battery voltage to ground at B+ in the diagnostic connector. With key-off, check for continuity to ground at E1. Using a test light to ground, test W with the jumper in (you can use the multimeter, but you are looking for flashing. W is the same as the CEL.)
With your multimeter, check for battery voltage to ground at B+ in the diagnostic connector. With key-off, check for continuity to ground at E1. Using a test light to ground, test W with the jumper in (you can use the multimeter, but you are looking for flashing. W is the same as the CEL.)
With key on voltage at B+ 12.30v
E1 has continuity
Tested W with test light while jumper in and key on it only makes wire inside test light glow red no actually light or flashing
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