Yeah, buy the tap. The keg too =)

They aren't that pricey, and even a cheap one will work great for what you are doing, since you aren't actually cutting any threads. As annoying as the costs can be, I love buying tools, it's like adding weapons to my arsenal

 

Also, there shouldn't be much resistance when you are turning the tap, since there should be no actual thread cutting. Be careful not to cross-thread the tap...

 

Thanks guys.

GREAT NEWS>>>>>>> just got the call, my refund check is ready.......bad news...I'm at training tomorrow and we both have to sign it to deposit it......hmmmmmmmmm...gotta figure that one out.

 

yep...that was my fear with notching my own.....screwing it up.

 

Nice! I'm happy for you, I was stoked to get mine too, pretty much as soon as I got it it was spent impulsively at LCE, now I'm waiting for them to ship my crap. I'm pumped to see how your truck turns out. What do you think you are gonna get for it?

 

By "get for it" I assume you mean TO BUY...because this NEVER will be sold.\\

timing cover complete with oil and water pump
complete gasket kit
head bolts
ALL from engnbldr

odds and ends from TOYOTA...crank bolt, long allen screw, FIPG

Great part is the check is for ALOT of money...bad part...pay all the taxes that are due for the year since they are not escowed in my mortgage and that DEVOURS almost 2/3 of it. ...the rest..catch up on some bills..stuff for the house etc etc, but I go 1st because after my wife has spent $$$$$ on several haircuts etc and I cut mine in the basement by almost buzzing it bald, I GET to go 1st. Says me.

 

Good luck with that.

 

I'm very tough when she's not reading over my shoulder

 

hahhaha, hey I shave my own head too I know how it goes haha

 

Ummmm I kinda gotta shave mine...I've been noticing I have less and less to shave. My razors have been lasting longer, so that's a plus.

 

I tell people it's so that the drain doesn't get clogged anymore

 

Great to hear you're ready to jump back in! Sounds like you've got a great plan on what you'd like to do...very similar to mine. Oil pan is intimidating me a little too and the last time I looked underneath I noticed at least 1 sway bar bolt that has been broken off.

Quick question on the head for those much smarter than me...other than cost what are the performance benefits from taking your existing head to a machine shop? I was also considering the street RV head from EB and was curious if the machine shop could make my stock head BETTER than a new one from EB or LCE? What do I need to tell the guys at the machine shop I'd like done to improve the performance of my head?

 

Do the full rebuild !

 

I'm caught up with this thread. Mostly.

Concerning buying a new head vs. fixing up an old one yourself, if it seems to be in excellent shape and the budget is really tight, try it. What concerns me is the potential hidden damage in old heads. Electrolysis takes a toll, and even the newest vehicles this subforum covers are 15 years old now.

What makes sense depends on what you're starting with and what you want. Paying a shop to have a 22R/RE head checked and rebuilt often isn't worth it these days, IMO. A recommended local shop here wanted $329 to rebuild mine or do an exchange. When a decent quality new stock head costs $400, why bother? I wouldn't have wanted mine rebuilt anyway; it was pretty far gone.

As for cleaning/chasing threads, what I've gathered is the general consensus (as with everything, opinions vary) is to use a chaser instead of a tap. If you use a tap, use the bottoming kind and be careful. Taps are designed to cut, not clean.

Cutting a couple grooves in a bolt to make a chaser worked fine for cleaning out my head bolt holes. Maybe not ideal, but it worked.

As for what to cut grooves with, most anything should work, even a hacksaw. If you don't have a Dremel style tool, I highly recommend getting one. I'm sorry I waited so long myself. You can buy Black and Decker's version, which is arguably better than the name brand Dremels, at Wal-Mart for $25. Buy a pack of cutting/grinding/polishing accessories at Harbor Freight. While you're shopping there, grab a package of stainless steel brushes. I got these. They have been a godsend during my rebuild, particularly for cleaning bolt threads. Run the brushes only on low speed.

 

thanks flying

 

As for doing the machine shop and letting them rebuild the original head cost per dollar you will come out ahead with the engnbldr head and 261/268 cam.

As for the L.C. Engineering head and cam well I have the Pro Street set up and ended up getting the 268 cam from engnbldr to replace their matching cam and the set is $1049 vs. under $600 (and now he has free shipping) from engnbldr set up with the 268 and if you compare them you will see they are very very close to the same thing with the springs , guides and seals even the cam grinds are close.

all the mods to the head are geared toward better breathing = pulling power/horse power a little better mpg as well , I can run mine(268 cam) up to 52-5300 and it still pulls vs the 261 which IIRC superbleeder says cuts out around 47-4800 rpm hell my truck on 5.29's and 35's runs 90+ mph very easily with a 5 speed

 

holy crap....90 with 35's..your tires must be perfect!

won't be home all day (feel free to stop by and get my oil pan off).

tonight I plan on ordering from TED. of course, no parts get put on until I get than G-D pan off and look at the crank.

 

guys.. have a quick question..

Ride is '95 22re 4x4

One of these days I decided to change my spark plugs while the engine was
still hot (idiot). Cylinder 1 plug went fine, when I tried to screw in the cylinder
2 plug it got stuck after only a couple of turns. I tried to clean the
debris and oil in the thread with a paper napkin using a screwdriver. I
could clean some of the debris but then the stupid napkin got into the
cylinder. I started the engine with the plug off expecting the napkin to
pop-off from the spark plug hole. It did not (guess because it was folded
several times). Instead, I began hearing a very ugly metallic sound deep
inside the engine. I let the engine run for a couple of minutes expecting
the noise to clear out. It did not. My first thought was that the napkin
got stuck in the exhaust valve opening preventing the valve to close
properly causing the piston to hit the valve or something like that. So I
thought that if I could get the cylinder mixture to ignite then it would
burn out and dissolve the napkin. So I screwed in the spark plug by force
(cross-threading the whole thing) and started the engine. The noise slowly
disappeared in a matter of 15 secs. Car runs fine and I haven't heard that
noise again.

However, I'm still worried about some damage in the engine or the valve
because that metallic sound was so LOUD that I think something bended in
there. I haven't made a compression test yet.

so would you tear the rocker arm assembly apart and check things out? i'm a little bit worried that's all

 

Take the head off and check? You don't need to rip apart the whole engine just to check the valves. Unless you somehow managed to bend a rod (which would make loud banging sounds as it hits things inside the block, but it would sound like that all the time), then you're in for the high jump.

I think you'll find that the tissue probably got stuck on one of the valves and subsequently met a fiery end like you thought. I'd almost be willing to bet money that the exhaust valve got kissed by the piston a few hundred times and will look like it. I predict that either it'll be physically fine, or you'll have to put a new valve in.

 

GREAT! Are you getting the Street RV and 268? Or taking yours to the machine shop?

Good luck with the pan...