KO KO

Hello,

I am new to the forum and have recently bought a 1991 T4R 4x4 V6 SR5, named D.O.G. (Dangerous Offroad Gamble)

As expected with a 18 year old vehicle, there are a couple problems with it and I was hoping you guys might be able to help me because I would rather try and fix it than sending it to a mechanic.

Some of the things wrong with it are:

Power steering leaks (I was told the high pressure line needs to be replaced)
A/C broken (I'm hoping it just needs to be recharged)
Horn Broken

There are a couple other things minor:

The automatic gear shift is loose and often pops from R to N
The gas petal has about an 1 - 1 1/2 in where you press and there is no resistance, then it starts accelerating
The break petal is really soft, but sometimes not. Most of the time it has to be pressed a long time to break (most likely need to be replaced, but not the problem) but at other times that time to get to the resistance is immediate.
The fuel gauge constantly flucuates, increasing apparent gas level without adding more gas.

Thank you for your time.

BTW, I am a college kid, so tools and funds are limited!

Thanks

peow130

Gas pedal issue: Adjust the cable that runs from the pedal to the throttle-body. Adjust until there is little play, but not too much to where it's opening the throttle.
Brakes need to be bled out.
Fuel sending unit i'm thinking

LITLRED

Welcome to toyota truck 101.
These mostly sound like easy fixes. For the PS leak, first I'd get some simple green in a spray bottle and spray down the pump, reservoir, lines and ps unit, then hose it down, with a pressure washer if you have access to one. (Don't spray down a hot motor). It may take a couple times with some scrubbing. Then you'll be able to see where the leak is. If the leak is at the end of the hose, you may be able to just cut the end off. If the fluid looks contaminated, drain it out and replace with Dexron III ATF.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Welcome to Yotatech!!!

Theres LOTS of info on here to help and guide you thru your repairs!!!

mattaway

the brake pedal problem sounds to me like your master cylinder is on its way out. try bleeding the brakes, and if that doesn't help replaced the master. it's really easy to do, and only takes 1 wrench (12mm is i remember right)

if your master cylinder is going bad, don't let it completely go bad like i did. one day you'll go to hit the brake pedal and nothing will happen.... let me tell you that it's very scary, especially when there's cars infront of you. i almost crapped my pants.

KO KO

Wow, thanks for all the quick responses.

I think i might need to mention that i don't actually know how to do any of these things, but I want to learn. I'm just starting out and honestly all i really know how to do is check my oil and change a tire, but I'm good at following directions so I know I can do all this myself.

12mm wrench, I have a multi-tool, do you think this will work? How do i bleed the brakes?

What is simple green? The previous owner said they were just continually topping off the PS fluid.

Anyone know how to fix the horn? Other than the brakes, this is what I'm worried about because when i renew the safety (required by the state of HI) i have to prove the horn works. How do i tell if the horn itself is broken or if its a fuse or something?

Thanks again for your help

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

First, get yourself a Haynes manual from the autoparts store and a decent(don't go crazy, just something to get you by or go to a pawn shop...) set of sockets and wrenches if you plan on doing your "maintenance."

pb4ugotobed

Your best bet is the Toyota factory repair manual. I also have a 91 runner 4x4 v6 AT that was severely neglected by the previous owner. After replacing one of the heads, the headgaskets (while I was in there) and basically rebuilding the top half of the motor, It's been running great ever since. Now it's just nickel and diming me to death... a radiator cap here, alternator, rear brake shoes and axle seals there... the suspension is shot... rear springs are wiped out and all 4 shocks are blown... front brakes were wiped out, etc etc etc. Plan on doing a lot of work to it, it's an old truck. And it won't stop. Just something to be aware of. I'd say one of two things is gonna happen here... Either you're gonna learn real quick how to get dirty and fix some stuff, or your truck will end up on autotrader in a month when you realize it's too much for you to take on. Not trying to dissuade your intentions here, but I'd recommend buying yourself some tools There's plenty of information out there to fix pretty much anything you'll need to. You just gotta know how to find it, or at least know the right questions to ask.
There was a Haynes repair manual in my truck when I got it..... it SUCKS. It doesn't have half the information that the factory repair manual does, and the stuff in it is vague and hard to find. I'd HIGHLY recommend picking up (or downloading) a copy of the real deal. Another good benefit to you would also be to pick up a factory EWD for your truck (electrical wiring diagram). Between the two, there's nothing that you can't fix on it.

For your concerns...

Power steering leaks are not uncommon in older vehicles. Get some brake cleaner and hose down everything dirty. get it all nice and clean. Be prepared for a snowball effect here. These things tend to do that... it's a pressurized system. once you fix the weak link, almost always another one will pop up. Personally, mine leaks a little bit. I keep a bottle of ATF in the back, and just top it off every now and then. I don't have any intentions of fixing that particular leak until it breaks major. Worst case scenario, you'll blow off a line, and have to work harder to turn the wheel when you aren't moving.

Your gas pedai, as said you can adjust the cable at the throttle body. You'll need a couple (i believe) 12mm wrenches. just tighten it up a little bit so there isn't as much slack cable and it should take care of that.

Try bleeding out all 4 of your brake lines out real good. make sure there's no air in there. You also have rear drum brakes, which need to be adjusted on occasion. The rear brakes being out of adjustment can also lead to a low, soft pedal, or if they're real far out of adjustment, make it so that there's no pedal at all. park somewhere there's plenty of room around you. pull your e-brake handle all the way. put it in drive and let your foot off the brake. if you move, then it's out of adjustment. simply letting off the brake pedal, the e-brake should hold you where you're at. if you move, it's a real easy fix, will take you about 2 minutes with nothing other than a flat head screwdriver.

You probably need a new fuel sending unit. It's what feeds the gas gauge the signal.

does the blower itself even turn on when you try to turn the AC on (does air come out of the vents?) There's a breaker behind the glovebox that has a tendancy to stick open. There are also a couple fuses to check out there as well. You should be more specific as to what actually does or doesn't happen.

The horn, first make sure the fuse going to the horn is not blown. if it isn't, then go to walmart and get yourself a $3.00 test light. When you open the hood, you'll see a little seashell/conch shell shaped black thing hanging in front of your radiator. that's your horn. There should be a plug going into it with one wire. put the wire on the test light to the - battery terminal, and the other side in that one wire. have someone 'honk' the horn for you. if your test light lights up, your horn is bad. If not, then you should check the relay.

The gearshift thing, you'll probably have to adjust your linkages. sounds like something's a little off to me.

good luck!

LITLRED

Use a volt meter or circut tester to check for 12v at the horn. If you have power to the horn then it may be all rusted up like mine was. Remove the horn and try spraying penetrating oil in it and tap it repeatedly with a hammer.
Thats how I fixed mine.
If you search this site you'll find ways to fix your truck for minimal cash.
SimpleGreen is a non-toxic cleaner/degreaser.

KO KO

Thanks everybody. I am going to try to keep driving to a minimum until i can get a couple of the things fixed. I have a friend that might let me use his garage and some of his tools to fix it up.

I don't need this running perfect, that can wait. I just want to make sure its relatively safe to get me to and from work for now.

pb4ugotobed

Do yourself and your friend a favor... Buy some tools. It's not like you'll never need them again, and if you keep them in your truck you'll always have 'em with you just in case

KO KO

Will do on the tools, it never occured to me to get tools because at home I had almost any tool i wanted, but not in college.

I'm not sure, but is this the repair service manual you are referring to? Is there anywhere i can download it for free?

http://www.domesticsale.com/Classifieds/340520.html

pb4ugotobed

It's hard to tell without seeing the cover of the actual book itself. I know what the EWD looks like because I prefer that to the online version, However I'm fortunate enough to be a toyota tech, so I just log in to TIS and have everything I could ever ask for at my fingertips

peow130

Hey KO KO, for removing the MC i used a ratchet at size 14, with about 6 inches of extension. This helped so i could spin it all the wal around to take it off quicker.

Welcome to yotatech

KO KO

Ok, just a little update:

My friend's dad knows a thing or two about cars and trucks, so he is going to try and help me as much as he can, and he has all sorts of tools.

There apparently was nothing wrong with the horn, we just tapped it and it started working.

The gas pedal problem was that it was unable to completely pull on the throttle. Even when pressed to the floor, the full power could not be accessed. The spacer thingy (sorry I don't know what it was called) was split, so when the pedal was pressed, it went through the crack. Basically we just glued and taped it back together. Not a permanent fix, but it should last for quite a while.

The gear shift simply needs to be tightened. Its won't be a problem.

AC is fine, it just needs to be recharged.

Still not sure what to do about the brakes. My friend's dad doesn't think there is a bubble, but he isn't sure what it is.

He confirmed the high pressure line is leaking on the power steering.

He says not to worry about the fuel gauge. Its accurate when level for extended periods of time.

There has been one major bad development, the rear axle is slowly leaking fluid. The oil covers the back of the two rear wheels and wheel wells and the ends of the axle. How do I check the oil level and add more? How long can I hold off on taking it to the mechanic to get this fixed and how much might it cost?

Money is tight and would it be a smart decision to get some parts I need/might need from people who are parting out their 4Runner?

pb4ugotobed

You'll need a pair of axle seals. They aren't real expensive, or real hard to put on. Your are best off if using the proper seal installer, but it can be done other ways (it has to be pounded in place pretty good).

First, you'll need to take the rear wheels off, so get our your jack stands and pull 'em off. Then take the drums off your rear brakes. There are 2 10mm bolts that hold on the parking brake cable (that runs out through the back. Remove those 2 bolts and remove the cable from the brake assembly. You'll also need to disconnect the brake line off the back as well. To avoid too much fluid loss, i'd take a hose clamp (or vice grips can work) and pinch the line where it is rubber. Then disconnect the brake line. Then you will see 4 bolts (either 14mm or 17mm... i can't remember off the top of my head. I believe they're 14mm) connecting the axle housing to the back of the brake backing plate (and hub and everything else). After you remove those 4 bolts, you can grab the hub/brake/everything else and pull out the whole axle. Be sure youhave a drain pan or something under it because the gear oil will start to pour out the end of the axle housing.

You will see a seal going around the housing (that you will probably see tears or cuts in it, hence the leak). you can use a screwdriver and sorta pry the old seal out. be careful not to gouge the axle housing as it will be nearly impossible to get the new seal to seal if you do! Then you clean off around where the seal will go and make sure it's nice and smooth and clean. then take a little white grease (or axle grease, or whatever kind of grease you happen to have) and put it on the outside of your new axle seal. line it up in the axle housing and kinda lightly tap it into place (don't tap it too hard because if you get it crooked chances are you'll c up the new seal). Now you take your handy seal driver, line it up with the new seal, and using a large hammer whack it good. Don't be a bicth and tap on it, give it a good hard whack. Then smack it a couple more times so it's nice and flush.

Next you need to replace the BIG rubber O ring that goes around the outside of the axle housing (about 5 inches around.) You could alternatively FIPG it in, but that would make it a MUTHA to get the axle off again if you blow out another seal. Then you install everything in reverse sequence of disassembly.

There is a good chance you will need to clean your drums GOOD (if you don't do a light cut on a lathe) and replace your rear brake shoes. Many times when the axle seal goes, (especially if it's leaking bad) you'll find that the brake shoes are SOAKED in gear oil.

Make sure you bleed out your brakes real good after you're done, because you'll have lose enough fluid to leave you with absolutely no pedal at all. After replacing the shoes, you'll also probably have to do quite a bit of adjustment to that as well go gain your pedal back.

Good luck, and any other questions, ask away

And make sure the vent on the top of your rear diff is clear. A lot of times, especially when mud gets involved, that can clog up, and creates a bunch of pressure inside the rear axle housing and will blow out the seals.

KO KO

thanks for the detailed steps on how to fix the axle.
I have asked around and have discovered that one of my friend's dad used to work as a mechanic and has a great deal of tools lying around and will most likely be able to help me fix the leak. i'm going next sunday.

to sum up, here are what need to be fixed (has changed a bit):

**rear axle leaking
**brake isn't smooth, sometimes when i press it, it goes down smoothly, but other times it brakes short and hard but then clicks and goes smooth like it should
(sorry if this sounds dirty, but this is the best way to describe what is going on)
new development:
**sometimes when idling at a stoplight, the engine starts reving. the rmp at its lowest is about 200 rmp up to maybe 600 rmp. it seems to do this the most when a turn signal is on, but it also does it sometimes right when i first start the engine.
**high pressure power steering line still leaks (but i probably won't fix that until i have to, i'm currently just topping it off and it doesn't need it too often)


is there a site you guys recommend i get parts? most of the places i've been looking are rediculously expensive.

pb4ugotobed

I'd highly recommend OEM parts as much as possible. They will cost more than their aftermarket counterpart, but the quality is better, and you don't have to fight it to make it fit right. Spend a little extra money fixing it the first time, and you won't have to fix it again 6 months or a year down the road.


Sounds to me like you're gonna need a master cylinder soon.

The idle thing could be about a hundred different things. I'd start with the basics and work from there.

KO KO

I have taken the 4Runner to my friend's dad and he had a look at it.

This is what he says:

Master Cylinder is fine, but I need a new brake booster. He says this is why the brakes are funky and why the engine surges when I'm stopped at a light, to compensate for the vacuum not being complete.
- is there any way I can fix it? I've only found it at one place online and its super expensive.
He thinks that if its not just the rear axle seals that the bearing retainers may also need to be replaced. But he may know a guy willing to sell me a whole rear axle.

I have downloaded a service manual. But other than going to my friend's dad's place, I don't have anywhere to fix it, and he is only available once a week. Is there anything I can do, being that the majority of the time I am either in a parking lot or on the street, to prolong the life of the axle and brakes until I can get down and fix it?

I have been adding power steering fluid and got some axle oil and am going to try to put some in today.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Welcome to Yotatech.