eurojoe

Ok i get the gearing in relation to tire size and how that works.

are you sure about the size 28 tires? Everywhere i called and went to told me i cant go over 15" or else ill be rubbing my wheel wells. I even talked to the tore specialist at the toyota dealer.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Just to clear things up a little, the rim size does not determine the tire size. Most people (atleast ones in the cities) feel larger rims are an upgrade, they give more bling etc. Out here in the boonies it's the rubber around the rim that determines what the truck can do. Having said that, 25.5in vs 28in is 2.5in larger, so you need a clearance of 1.25in all the way around the tire including at full suspension compression. The 2wd trucks do sit lower, so the front end might have a possibility of rubbing. The rear is pretty open so clearance shouldn't be a problem there. Also a good note, the 2wd pickups have a narrower drive line, so turning the wheel to max wheel lock and checking the clearance to frame is likely your biggest interference. 4x4 trucks also had a fender that flared out about a inch wider, but the wheels stuck out something like 3 inches wider. Easiest way is to test fit a tire, but I know that's hard when you don't have a tire laying around to try.

I'll have to poke around and check what I have on hand for 2wd tires/rims. I have a 86 2wd long box xtra cab I could test fit larger tires on the front to atleast give ya an idea. Yours is a 89, so it's the next newer body style... let me look up factory tire sizes again cuz i looked at 86 factory sizes lol.

Biggest factory size (for tire height) for 2wd was 205 75 R14 at 26.1in tall and the smallest was the same at 25.5in. I also have a couple of the 89-95 pickup's around, but none that are 2wd and ready to test drive for testing the tire clearances.

Most shops are very against changing tire sizes since that effects braking, possible rubbing (like the frame at full wheel lock), and they don't want the liability in this sue happy world. The local Walmart wouldn't even mount tires on the rims my dad brought in because the size wasn't the exact factory size for the vehicle he was installing them on. Talking about that, that gear ratio thing hits the brakes too, so it's a thing to keep in mind. The T100 booster I was talking about is something like 25-30% extra boost, so the 10% harder the brakes have to work should still give you a net gain on braking performance.

I got wondering on this, so I ran out to a 95 pickup and it had the 25.5in tires, the 90 had the 26.1in tires. 28in would rub on the knuckle for the drag link steering setup. Could off set that effect with wheel spacers or a different offset rim (one that stick out further), but it's not like bigger tires is a major upgrade (unless it is to you). I think besides that, nothing else appears to be too close, but I was looking at a truck with the fenders off, the inner fenders (black plastic under the fenders) could be a rub spot. If you really wanted, you could run just the rear tires larger for the gearing effect and keep the stock size for the fronts. Pretty sure your flat bed would clear them, worst case you would have to make the deck height a little higher on it with some spacers. Like I said, that's what I did with my 86 2wd, but that was more for need of tires lol.

Speaking of tires, the rim bolt pattern matches a lot of stuff, Toyota Camry, newer (like 2006+) corolla, 90's jeep grand Cherokee, 90 era ford ranger and exploder... err explorer. So lots of possible options for a second set of rims if you like to have a spare set of tires, or winter and summer set. Just the big killer for fitment is the back spacing and center bore (hole in the center of the rim). It's a pickup so things are heavier built than some other machines (92-96 Camry rims are the right bolt pattern but the hole is too small for the front hub).

eurojoe

Wow, so much info on tire size. I appreciate your layman explanation so I can understand it. As for now I will keep my tires as is since I just bought them with rims for to much money LOL.

I was absent for a while, got super busy with a few projects at work and my truck had a more important issue that I had to take care of. The Exhaust Manifold had a HUGE crack in it! So I replaced the entire exhaust system from manifold to tailpipe, the catalytic converter when looking inside was falling apart, the Filter was literally broken into two pieces. and the muffler was always fizzling on idle and dripping water. Here are some pics so you can see my fix. Next up is continuing the leaf spring hunt and possibly airbag installation.

Also, I added a video of my wheel hub I believe rattling. Is that normal? I don't feel like it is normal and I swear I can feel it on the road.

New exhaust pics
http://imgur.com/a/wD00Q

exhaust upper half video

Exhaust lower half video

Wheel rattle video
https://youtu.be/QcqOzYyFHoc

^^^^^^^^^
anyone know if this is an issue or not?


IF YOU WANT TO SEE ANY SPECIFIC PICS OR VIDEOS LET ME KNOW

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Not at a pc with sound atm, but any rattle isn't "normal", if it's a problem or not I'm not sure. I watched the video and it looks like you're wiggling the rear axle. The bearing is pressed on the axle, and shouldn't move at all for in/out (or extremely little, no visual movement though like the video). I'd say to check the other side as well. Axle isn't too hard to remove, clear away the brake/parking brake cable/lines and on the back side of the dust cover there's 4 bolts per side. Once those are out, the whole axle should slide out. Bearing is between the plate that bolts to the axle housing and the axle shaft. Pretty easy job, but I did it on a yard beater with no parking brake or brake lines lol.

eurojoe

its definitely not the axle shaft moving just the hub attached onto the shaft itself. It is sliding in and out on the axle shaft while the axle shaft remains still.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

If it's the rear axle, the "hub" and axle shaft are 1 piece, if they move separate, I'd be even more concerned, and wonder how the wheel didn't fall off. A pic might work better to illustrate. #3 is the axle shaft, #9 is axle housing and #5 is the 4 bolt plate that allows the axle to slide out.

eurojoe

Well i think the bearing and its placeholders are loose and so the disc has play on the shaft. I will try and open it tomorrow and get some pics!

https://youtu.be/OJE35juQWM8
the video i will use as my guide

eurojoe

So I did not get around to the wheel bearings yet, but I did remove the valve cover and adjusted the valves, checked the timing chain and installed a new gasket. Here are some pics, I'm still trying to learn how to post pics efficiently on this site. Finishing a railing install tomorrow (not using this truck) than I will hopefully get to those damn bearings!

The timing chain guide was plastic, and it was cracked however it was still guiding the timing chain and the chain was VERY taut. Like an 1/8" of play. Figure I will leave it for after the summer goes by.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

From my understanding there are aftermarket timing chain guides that are metal backed. The plastic ones crack/break, and if/when the chain starts to get a little slack (there is a tensioner) the plastic breaks. If there gets to be enough slack in the chain, it can skip timing, which basically grenades the top end (valves can hit the pistons). Personally, I'd fix the guides asap, unless you dont mind the possible head replacement down the road. I suspect it will last for a little bit, but who knows how long.

How are you measuring the 1/8" of play? Is that how much the chain moves side to side, like how a drive chain is checked on an ATV, or are you able to turn the cam or crank that much before the chain moves the opposite shaft? If it's the wiggle room of the chain, I suspect that's pretty normal, but if it's the later one, sounds like you'd need a chain and would make sense why the guide is cracked.

The way you added photos works pretty well on this site for you and the viewers. There are 3rd party options, but this way the pics won't be missing down the road.

eurojoe

I measured the play as i moved it towards its inside with a screwdriver on the right side.

Yah i figure ill give it a change in the next few months i just dont want to remove the oil pan and radiator yet.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

I don't think the oil pan has to come off to do the timing chain job, never done it myself, but I've stripped engines down to the block and was able to leave the oil pan on in the process. There's 3 bolts from the oil pan you have to remove that goes into the timing chain cover and on newer trucks, it's RTV'ed, so kind of like being glued on.

eurojoe

From all the videos I have seen they remove the oil pan and radiator, now I am sure it is possible and i am the kind o person to try it without removing the oil pan. I am also the guy who would drop something INTO the oil pan. Here is the video of the engine sound:

eurojoe

So it passed smog real well!! I ordered Koyo brand rear wheel bearing kits so as soon as they come in I will post install pics!

eurojoe

Just like i said here is some footage of the rear wheel bearings.

eurojoe

Here are pics of the pieces all cleaned up.

I used acetone to clean up the gunk by soaking everything for a good hour in the sun and then wiping it off with a steel brush.

I used wd-40 and 200 grit sandpaper to wet-sand the rust off the steel mating surfaces.

Came out REAL NICE!

Waiting on Toyota to receive the paper gasket part for where the faceplate goes on the back of the "hub". $2.50 a piece NOT BAD for a stealership.

eurojoe

I was rushing to finish installation so I could make it to a jobsite. Everything went great! No more axle rattling and the steering is stiffer on the road! now to check my front bearings.

I Even put fresh fluid in the diff and new plugs and crush washers.

eurojoe

Any reason the engine sounds like this? Is this normal for a 22re? It seems to me something is off, it has a rumbling sound on acceleration and I swear it comes from the exhaust. Maybe my walker system is just cheap?