Ok so I have my newly installed clutch kit in and new slave cylinder, I had the flywheel surfaced. I bled the clutch and it is working but it doesnt engage till almost at the top. I adjusted the pedal and freeplay but still the same. I am wondering if the flywheel needed a bigger step down where the pressure plate bolts to, does anyone know how deep the step down is supposed to be, what else could cause this problem?? it doesnt feel like its slipping but i dont want to find out when i try to pull the boat out rather fix in now. hope someone can help.

 

Get under the vehicle and see if the release fork has some freeplay in it. You should be able to wiggle it back and forth a small amount, like a millimeter or two.

 

if not u might have 2 put like flywheel shims but if thats ur first time surfacing that flywheel then i dont know what 2 say

 

ok I will check the fork and see, will let you know.

 

did, you bleed out all the air out of the line with a vacum. if you changed out the slave cly.

 

If there was air in the line, it would be engaging right off the floor mat or before. This is the opposite.

 

I checked the fork, no play in the fork. i didnt bleed with a vacumm but did bleed it quite a bit because it was dirty. my dad works on imports for aliving and he helped bleed it. but he isnt sure what could cause the clutch to engage so high off the floor. di I need to adjust the fork or something??

 

I am not sure of the fix; though if you did not get a german or jap slave cyl, and are using a chinese one, you might wanna replace that one asap. if it is not coming off from the tranny fast enough, as in the piston not moving fast, but slowly backing back off, then replace it. get some help to look at it, especially after you have warmed it up after about 10 minutes, while idleing.
The problem you are describing, has thus far cost me 1 entire clutch kit assy., plus a tranny rebuild. the problem occurred, everything above had to be rebuilt again, no cost to me, wrrty., and then, about 2 weeks ago, it started up again, and now I am having all the stuff above, being rebuilt , for the 3rd time...
When I find out what my prob is, I will let you know. If you find out first, ding back here, and let me know!!!

 

If the release fork doesn't have any play when the clutch pedal is out, something is not adjusted right. I would doublecheck the clutch pedal freeplay. Get the pedal height close, then adjust the push rod until it has 1 to 2 mm of freeplay. Pump it a few times and then check the release fork again.

 

I agree with above dude totally; it needs to have a very small amt of freeplay, but it DEF NEEDS TO BE THERE, EVERYTIME YOU CHECK IT!!!
otherwise, it will keep the plate almost allways slightly pressed in, and you will begin to rub off the plate covering stuff; forget what it is called. it will however, smell all burnt rubbery as it comes off.

 

ok I will check free play again, maybe even try to rebleed the clutch again too. I will let you know what I find.

 

This really shouldn't be a bleeding issue. If there was air in the line, I think you would find the opposite, where the clutch would either not disengage all the way, or would start engaging as soon as the pedal started coming off of the floor.

To me, this sounds like the push rod is adjusted too tight (adjusted out, or longer). You should be able to move the push rod (attaches to the pedal under the dash) 1 to 2 millimeters. If not, adjust it looser (adjusted in, or shorter), and recheck.

 

you needed the shim for the flywheel. anytime you get it surfaced you have to to make the travel distance the same.

 

thats good to know!!! now that i have it all together. I did adjust the free play alittle and its better but still engages toward the top end of the travel. I will have to just drive it like this for a while and see how it goes. thanks for the tips.

 

yeah cougar; if it is engaging/disengaging at like the last inch of letout on the clutch pedal, which is what mine was doing, you are asking for trouble!!!!

 

u better get a shim, or you will have costly repairs.. . unless everything mic's out but i doubt it... just find a new flywheel..

 

Yea I am thinking the new flywheel is what I need, i dont think shimming the flywheel will help because thats just going to move the fork, it wont put more pressure on the friction plate, i think it needed a bigger step down on the flywheel. anyone have one to get a picture, i think my step was like 20 thousandths. a new flywheel is like 60 bucks so i guess i better get one and drop the tranny.

 

Speaking of clutches,Im getting new clutch kit,new flywheel,new rear main seal,new clutch master and slave cylinders.Parts and all installed for 810$,does that sound reasonable?

 

doesnt sound too bad but we dont know the quality of the parts you are getting.

 

I replaced my clutch back in August and had my flywheel resurfaced locally, it catches near the top but doesn't slip at all and about 6-7K miles later it's fine.
It has a new master and slave as well.
That's just my experience for what it's worth.