89 22re refuses to start, need help!
#21
Not yet, that's for tomorrow. I've been out there for about 5 hours a day for the last 3 days and if I had hair I'd have pulled it out by now. Waiting on a buddy with a meter to come out and help check some things....
I HATE electrical issues..
I HATE electrical issues..
#22
Very interesting situation you gots a brewing.
The low voltage will not fry the ECU, but I think you know that. What could have happened is that the regulator on the ALT went and decided to fry some stuff. Still unlikely but possible.
The redtop batteries really aren't batteries are they? I thought they were big solid state capacitors? Could be the bat but if you have a good alt it should let you push start it and then run off the alt. They don't run well like that but should run. Side note; I had a 78 280z that had the neg cable come off the battery and it ran but not right and the tach was going nuts.
The odd thing is that you can't push start it...I'd replace the ignition switch. Could also have finally fried a wire coming from that switch as well.
I'd also check for spark...well I guess you really can't unless you push it with the hood open and someone siting in the engine bay to watch for it. I don't recommend it.
The low voltage will not fry the ECU, but I think you know that. What could have happened is that the regulator on the ALT went and decided to fry some stuff. Still unlikely but possible.
The redtop batteries really aren't batteries are they? I thought they were big solid state capacitors? Could be the bat but if you have a good alt it should let you push start it and then run off the alt. They don't run well like that but should run. Side note; I had a 78 280z that had the neg cable come off the battery and it ran but not right and the tach was going nuts.
The odd thing is that you can't push start it...I'd replace the ignition switch. Could also have finally fried a wire coming from that switch as well.
I'd also check for spark...well I guess you really can't unless you push it with the hood open and someone siting in the engine bay to watch for it. I don't recommend it.
#24
You can also use a jumper cable and string it to the pos side of the bat to the main cable of the starter and see if it engages. Actually do it reversed and tap the top of the pos just to get it to turn.
That'll tell you if the starter and bat are good.
#25
Most auto parts stores are able to do a load test on a battery and they don't usually charge for it.
You can't measure DC amps with most multimeters...you need a DC current clamp (they actually measure millivolts and there is a conversion on most current clamps that says x# of millivolts dc = x# of amps dc. or you need to run the current directly through the meter and most multi meters can't handle the current that a starter draws.
A relay can be either normally open or normally closed and has 2 sides contact and coil. The coil side is an electromagnet consisting of a coil and plunger, the plunger is connected to a moving contact, when the coil is powered up it draws the plunger into it and the moving contact either makes with the stationary contact (normally open) or breaks from the contact (normally closed) The click that you hear is the contacts either making or breaking. With older larger relays the click was always audible, todays relays...not necessarily so. but you should feel the movement if you touch it when it operates.
There is nothing in an ECU that should click, if that's what you hear and feel then your ECU has a short and something is sparking across an air gap to a ground or another circuit.
You can't measure DC amps with most multimeters...you need a DC current clamp (they actually measure millivolts and there is a conversion on most current clamps that says x# of millivolts dc = x# of amps dc. or you need to run the current directly through the meter and most multi meters can't handle the current that a starter draws.
A relay can be either normally open or normally closed and has 2 sides contact and coil. The coil side is an electromagnet consisting of a coil and plunger, the plunger is connected to a moving contact, when the coil is powered up it draws the plunger into it and the moving contact either makes with the stationary contact (normally open) or breaks from the contact (normally closed) The click that you hear is the contacts either making or breaking. With older larger relays the click was always audible, todays relays...not necessarily so. but you should feel the movement if you touch it when it operates.
There is nothing in an ECU that should click, if that's what you hear and feel then your ECU has a short and something is sparking across an air gap to a ground or another circuit.
#26
man, i went through a problem similar to what you're going through.
i replaced my battery cables - neg and pos.
after reconnecting everthing, i got power to everything - interior lights, radio, etc.
i went to crank the engine and no joy.
i rechecked the connections but i was getting power to everything just wasn't starting/turning over the engine.
the battery was strong as i tested via a volt meter and measured over 12.x volts.
i even tried jumping it with my wife's 2k 4runner.
i could hear the starter relay clicking...
i researched, researched and researched some more.
because the '88 isn't my daily i wasn't in a rush.
i removed the starter and had it tested... it passed 3 outta 4 tests.
i reinstalled it and still not joy!
i remember reading somewhere that it was important to NOT tighten the bolt from the positive cable to the starter. and believe me, i had cranked that puppy down because i didn't want it coming loose.
well, i loosened it and bang - it started!
that's my story.
maybe try that?
joel
i replaced my battery cables - neg and pos.
after reconnecting everthing, i got power to everything - interior lights, radio, etc.
i went to crank the engine and no joy.
i rechecked the connections but i was getting power to everything just wasn't starting/turning over the engine.
the battery was strong as i tested via a volt meter and measured over 12.x volts.
i even tried jumping it with my wife's 2k 4runner.
i could hear the starter relay clicking...
i researched, researched and researched some more.
because the '88 isn't my daily i wasn't in a rush.
i removed the starter and had it tested... it passed 3 outta 4 tests.
i reinstalled it and still not joy!
i remember reading somewhere that it was important to NOT tighten the bolt from the positive cable to the starter. and believe me, i had cranked that puppy down because i didn't want it coming loose.
well, i loosened it and bang - it started!
that's my story.
maybe try that?
joel
#28
from what I understand those redtops are not made to be drained down all the way. You can damage the cells that way. A yellow top however.. is considered a deep cycle so it can be drained to near nothing and brought back without any problems. Have the battery load tested. Then go from there. Or borrow a friends battery and try starting it. That should rule out the battery completely. With a good battery you should be able to "jump" the starter by putting power to the signal wire and see if it turns the motor. I have heard of the starter signal wire going bad up into the engine harness. However start with a 100% for sure good tested battery.
#29
To totally bypass everything in your starting system, you'll have to run a wire from the battery positive to the signal wire on the starter. Just make sure the truck is in nuetral and the key is in the "on" position. You can make a remote starter using a momentary switch and a medicine bottle(ask me how I know....
). Obviously, if your battery is shot, then you will not get the amps needed turn that beast of 4 banger over.
Assuming your motor is actually freely turning over.......
). Obviously, if your battery is shot, then you will not get the amps needed turn that beast of 4 banger over.
Assuming your motor is actually freely turning over.......
#30
To totally bypass everything in your starting system, you'll have to run a wire from the battery positive to the signal wire on the starter. Just make sure the truck is in nuetral and the key is in the "on" position. You can make a remote starter using a momentary switch and a medicine bottle(ask me how I know....
). Obviously, if your battery is shot, then you will not get the amps needed turn that beast of 4 banger over.
Assuming your motor is actually freely turning over.......
). Obviously, if your battery is shot, then you will not get the amps needed turn that beast of 4 banger over.
Assuming your motor is actually freely turning over.......

Ran a wire from the signal wire to the batt and it fired up. It even started with the key twice before deciding not to anymore. So it's between the ignition and the starter somewhere, same symptoms I had months ago.
Looks like I'll either be building a remote switch or getting the hot shot from Summit. I'll start another thread about that.
Thank you EVERYONE! I tell you I was almost in tears when it finally started.
#35
That did it! IT LIIIIIIVVVVVVVVEEEES!!!
Ran a wire from the signal wire to the batt and it fired up. It even started with the key twice before deciding not to anymore. So it's between the ignition and the starter somewhere, same symptoms I had months ago.
Looks like I'll either be building a remote switch or getting the hot shot from Summit. I'll start another thread about that.
Thank you EVERYONE! I tell you I was almost in tears when it finally started.
Ran a wire from the signal wire to the batt and it fired up. It even started with the key twice before deciding not to anymore. So it's between the ignition and the starter somewhere, same symptoms I had months ago.
Looks like I'll either be building a remote switch or getting the hot shot from Summit. I'll start another thread about that.
Thank you EVERYONE! I tell you I was almost in tears when it finally started.

Now I'm gonna cry!!!!!

atleast ya gotter perculatin! that's what counts! glad ya stayed with it! hate to see ya push the old girl aside for a newer model......
#36

I was hoping he'd sell her, I'm up for a road trip! hahaha
It's good that he has the old girl going again.
#38
Just to clear things up, thanks to everyone who replied. You all helped keep me going at it instead of giving up. I replaced the ignition switch about an hour ago (44$ from Auto Zone) and so far it starts every time. While I was in there I also cut out the aftermarket alarm that never worked and surprise surprise my idle is now dead steady, it starts faster, and my gauges don't bounce around when the blinker is on anymore.
I was wondering if that alarm had anything to do with that.....
Thank you all again!!
I was wondering if that alarm had anything to do with that.....
Thank you all again!!
#39
DUDE!!!!! so HARSH!!!!!!!
LOL
WOW, cant even WHINE on here........whats a guy to do!

SERIOUSLY glad to hear the machine is up and runnering.....
#40


















