erik-
the stock efi manifold can handle far more than 150 HP. the limit is imposed by the ECU and AFM. you can convert to a MAF system with aftermarket engine control system such as SDS.
just another thought.

 

I'll be spending a grand, plus or minus a few. I don't know about you, but I'm a picky son of a gun, and I couldn't build a bad ass motor that puts out the HP number that I want, for a grand. But cool thought nontheless, thumbsup

 

What 'about' the ECU limits it? Stupid question? =D

abecedarian, I'm new with these motors, so thanks for the explanations and the help, greatly appreciated and I can only learn from here on.

 

get a cam & head from EB for around 650. Then buy the header from LCE or Downey, and eventually do the rest of your exhaust.

You could get crazy and gasket match everything, dink around with valve timing, Air-Fuel ratios, ignition timing, for relatively cheap if you are good with tools & FSM`s.

my .02

 

Thats true, but as condrodictive as it sounds, I kind of want to keep the head I have, I don't feel like spending another 4 hours on swapping it out. I just did the head gasket 8,000 miles ago =}

 

even though people claim the AFM is a restricion, the AFM can meter air up to about 150% of the requirement of the 22re. (If anyone wants to chime in and counter my claim, this is the perfect point to do so.)
Given the AFM can measure approximately 150% of the airflow to a 22re, it stands to reason that it can compensate for about 6-7 PSI boost (draw-through the afm) which would equate to an approximate 50% boost in power.
The ECU limits it because it depends on the signal from the AFM and to some extent, the feedback from the O2 sensor.
The injectors are designed (specified) to deliver a certain amount of fuel, even at wide-open-throttle.
You end up hitting the point where the fuel injectors can only deliver X amount of fuel. Any more than that, the ECU cannot compensate for, and the 22re ECU is not aware that other injectors can be used... okay, maybe it is, but then you start making the AFM less sensitive which makes the ECU rely more on the O2 sensor... and ...
am I really trying to explain this?

 

I'm weird, I'd rather spend some play money on the cam and header, then when I'm real serious, I'll just built me a nice pumper motor.

 

well, you just bought your thread.
given money and time, you can pull > 1000 HP out of a 22r/e engine.
so have fun.

 

but on the odd chance... beeman... been around Bechtel?

 

If you are running that kind of compression, whether is a small gasket or not, your cam timing is off. I'd recommend a cam and LCs adjustable camgear.
My truck specs are in my sig.
I milled the head and cut the block, it threw off my cam timing, and the cam gear was the last thing I did a few weeks after the break in, and WOW what a difference. It really pulled all my previous mods together

 

True, valve timing would be off if the head gasket was way thinner, kinda like having a head milled & compensating to find TDC when reassembling things...

Beeman, if you put a cam in you probably need new rockers, and you probably will have to replace the head gasket because of how far you are getting into the head. You might as well put in new timing chain guides or even a whole timing chain kit depending on how many miles are on it.

Some people have put in new cams without doing the HG or rockers, it just depends on what shape things are in.

 

AZ, the cam kit comes with rockers and heavier valve springs, it's kinda the whole deal. As for the head gasket, like I had mentioned earlier, I just did it about 8,000 miles ago, everything is fresh there. :thumbsup:

 

As already noted, you have a serious case of cam retard. Probably close to 10 degrees. You must fix that with an adjustable cam gear which is about $100. Or, as I did, the cam gear has 36 teeth. 360/36+10 deg per tooth. I simply took a chain saw round file and created a new slot in the gear to match the cam dowel pin to reposition the cam timing. Installed the cam gear and checked my timing. Made a BIG difference.

My $0.02

 

My timing is on spot.

 

How? Its not with that gasket and compression...

 

ignition timing can be correct, but that does not mean the camshaft is properly timed. you can adjust the ignition timing, but cannot adjust the camshaft.

 

I'm not being rude, nor smart ass, but how is it NOT? It's set up with a timing light, spot on, after doing my head gasket. On top of that, while in the process of doing the head gasket, nothing was turned over (motor parts wise), so the piston at TDC was taken apart, and matched back up perfectly. But, after I finished, I put the timing light to it and boom, it's purdy. As far as my knowledge goes the motor has never been pulled apart before me.

On the other hand, if the timing is retarded, can't I just turn the distributor. There is that adjusting nut.

 

Ok, distributor is the ignition timing...my bad.



How can a motor run smoothly, strongly, hiccup-lessly....with it 10+ degrees off. Doesn't make sense.

 

take a string and make a loop
move the top of the loop closer to the bottom, keeping the right side of the loop tight
what happens to the string?
you get slack on the left, correct?
the string is your timing chain
the slack is taken up on the back side (the left side)
the top of the loop rotates counter-clockwise since the slack is on the back side (that's your cam)
so the cam timing become 'retarded' or occurs later than it should

make sense?

 

completely lost....