OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

I have an 87 4runner 22re 5 sp rebuilt 5000 miles ago. Been running great no problems up until last week. When the truck has been ran weather a short distance or long trip and warms up, if I shut it off and try to start it, it will fire after 3 attempts to start. Turns over fine, and once it fires it runs great. When the truck is cold and has been sitting, fires the first time no problem

fuel pump new 3 yrs ago
o2 new at rebuild
ecu new at rebuild (dont ask lol)
no vacum leaks that i can detect
new tps at rebuild
new TB
new Intake
New headers all at rebuild
afm seems to be working properly but I have not check with MM
COR is audible at start up and shut of (i can hear it clicking)

Weird thing is, It seems to start fine on the first turn over when its warm if and only if I turn the key without the clutch engaged and let the fuel pump "prime". So, new fuel pump again? or is it possible my o2 is jacked and giving a bad reading when the truck is hot thus telling the ecu not to give enough fuel to fire the truck?

Any direction on things to check would be awesome,
I am just kind of at a loss for where to go without just dumping money into it.

angrybob

Take a look at the attachment here...

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Bob,

Thanks for the link and information, I will start check the booster out after work....will update with what I find!

angrybob

Whoops.

There is a .pdf file attached in a comment on that other thread - this one. It is the TSB for long cranking condition for the 22RE. Its not related to the booster discussion. Given what you have already stated in the OP, thie attachment may be your fix.

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Bob,

Tested the booster and vacum is great. I got the TSB from the other thread and was going over it, however they don't give any detail as far as testing my exsiting CS time switch or Temp switch. Would these just be tested with a multi meter and check for resistance measurements or would this just be a buy and replace type of part? Dealer wants 94.46 for the Temp switch and 143.83 for the CS time switch ouch..

angrybob

This is what I used to check mine:

click here

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Bob,

Your knowledge has been most helpful! I truly appreciate the time you have taken to help me out. I am going to test the system as soon as I can. Again, THANK YOU!

sharpy46

let me know how yu make out plz im havin the same issues with a 3.0l v6 thanks

angrybob

This specific cold start injector and timer fix are only for the 22RE as far as I can tell.

sharpy46

yes i know bob....but even still if the same components on my 3.0 were faulty it could cause the same symptoms i assume.

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

The fix does relate to 22re's and RTE's, however a similar problem on the 3.0 could have a similar fix maybe.

Not that it matters for you but the part number for the temp sensor on the thermo housing is not available anymore, the dealer just refers you back to the old part number. I do have one of these sensor's laying around that is new and will be changing it saturday morning. However I pulled the access panel to the fuel pump and it seems to be making some loud noises.

When my truck gets hot it seems like it needs to build pressure and you can almost hear that happening with the panel off. I have good visual pressure up at the CSI (no problems with cold start) so I would assume this means the system is staying pressurized. It almost like the pump itself is not holding pressure, if it even does that?

Gonna round up some diagnostic tools and head out to a buddys shop saturday to try and rattle this demon out. I will keep this thread update as I find stuff out

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

so after some trouble shooting, the issue has led me back to my fuel pump and maybe my o2 sensor.

First the fuel pump kicks on when the key is turned like it should, however when the motor is hot, or its just hot outside, the pump kicks on and has this kind of high pitch sound, after about 8-10 seconds of the key being turned on but not turning the motor over you will hear the pump almost pressurize (the best i can explain) and the noise goes away. I though that there may be a small leak somewhere but I have been unable to trace it. I have plenty of pressure at the csi and it seems there is good pressure at the rail. I do have a bosch pump so I am going to replace with a denso anyways. Hopefully this will fix the issue.

The o2 was new with the rebuild but I had an ecu problem shortly after and the truck was running really rich. I am getting an o2 sensor code from diagnostics so this will be replaced as well.

I am going to run the pump for a couple of weeks, til I get some cash, but also to see if there is any chage as far as longevity of the problem. Does it get worse as time goes on, or does it just stay the same.

any input or advice or hey check this is welcome!

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Bob,

Not sure if your following this, but I was unable to get the multi meter to rule this out, However I did have a new thermo switch laying around so, I may just go ahead and replace. I have not check the intake temp sensor but will do so when I get the multi meter

angrybob

Funny. I checked my other one this weekend and it too was FUBAR. I'm in AZ and have the cold start problem, but "cold" is really not a problem here so I have left mine alone for the time being. I bought some other parts from a guy and he threw one in. I now know it is also bad...resistance is too high.

Check it before you spend any add'l time or money. It seems to be a common problem...common enough for a TSB to be issued.

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

I have the resistance for the cold start time switch, do you happen to know hot and cold resistance for the temp switch 2, the one that is on top of the thermo housing?

This is the one I have new but was curious on the resistance so I can check the old one? I just can't seem to locate the info anywhere....

angrybob

Nope. The only thing I have found is the *functional test*. That is, after the vehicle has sat overnight pull the injector and turn the ignition on. If fuel is squirting out it works.

I hope you're not a smoker

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Fair enough, nah not a smoker hahaha, I will pull the injector and test this weekend, although I would venture to guess that it is working fine since the truck will start right off the bat when cold...I suppose if it was bad though the sensor could be telling the ecu the truck is cold when infact it is warm thus giving to much fuel and causing a hard start problem...hmmm checking checking checking is what I shall do saturday! Thanks again for your info Bob, most helpful!

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

well still have not had a chance to track down the multimeter, but I had a suggestion from 4crawler to try the fuel pump jumper. I did this and it does NOT seem to make a differance. So I would assume at this point I should still be looking at the Fuel pump as the most likley culprit?

I am still going to test the cold start time switch and the temp senson on the thermo housing to see if those test out ok before I move ahead.

Would a bad O2 sensor cause this type of problem without any weird idle or surging issues?

opinions are welcome!

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

got ahold of the multi meter and was able to test my cold start time switch. results as follows:

sta-stj 53 ohms (hot above 104)

sta-ground 73 ohms (hot above 104)

still need to test cold, but again I dont have any problems with cold starts so I can assume this sensor should test out fine cold.

I have fuel spraying when cold when I pull my csi so I can assume that my temp switch on the thermo housing is working properly as well.

going to swap a known good o2 tonight just incase my ecu problem after the rebuild blew my new one..

If I see no results after that I may resort to a new FP. I still believe that my FP is giving me some problems and it kind of sounds funny sometimes..

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

So its about 20 degrees cooler here today, truck started normal this am as in it started right up like it always has on cold start. Went out a few minutes ago and fired it up again, by this time when its 90+ degrees out is when i have problems, but since its only 70ish it started just fine.....

could the fuel pump be affected by outside temp? almost leaning towards the AFM since it has a temp sensor in there as well? will test AFM in the next day or two.