'86 REC Rebuild Problems
#1
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'86 REC Rebuild Problems
I rebuilt my '86 SR5 22REC pickup engine [lower end only] after 5 years under a hemlock tree [the truck, not me]. All new just about everything including ignition stuff. I set the "0" on the balancer and the mark on the cam journal to the shiny link on the chain, my buddy checked it and I checked it again when I adjusted the valves. I'm about ready to park it back under the hemlock. The engine has no nut at all until about 2500RPM and even then it's WAY under powered. Any ideas?
#3
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Yup. In the book the timing spec was 6° but I couldn't even get it out of the driveway without 4X low range. At 12° the ends of the plugs turned white. It's now at 8° so at least I can get it back up the driveway. Forgot to mentione, it seems as though the cold start circuit isn't functioning. Barely idles when cold and idles at 2000RPM when warmed up.
#4
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I bet your dist. is 180* off. Take out your dist. and put the rotor at 12 o'clock. Then put in the dist again and the rotor should rotate back to 10 o'clock. Then set the timing again with your light and it should be good.
#5
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Would it even run at 180° off? When I put the distributor in I set the balancer at 0° and checked that both valves on #1 were closed. I then rotated the rotor until it lined up with #1 plug wire. It started on the second crank but it was obvious that something wasn't right, right off. I set the advance at 6° then 12° and finally back to 8°.
#7
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Would it even run at 180° off? When I put the distributor in I set the balancer at 0° and checked that both valves on #1 were closed. I then rotated the rotor until it lined up with #1 plug wire. It started on the second crank but it was obvious that something wasn't right, right off. I set the advance at 6° then 12° and finally back to 8°.
Now for 22r's you put the dist. in at 0*BTDC. Many people confuse this and they wonder why they have no power in there truck.
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#9
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At 8* you should be able to at least drive the truck. Try some fine tuning by rotating the dist.
To tell for sure if you have a ECU controlled dist., is there a green plug running from the coil to the dist then from the dist to the ECU? If there is then the ECU is controlling the dist. If there is a vaccume hose running off it then you have a 22R dist. on a 22re motor and they will not work with each other. That might be your problem.
To tell for sure if you have a ECU controlled dist., is there a green plug running from the coil to the dist then from the dist to the ECU? If there is then the ECU is controlling the dist. If there is a vaccume hose running off it then you have a 22R dist. on a 22re motor and they will not work with each other. That might be your problem.
#10
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Thread Starter
OK, there are the two green connectors you've described so it is ECM controlled. I was wrong.
At 12° advance it runs but still not much power and I was afraid I'd burn the side wires off the plugs. After only 15 miles, the plug tips were white.
At 12° advance it runs but still not much power and I was afraid I'd burn the side wires off the plugs. After only 15 miles, the plug tips were white.
#11
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You have to set it at 5* BTDC, then it should advance on its own 10-14* BTDC, not 12 to 14. I like to check it with a timing light at idle, then again to make sure it has advanced properly.
And our spelling lesson of the day is vacuum.
And our spelling lesson of the day is vacuum.
#13
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So exactly what I said.
And as far as spelling goes, that's why I have a secretary. I don't worry about proper grammer on a forum, typing from a blackberry. Don't be that guy!! Furthermore you knew what I was talking about so ...
#14
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10-14 that is a pretty big range, and where is exactly 10* at? I see 12 and 14*. To the op, it's 12-14* when not jumped in the diag. box. Here is a picture for reference
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...n/image011.jpg
#15
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Haha I know I was agreeing with you and don't get to emotional about the spelling comment, I was answering NH about the range...
You're right again, that is a large range, if it is within that range you should be fine. There is no 10* mark, but if its between 8* and 12* then that's close enough.
And back to NH's ?, you set the crank to 5* while the engine is off
snobds had a good explination: "Yea, the rotor should be at 12 o'clock when you put in the dist., then it will rotate by itself back to 10 o'clock or #1 plug wire. If you set the rotor at #1 and then put it in it will not be in the correct spot. Also if you look at the FSM, it will tell you to put the crank at 5*BTDC and then put in the dist. Don't put the dist. in while the engine is at 0* BTDC, always at 5* BTDC for 22RE's."
You're right again, that is a large range, if it is within that range you should be fine. There is no 10* mark, but if its between 8* and 12* then that's close enough.
And back to NH's ?, you set the crank to 5* while the engine is off
snobds had a good explination: "Yea, the rotor should be at 12 o'clock when you put in the dist., then it will rotate by itself back to 10 o'clock or #1 plug wire. If you set the rotor at #1 and then put it in it will not be in the correct spot. Also if you look at the FSM, it will tell you to put the crank at 5*BTDC and then put in the dist. Don't put the dist. in while the engine is at 0* BTDC, always at 5* BTDC for 22RE's."
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Haha I know I was agreeing with you and don't get to emotional about the spelling comment, I was answering NH about the range...
You're right again, that is a large range, if it is within that range you should be fine. There is no 10* mark, but if its between 8* and 12* then that's close enough.
And back to NH's ?, you set the crank to 5* while the engine is off
snobds had a good explination: "Yea, the rotor should be at 12 o'clock when you put in the dist., then it will rotate by itself back to 10 o'clock or #1 plug wire. If you set the rotor at #1 and then put it in it will not be in the correct spot. Also if you look at the FSM, it will tell you to put the crank at 5*BTDC and then put in the dist. Don't put the dist. in while the engine is at 0* BTDC, always at 5* BTDC for 22RE's."
You're right again, that is a large range, if it is within that range you should be fine. There is no 10* mark, but if its between 8* and 12* then that's close enough.
And back to NH's ?, you set the crank to 5* while the engine is off
snobds had a good explination: "Yea, the rotor should be at 12 o'clock when you put in the dist., then it will rotate by itself back to 10 o'clock or #1 plug wire. If you set the rotor at #1 and then put it in it will not be in the correct spot. Also if you look at the FSM, it will tell you to put the crank at 5*BTDC and then put in the dist. Don't put the dist. in while the engine is at 0* BTDC, always at 5* BTDC for 22RE's."
#17
Registered User
You take a 19mm socket on a ratchet, put it on the crank, and manually turn the crank pulley to the 5* mark. (distributor is not on yet)
Make sure that you set it to true TDC before setting it to 5* BTDC. At TDC (the 0 mark on the oil pump lines up with the groove on the crank) the rocker arms of cylinder #1 should be loose. If they are not, turn the crank pulley a full rotation, then recheck, you should be at TDC then.
Now, manually turn the crank to 5* BTDC, then install the distributor. Read snobds explination, its what you need to know about installing the distributor at this point
Now, you install your timing light, short terminals T and E1 of the check connector, turn engine on, and check to see that @ idle (750 RPM manual trans, 800 RPM auto trans) it is at 5* BTDC.
If at idle your 22R-E is at 5* BTDC, thats good! Now, un-short the test connectors, and see that the ignition timing advances between 10 and 14*. This is that acceptable range that I mentioned earlier.
If you haven't done this before, I recommend downloading the FSM for your truck here: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
Good luck and take your time you can do it
Make sure that you set it to true TDC before setting it to 5* BTDC. At TDC (the 0 mark on the oil pump lines up with the groove on the crank) the rocker arms of cylinder #1 should be loose. If they are not, turn the crank pulley a full rotation, then recheck, you should be at TDC then.
Now, manually turn the crank to 5* BTDC, then install the distributor. Read snobds explination, its what you need to know about installing the distributor at this point
Now, you install your timing light, short terminals T and E1 of the check connector, turn engine on, and check to see that @ idle (750 RPM manual trans, 800 RPM auto trans) it is at 5* BTDC.
If at idle your 22R-E is at 5* BTDC, thats good! Now, un-short the test connectors, and see that the ignition timing advances between 10 and 14*. This is that acceptable range that I mentioned earlier.
If you haven't done this before, I recommend downloading the FSM for your truck here: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
Good luck and take your time you can do it
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