osv

the connectors from the "back door control switch"(per schematic) to the relay box behind the drivers seat plug into 11 & 12 on the box... you have to decide if it's a bad switch, or one of the four relays inside the box... so unplug the connector, and put an ohmmeter across 11 & 12... it should show either zero resistance, or infinite resistance, depending on what position it's in.

if the settings don't change when you turn the key, it's probably a bad switch, and you'll have to tear into the tailgate :-/ which I have never done, it's intimidating.

if the settings change with key actuation, it's possibly a bad relay, or one of the diodes in there... if you are going to change one relay, might as well change 'em all... or swap in another used relay box.

at least you should be able to get into the general area, please let us know the results of the resistance test.

1stGenYoda

your talking about the little device with the red and black wires coming out of it with the meter on it??

1stGenYoda

OK! so I finally got time to upload the pictures!

Here it is


Here is the end result ( the morning after installation )


YAY! I can actually see my overload spring




Now just under 8" from tire to metal in the back


And just over 6 1/2" in the front, little bit of a rack but they still need to settle


Oh also I pulled a tow hook at pick-a-part, and got that installed

NOTE: if you are thinking about pulling a hook make sure you grab the bolts off the donor truck as well because they are significantly longer

I still have her on "garaged" status, so I cant drive it around to settle the spings till next week, ill let you guys know what they settle too.

osv

yes, lol, carry one with you in the truck at all times:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-92020.html

that 4runner looks pretty straight!

1stGenYoda

Thanks, and thats the bad side lol

So I looked it up and, I have one already, my question to you is what setting do I put it to when trying to read the resistance? and where to put the red and black wire? red on 11 and black on 12 or what?

This is the one I have

osv

analog meter! that thing is a classic, hang on to it... x1k that it's on right now would be fine.

get used to how to test for resistance by touching the tips together... dead short is when they are touched, it's zero resistance, pull 'em apart it's infinite resistance(needle doesn't move).

there is no polarity in that kind of a test, but you'll have to have someone operate the switch, or you'll have to run extension wires back to the tailgate.

1stGenYoda

Haha I got it in a trade! anyways thanks for the info!

I should have time to do the test tomorrow after work

when I put the tips together I get a slight movement, is that whats suppose to happen and is that what im looking for in zero resistance?

osv

if you look at the ohms scale on the meter, I think that it's the top green line, hard to tell from the pic... zero ohms is all the way to the right, if i'm reading it correctly.

that means that when the tips of the leads are touched together, we know that there is zero resistance, so the needle should slam all the way over to zero resistance.

maybe try replacing the battery, or worst case, go get one of those $5 digital multimeters from harbor freight.

1stGenYoda

Ok, ya when I touch the tips it goes to the 1k mark I think (right next the the infinite resistance mark)

How would one replace the battery on it? I didnt see any screws on it, although I wasnt looking for them, just looking at it trying to figure out what I could use it for haha

osv

there could be screws on the battery cover, or maybe a slide panel in the back... it could also mean that the unit is shot.

since we know that zero resistance is at the 1k mark, tho, we know that if you get a 1k reading on the back door key switch, it's probably fully closed, which should mean that it's probably o.k.

1stGenYoda

ok so I test it no power it should read infinite or "zero" (1k) then turn the key and if it still reads infinite or "zero" then I got to tear into the tail gate? just making sure I got the process down

osv

I picture it as being: unplug 11 & 12 from the relay box, engine off, all power off, put a meter lead on each of those connectors, *on the wire side, not the relay box side*, and the needle shouldn't move... that's infinite, just like if you weren't touching the meter leads together.

when someone turns the rear window relay key, the meter needle should move over to 1k, because it's now zero resistance, same thing as touching the meter leads together.

let us know what happens! or if you see something different from the above.

1stGenYoda

Ok lol sonds easy enough, I should beable to post with in the next two hours!

1stGenYoda

Ok so the resistance test brought some bad news for me at least. I unplugged the relay from the cords, then per the schematic I plugged the wires into 11 & 12 (blue - white & blue - black) with no power it read infinite resistance, and while turning the key both left and right the meter read still infinite resistance.

meaning that there is something wrong with the switch or wiring?

osv

I think that I calculated the test wrong :-/ I just looked at the schematic again, do you see where the path comes out of the back door control switch(u for up and d for down), and goes through the cover top switch and the door lock detection switch, then to ground(short horizontal lines)?

we tested for a short(1k on the meter) between u and d(11 & 12), when we should have been testing for a short(1k on the meter) between u and ground, or d and ground, as you turn the key.

can you try that? power off... ground would be some bare metal around that area where the relay box is.

i'd try it from here, but no one is around right now, and i'm in transmission h*ll... can't seem to split these dual cases.

1stGenYoda

Ok so your saying find the U and D and hold the positive (red) to U and the negative (black) to the ground (being a peice of metal)? Then the same for the D red to the D and black to ground?

osv

yes, that's it, I should have seen it the first time around :-/

1stGenYoda

Ok ill try that after work, ill also take pictures this time

Ill let you know how it goes, also just a question, when you say 1k your mean zero resistance correct? but your saying 1k because right now 1k is my zero resistance?

osv

yes, it looks like 1k equals zero resistance on that meter... very confusing!

1stGenYoda

Ya I don't know if there's something wrong with the meter or what, never used one before haha

is there a way to test the meter to see if the needle will go past 1k (might be stuck or something) see if it reads something else correctly?