you haven't been watching my thread, have you

lol

thanks buddy!

 

I've been watching....... I'll just hold all my comments until I see the video of that rig fired up and running.


All joking aside man I am damn proud of you for taking on such a large task on a vehicle that I know you hate not being able to drive.

 

lol, hopefully very soon; the long block's getting set in next week, and then things will really start to come together


yeah it's killing me not to be able to cruize around in my baby... I feel so insignificant in this stock little itty bitty blue 2wd GMC Sonoma


t'will be a glorious day to get back 'hind the wheel of thy Yota

 

I forget wich bolts I used for mounting the block to the stand they came off of the motor somewhere, I think the cam bolt is just right and I have 3 '85-'86 blocks here, so I believe I used a couple cam bolts and a couple Bell Housing Bolts.

Hawk4295

 

I wish I had known about your rod, I have atleast a dozen rods here I'm not ever going to use. They're free for any Yota luver!! Also have Cranks (2) same deal!!

I used PermaTex ULTRA SLICK engine assembly lube Item # 81950 It's real slick and STICKY!! Reminds me of bar and chain lube for a chain saw, betcha could use that stuff too.

HAWK4295

 

I had to run down to the hardware store and pic up some long bolts and a bunch of washers, cause my stand is ghey

 

I was trying to copy an LC Engineering motor, inside and out, so the block is black and the valve cover is Red.

I also installed a dual timing chain conversion with an adjustable cam gear, and METAL timing chain guides instead of the plastic ones. I've replaced TOO DAMN MANY plastic timing chain guides!!!! I wish I'd known about them years ago!!! They're plastic/rubber covered metal....

When you use grease for removing pilot bearing, the dowel HAS TO BE sooo close to the size of the hole, but can't be grabbing the bearing, if it's too small you'll have grease coming out between the bearing and the dowel, if it's nice and tight the grease WILL push the bearing out.

My machine shop boiled the block and bored it 80 over for $125.00...OH YEAH, they painted it TOO!!! Head Porting and valve job was $75.00

I had to clearance the block inside. When we turned the crank around #1 and #4 hit the side of the block!! Wasn't too bad though, to get the Stroker Crankshaft to work.

I also put in a remote oil filter kit and an oil cooler in front of radiater. Power steering fluid cooler too, with AMSOIL ATF in the system.

Break-in was done with Castrol GTX 20W-50 oil was changed at 20 miles exactly, after WOT runs up to 60mph and engine braking i.e. let off gas pedal, at least a dozen runs up to 60 and let offs. (sets the rings properly)IMO. Then I changed it again after another 100 miles, then again after another 100 miles or so. (Filters each time also)

I'll be switching to AMSOIL (ZINC) 20W-50 or AMSOIL RACING 15W-50 after another oil change. Both are SYNTHETIC as are all of AMSOIL's lubes. I already run AMSOIL ATF in power steering and AMSOIL severe gear 75W-110 in transmission and transfer case, and severe gear synthetic SAE 190 in differentials. (5.29's W/ LocRights)

Also had to have tranny rebuilt, needed a new 3-4 slider and hub gear, new synchros since it was open, and a new input shaft and bearing, new midshaft bearing, all new seals.

HAWK4295

 

I used ARP fasteners; ARP Head studs, ARP Main cap studs, ARP Rod bolts. I just felt the strength was worth it. (replacing stock) That may be where I got the bolts from for the stand...

HAWK4295

 

I painted it cast coat iron DE1651 from duplicolor. Installed freeze plugs, use permatex #1 if any of you are doing this yourself .

 

Got the crank,pistons,rear seal, timing cover, and oil pump installed.

 

Timing cover pictures. Oil pans next.

 

a lot of these pics look all too familiar

good job man; looking really good so far!

 

More pictures. I got the oil pan,waterpump, and some brackets put on. Took the head down to the machine shop and I should get it back next week. The plan was to get a engnbldr head but my old head looks in good enough shape.

 

pretty clean motor, do bad it's going into a vehicle that you have to use off-road

 

daaaang! look'n nice!


dropping my motor in is postponed for a week due to getting an incorrect clutch from MC so you have time to catch up to me

 

Got the head back form the machine shop. Hot tanked , valve job, surfaced, and number three spark plug helicoiled all for $170

 

Heres the head on the block with 268 cam installed.

 

we could swapt a few brackets and my motor would be completely RED, lol


looking good man!


anyone else notice there's a lot of 22re rebuild threads going on right now, lol

 

Heres some more pictures with some brackets and misc installed. Just need to adjust valve lash. The last picture is the lower intake after I took the gasket off using a bench grinder with a brass wire wheel. Yes its still flat I checked it with a straight edge.

 

I dont know that might give you too much red,lol
I have noticed that there have been some rebuild threads going on.

I got my bottom intake cleaned and painted today, I even buffed the inside of the runners, now it looks like new on the inside no carbon or oil. I will post pictures tonight.