3VZE Spark Plugs, Which one do you use?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cantley, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3VZE Spark Plugs, Which one do you use?
I know everyone says Denso / NGK and not to use Bosh, but there's so many choices for the NGK and Denso for this engine. Which one do you use?
NGK
NGK Standard BKR5ES (2460)
NGK V-Power BKR5EYA (2087)
NGK G-Power BKR5EGP (7090)
Iridium IX BKR5EIX (6341)
Denso
Denso Traditional spark plug K16R-U (3119)
Denso Iridium plug IK16 (5303)
Denso Double platinum PK16R8 (3301)
And what plug gap do you guys recommend stock .032 ?
BTW: I've searched the forums for specifics; so please no flamming.
NGK
NGK Standard BKR5ES (2460)
NGK V-Power BKR5EYA (2087)
NGK G-Power BKR5EGP (7090)
Iridium IX BKR5EIX (6341)
Denso
Denso Traditional spark plug K16R-U (3119)
Denso Iridium plug IK16 (5303)
Denso Double platinum PK16R8 (3301)
And what plug gap do you guys recommend stock .032 ?
BTW: I've searched the forums for specifics; so please no flamming.
#2
I use the "V" power in my 2wd 3.0. Price is right. Don't feel a more expensive plug is justified for a stock 3.0. Stock gap. I tried Bosch with poor result and went back to "V" power.
Last edited by Kutter; 02-23-2007 at 07:24 AM.
#5
Registered User
I would usew th NGK V Power plugs. Never ever put anything besides NGK in the 3.0. I had issues with Bosch platinums before. *edit* Had trouble with Champions too, it didn't run good at all. Basically I would stay away from Bosch anything on this vehicle.
Last edited by rezrunner92; 02-23-2007 at 09:22 AM.
The following users liked this post:
idanity (11-05-2021)
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
What? Nobody for Denso yet? I'm using them in the '92 and NGK cables. In the '86 (22re), NGK plugs and cables. I've not noticed any appreciable differences between either brand and have used both on both vehicles. I just won't use anything else but either of those two.
#9
I currently looking into the ACCEL U-groove plugs as option, to the NGK V power, which I love. I believe ACCEL is good stuff, I have thier 8mm super stock wires with intent on purchasing the ACCEL super coil E-coil.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Minnesota, USA
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SO its now 2010... Anybody else care to add experience with other plugs? I have comments. Bought my 4runner 35K miles ago and have yet to replace the plugs.
The gent I bought my runner from mentioned putting Iridium plugs in at the last tune up (15K miles previous) and said they should last 3-4 times that. I gave him a raised brow look as he went on about his qualms of replacing them in this motor (3vze). No disrespect to the man but I like to keep things running like a top and planned to look at them before I bought the truck. I took out my ratchets and inspected them. A few of them needed a MINOR gap adjustment but I must say looked very well for 15K (If that's REALLY when they where last replaced, but none the less looks used).
I've pulled them now a handfull of times during modifications and other maintenence and they STILL appear to be in good shape. Don't get me wrong; I've never spent money for higher end plugs however - they did get me to comment.
The gent I bought my runner from mentioned putting Iridium plugs in at the last tune up (15K miles previous) and said they should last 3-4 times that. I gave him a raised brow look as he went on about his qualms of replacing them in this motor (3vze). No disrespect to the man but I like to keep things running like a top and planned to look at them before I bought the truck. I took out my ratchets and inspected them. A few of them needed a MINOR gap adjustment but I must say looked very well for 15K (If that's REALLY when they where last replaced, but none the less looks used).
I've pulled them now a handfull of times during modifications and other maintenence and they STILL appear to be in good shape. Don't get me wrong; I've never spent money for higher end plugs however - they did get me to comment.
Last edited by BeenYota; 08-30-2010 at 10:44 AM.
#12
Registered User
My 89 3VZE runs best on the stock Denso K16RU. In the 15 years I've owned it, I've tried a lot of different plugs including NGK and various platinums. Nothing works as well as the K16RU with the stock gap. Those Japanese engineers really got the ignition system right on this motor.
#14
Still on the V-Power kick myself. Since posting here I've experimented with the gaps. Opened them up to .036", and saw noticeable improvement in power/fuel efficiency. Also was able to advance the timing two or three degrees further vs. stock gap specs(.032"). Still meaning to upgrade my coil from the stock canistor-type on the 88's.
BTW, I HIGHLY recommend those 8mm Accel SS solid-core wires. If you don't listen to the radio. MAJOR static if you do, no EM/RF shielding.
Sorry, sb5walker, but I beg to differ. And Toyota would too. Or why would they have later upgraded the ignition coil? Let's just say they nearly got it right on the first try. And there are gains to be had by upgrading ALL the ignition components, even on a stock 3vze, IMO.
BTW, I HIGHLY recommend those 8mm Accel SS solid-core wires. If you don't listen to the radio. MAJOR static if you do, no EM/RF shielding.
Sorry, sb5walker, but I beg to differ. And Toyota would too. Or why would they have later upgraded the ignition coil? Let's just say they nearly got it right on the first try. And there are gains to be had by upgrading ALL the ignition components, even on a stock 3vze, IMO.
Last edited by MudHippy; 08-30-2010 at 04:38 PM.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: beaverton, oregon
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im currently running NGK with no complaints, but when i do the next tune up i think i will switch to the nippon denso iridiums, for both rigs.
a few issues back of 4wd toy owner they did a piece on the iridiums coming stock on fj80's and claiming them to be good for upwards of 100k???? correct me if im wrong or if someone else read that article...
a few issues back of 4wd toy owner they did a piece on the iridiums coming stock on fj80's and claiming them to be good for upwards of 100k???? correct me if im wrong or if someone else read that article...
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Minnesota, USA
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MudHippy,
Why do you highly recommend the 8mm Accel wires? Or in a heightened state of mind you recommend?
Personally went with a set of HiPro 8mm for cheap on ebay. Wires understandably take most abuse from me than anything else; with this size of hands its hard not to abuse things. Instead of feeling bad for my wires I upgraded to some lifetime warrantied badass'
Now whats up with the Accel's you rep? They have voltage leaks and noise? Might want to upgrade.
Why do you highly recommend the 8mm Accel wires? Or in a heightened state of mind you recommend?
Personally went with a set of HiPro 8mm for cheap on ebay. Wires understandably take most abuse from me than anything else; with this size of hands its hard not to abuse things. Instead of feeling bad for my wires I upgraded to some lifetime warrantied badass'
Now whats up with the Accel's you rep? They have voltage leaks and noise? Might want to upgrade.
#17
In The Beginning
Probably the most efficient transfer of spark energy is made with solid core spark plug wire. This type of wire was extensively used prior to the 60's before the introduction of car radios as standard equipment. A few modern day exceptions exist such as certain race applications and a few European car manufacturers. The problem with solid core wire is that it emits large amounts of RFI ( radio frequency interference) which affects radios, and onboard electronic systems in cars. When current passes through a wire, a magnetic field is formed. If the current flow is switched on and off rapidly as with an ignition system, RFI is caused by the magnetic field collapse (some refer to it as EMF which stands for electromotive force). When manufacturers started installing radios in cars, a solution was needed to reduce the RFI. One of the first solutions was to mount resistors on the wire ends to reduce the current flow and consequently reduce the EMF and resultant RFI. The second solution, and the most popular by far, was to make the whole wire a resistor. Thus the age of carbon core wire (sometimes referred to as graphite core) was born. This type of wire needed a whole new type of construction over conventional solid core wire. Carbon core wire's basic construction starts with a non conductive structural member (nylon or Kevlar™) over which carbon fibers are deposited. These carbon fibers are typically blended with latex or silicone to form a flexible coating. A layer of EPDM rubber is then deposited over the core as primary insulation. Next a nylon bonding weave is placed over the wire which is followed by a final coating of either EPDM or silicone rubber. When new, this wire performs as designed. Over time however, with heat and vibration the carbon fibers tend to loosen which degrades conduction and eventually requires replacement. For this reason some OEMs (original equipment manufacturers) recommend replacement every 3 years or 60,000 KM. Carbon core wire is quite economical for manufacturers to use while suppressing sufficient RFI. This wire typically has a resistance of 3,000 to 20,000 ohms /ft. depending on the manufacturer.
O.K. So Where Do We Go Now ?
Previously mentioned, RFI is reduced by limiting the current flow in the wire. This reduction of current flow also results in a weaker spark to the plugs. An internal combustion engine operates on the principal of air and fuel burning in a cylinder and the expanding gases driving down the piston. That's right the fuel burns, not explodes as some believe. The hotter the spark in the cylinder the better the air/fuel ignition and better chance at complete combustion. We will come back to this in more detail later on, along with some common misconceptions. Since the hotter the spark the better combustion, an engine's efficiency improves, simple fact. Carbon core wire is not our most efficient choice here, and solid core wire can't be used on modern vehicles. So where do we go from here ? The newest technology is wire wound construction which can go under many names such as magnetic suppression wire ( mag wire ), spiral core, helical core and so on. Although this type of wire is more costly than carbon core, vehicle manufacturers are using this type of wire more and more in newer vehicles for better efficiency and longer life.
Probably the most efficient transfer of spark energy is made with solid core spark plug wire. This type of wire was extensively used prior to the 60's before the introduction of car radios as standard equipment. A few modern day exceptions exist such as certain race applications and a few European car manufacturers. The problem with solid core wire is that it emits large amounts of RFI ( radio frequency interference) which affects radios, and onboard electronic systems in cars. When current passes through a wire, a magnetic field is formed. If the current flow is switched on and off rapidly as with an ignition system, RFI is caused by the magnetic field collapse (some refer to it as EMF which stands for electromotive force). When manufacturers started installing radios in cars, a solution was needed to reduce the RFI. One of the first solutions was to mount resistors on the wire ends to reduce the current flow and consequently reduce the EMF and resultant RFI. The second solution, and the most popular by far, was to make the whole wire a resistor. Thus the age of carbon core wire (sometimes referred to as graphite core) was born. This type of wire needed a whole new type of construction over conventional solid core wire. Carbon core wire's basic construction starts with a non conductive structural member (nylon or Kevlar™) over which carbon fibers are deposited. These carbon fibers are typically blended with latex or silicone to form a flexible coating. A layer of EPDM rubber is then deposited over the core as primary insulation. Next a nylon bonding weave is placed over the wire which is followed by a final coating of either EPDM or silicone rubber. When new, this wire performs as designed. Over time however, with heat and vibration the carbon fibers tend to loosen which degrades conduction and eventually requires replacement. For this reason some OEMs (original equipment manufacturers) recommend replacement every 3 years or 60,000 KM. Carbon core wire is quite economical for manufacturers to use while suppressing sufficient RFI. This wire typically has a resistance of 3,000 to 20,000 ohms /ft. depending on the manufacturer.
O.K. So Where Do We Go Now ?
Previously mentioned, RFI is reduced by limiting the current flow in the wire. This reduction of current flow also results in a weaker spark to the plugs. An internal combustion engine operates on the principal of air and fuel burning in a cylinder and the expanding gases driving down the piston. That's right the fuel burns, not explodes as some believe. The hotter the spark in the cylinder the better the air/fuel ignition and better chance at complete combustion. We will come back to this in more detail later on, along with some common misconceptions. Since the hotter the spark the better combustion, an engine's efficiency improves, simple fact. Carbon core wire is not our most efficient choice here, and solid core wire can't be used on modern vehicles. So where do we go from here ? The newest technology is wire wound construction which can go under many names such as magnetic suppression wire ( mag wire ), spiral core, helical core and so on. Although this type of wire is more costly than carbon core, vehicle manufacturers are using this type of wire more and more in newer vehicles for better efficiency and longer life.
I've experienced NO negative electromagnetic/radio frequency interference(EMI/RFI)on my 88 3vze while running Accel's 8mm solid core wires during ~3 years of operation. Just can't get nothin' on the radio but static with the engine running. It's therefor, an extremely good trade-off for the benefits they provide over suppression wires, IMO(as my truck has no radio installed at present anyway). Those being, namely, guaranteed highest spark energy from their near total lack of electrical resistance(NO other type/design of wires can equal their performance in that respect, though some try), and a virtually unlimited lifespan. They NEVER wear out or need replaced, unless you damage them mechanically in some fashion.
BTW, they don't make any drugs strong enough to slow my brain down. Too bad for me I guess.
Last edited by MudHippy; 08-31-2010 at 06:05 PM.
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Minnesota, USA
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HaHa that's badass. Got some greenish stuff that would take away your verbals. Anyway back to plugs and wires: Take it you're running carb? EFI engines driven on the street would most likely have some serious driveability issues with solid-core wires. The price of the accel is good though.
The hipro where $60. Paying $10 over the cost of stock had more pros in my opinion making them was worth every penny for a 3vze.
-For starters: Lifetime Warranty! (have legal paperwork for this) who offers this?
-Full set of wires pre-cut and assembled for perfect fit
-Fiberglass inner core
-Silicone EC rubber
-Helically wound metal resistor wires for superior noise suppression
-White silicone inner insulation provides protection from power robbing voltage leaks
-Fiberglass braid for support and flexibility
-Ultra smooth outer silicone jacket for lifetime protection from heat and engine fluids
-OE style silicone connectors provide a positive connection, fit and seal
Couldn't find a better deal
The hipro where $60. Paying $10 over the cost of stock had more pros in my opinion making them was worth every penny for a 3vze.
-For starters: Lifetime Warranty! (have legal paperwork for this) who offers this?
-Full set of wires pre-cut and assembled for perfect fit
-Fiberglass inner core
-Silicone EC rubber
-Helically wound metal resistor wires for superior noise suppression
-White silicone inner insulation provides protection from power robbing voltage leaks
-Fiberglass braid for support and flexibility
-Ultra smooth outer silicone jacket for lifetime protection from heat and engine fluids
-OE style silicone connectors provide a positive connection, fit and seal
Couldn't find a better deal
#20
Their price vs. stock wires was the main reason I decided to give them a try. I'd read all the hype on how they "won't" work well with EFI. Just goes to show, "Don't believe ANYTHING you hear, and only HALF of what you read!".
I do know of a guy that did fit a carb on his 3vze. Friend of a friend you might say. From what I've heard he likes it and feels it was a big improvement over the stock EFI. Must've cost him an arm and a leg to get his setup like that. And he must spend most of his time on the street with it. Because anyone that knows anything about carbs knows their limitations in off-road situations. Only so steep a hill you can climb, or tilted off-camber you can get, before they poop out on ya. Seen it a hundred times.
Edit: Here's the guy I spoke of...
I prefer wire core on my wires , my opinion but they deliver a much stronger spark that the traditional carbon core wires and will not degrade nearly as fast as the carbon core due to vibration etc , if you are a audiofile you may find that the wire core will create a bit of popping in your far off radio station but the Yota's incorporate nice supression at the coil which eliminates that common problem with the wire core realated to stereo completely , I would rather have a nice spark at the plugs than a crystal clean weak station reception anyway.
Last edited by MudHippy; 08-31-2010 at 02:36 PM.