UPDATE:
Had it apart a lot more. Go to find out original valve may have been fine. ZERO clearance between cam lobe and shim. Didn't want to take head off again and didn't feel like waiting more time for parts. Ground (dremeled) a few thousands off the back end of the valve. Got it really close to the tight end of the tolerance, but all is fine now! COmpression is good and seems to be running pretty sweet. I am not 100% on my vac lines, but the FSM makes for a crappy ass picture.

 

Was this missing all the time or off and on. Mine will run great for a moment and pull hard enough to make my ipod fall out of the storage hole under my cd player then the next instant it i will miss and have zero power and struggle to keep up with traffic.

 

Sounds like you obviously found your problem. Valve clearance bit my butt one time, and never will again.

 

Mine turned out to be my throttle position sensor. $95 later and my truck is running better than it has since I purchased it. I am still going to check my timing when I get a chance there might be a little more potential in there yet.

 

I have that same issue as far as the lub-lub at idle, sounds like I'm sitting with a small block Chevy under the hood.

Both heads were replaced 10K ago by Toyota along with the HG recall. I have to assume that since the heads came complete from the Yota factory that all the valves are in correctly.

It also sometimes has an idle in gear of 700 and at the next light it will be at 500 and shaking the whole truck, actually it shakes the whole truck whenever it idles in gear, but it's worse at 500RPM.

Is there a test for the TPS?

Also if anybody has a good vaccuum diagram it would be nice to see it. I have a line that isn't connected right beind the plenum at the firewall, looks like it comes up off of some kind of sensor and then goes nowhere.

Thanks.

 

You have the exact same symptoms I do. I have thrown new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter at it with no sucess. Trying to figure where to go from here.


-Nick

 

This is the test/adjustment method I used. I found mine to be bad with my multimeter and picked up a new one at the local checker autoparts (the same exact part my truck had on it).

I still have a bit of a idle bug but my truck isn't missing a bunch and driving with no power. Now a few times I have noticed my idle is up around 2000rpm and even kicking it down won't get the idle to drop and it's a bit hesitant from idle to accelleration. Still need to check the timing on this truck.

 

I have a VERY similiar issue.

I have the 22re

Repalced plugs, wires, ignition coil, TPS, Fuel Filter, an o ring.

Pulled everything from the block, except the actual head since it was a new head. Repalced all the gaskets, replaced the EGR, cleaned out tons of sludge, replaced the vac lines, tested all 4 fuel injectors, replaced the cold start injector, replaced 1 fuel injector connector, tried a fuel injector cleaner in the truck, checked timing...

Only option now is to replace the wiring harness and ECU im guessing

 

Still having this problem after valves were done new harness and ECM I think either knock sensor or a bad valve job.