phorensic

Well, everything is ordered for the custom turbo installation. In about three weeks or so we should be starting to install it on my truck. Decided to get a baseline to see where I'm at, so I can tune things a little better afterwards.



All I have does is intake, exhaust, and advanced timing. 33x10.50 tires. The guys at the dyno shop said that it should be more like 130rwhp if I had "car sized" tires on it.

Ricer excuses: One of my back tires is flat. The other has 15psi in it. They are freakin 33's. Gearing is slightly off. Big exhaust leak. Dirty air filter. Blah blah blah. So I'll go with 125rwhp for now. And damn, look at that torque...not bad.

Turbo time. I expect 170rwhp at first with no tuning. And about 200rwhp after megasquirt and tuning.

Churnd

I'll be watching for updates!

suprathepeg

Nice, lets see how it goes.

snap-on

i kinda feel depressed about my 3.slow now i had always hoped for better "stock" numbers ....

Bobakazi

I have thought about slapping on a turbo myself. On my truck that is. Although some mornings I wish I had one on me. I am anxious to see what your stats are after!

Bassinfool

I have to say I'm a little surprised at those numbers. More specifically the torque! That's fairly impressive compared to where I thought it would come in. Very interested in the new numbers!

Flamedx4

Don't be! That's at the rear wheels - and with 33s! (Gearing is not slightly off - its way the hell off!) At the crank is really probably close to "claimed" horsepower. The torque is really good, for a motor everyone despises....

Weasy2k

sweet a baseline to use! and thats what i expect to from it...my cams taht will be released for this engine will help solve those MASSIVE falloffs
SWEEETTTT thanks for this!

My advise for tuning this engine would be too get a EGT gauge in there!! These engines burn up the valves in cyl 5 & 6 so some sort of moniter back there to keep those temps down would be good....this is TIMING related so to much timing retard will cause that EGT to heat up and by by valves.

Something else the cams should help out on.

Good luck man!

runethechamp

The size of the wheels does not affect any of these numbers, it just affects the force transmitted to the road (and hence, acceleration).

phorensic

So you are telling me that if I put on 49's and kept the stock 4.10 gears that these numbers would not change at all?

I think you forgot that mass affects WHEEL horsepower. Lets throw some lead shot in my 33's and watch the power stay the same. lol. Yeah, the crank HP will stay the same, about 150hp in this case, but wheel horsepower is largely affected by many things.

phorensic

SOB. I have to retard the timing with the turbo on, obviously. AND there will be some pretty massive backpressure going on from the head to the turbine, further increasing heat. My worries so far are burnt #6 valve, and a BHG (nothing a custom MLS or copper hg won't solve). EGT gauge has been considered, but won't go in until I start getting everything fine tuned.

mt_goat

The peak HP comes right where I've noticed my sweet spot in the power band, 3500-4000rpms. Too bad the peak torque doesn't happen until almost 5000 rpms though.

suprathepeg

As much as I like you Johnny I have to disagree with you there. 5&6 get their excessive heat from the crossover running right by them. Also, better ignition will help to bring down those temps as well. Cams may offer an overall better heat management they won't fix the excessive heat in 5&6.

phorensic, I'd talk to Ted at engnbldr about the HGs I've talked with a few peeps about getting a MLS together as well but that won't be ready for at least 6 mo if not longer. He has the Rockgasket HG with a steel slipperplate in stock as well as the nitroseal and says that both solve the HG problem on these motors. He has a guy running a SC on a 3.0 with IIRC 12# boost and no problems with the new gaskets so that may be all you need. A lot of builders I talked to were against the idea of a copper gasket as they have had problems getting a consistant possative seal.

There are a few people with writups online that have done the turbo 3.0 and have had good results so I think your on the right track.

runethechamp

It's the other way around. And the torque is what you actually can feel in the car as acceleration (horsepower, or any power measurement, is force times speed or torque times rotaional speed, or rpms). The torque peak can't, by definition, appear at higher rpm than the power peak.

phorensic

Suprathepeg, looks like it will be MLS HG for the win, then. I plan on running 15psi eventually. For now I just hope and pray the stockie doesn't let go, and REALLY hope the water doesn't take out the main/rod bearings.

phorensic

On the cams issue. I think if someone could design some cams to move the peak torque from 3500 to about 4000 or 4500 we could get a NICE improvement in power. Food for thought.

runethechamp

Was just thinking about something here, since you were complaining about the Hp output. I think I read somewhere that if you advance your timing, you end up moving the torque curve down the rpm scale (maybe it was described by you even, you did some timing write-up I remember now). I don't know if that's right or not, but if it is, the normal timing would push the torque curve towards higher rpms, and hence increase the max HP output.

suprathepeg

What I've learned about timing is that there is a sweet spot and anything other then that will negatively effect the timing. It is possible that the factory set the timing at a lower level of advance then was optimal to gain some breathing room and advancing it more under the right conditions on the 3.0 may yield more power. Problem with the 3.0 is getting power in the lower RPM range that said if I was gonna do FI I would likely put a SC on, but the turbo is cool too.

Now Phorensic, don't tell me that you're thinking of just adding that trubo to the engine as is? I would think that at the very least you should rebuild it so its fresh. Then I'd o-ring it to ensure you don't have any HG leaks that end in total failure at boost.

Weasy2k

Suprathepeg,
Yes i know that is large cause as well BUT look at what causes that? Exhaust....now i go back to my timing comment...RETARD the timing and you WILL increase the exhasut gas temp..and where does that go? Back through the cross over and radiates to head (as per your theory). I guess i should have mentioned WHY i said retarding the timing will cause this. Also i dont understand your better ignition comment? Retarding the timing does not mean better ignition as that is power loss Timing advnace (to a certain degree) will increase power and lower temps BUTTTTTTT increase chances of detonation.
Now the way my cams will be designed WILL have this in mind I wont go deeper in that because its in the works right now

phorensic,
The cams are already in the design phase and the test 4runner here should be in the shop and dismantled to inspect the problem (siezed engine and blown headgasket)
If the engine is a disaster then I will not be putting the 3.0L engine back in but instead doing the 3.4L swap.
Also i have HEARD that a major head gasket issue on the 3vz-e (i will be looking into it more wehn i take apart the engine) is the spacing of the head bolts. The spacing is farther then normal and lifts under severe pressure, hence alot of warped heads and the fact that people dont turbo those engines with ALOT of pressure.
Im pritty sure you will be happy with 7 psi....heck ANYTHING would be better then stock! mIf you have any fueling questions let me know i can help out.

mt_goat

Oh thanks, that makes more sense. Its confusing the way they scaled that graph.