mlrtime99

So I've been bleeding power steering fluid for quite some time and picked up a reman'd last night and was about to rip that bad boy out when I noticed what I guess is some sort of vacuum sensor on the bottom of the PS pump with nothing plugged into it. So maybe my pump isn't bad as much as it's just been leaking fluid out of these ports. I hadn't seen this before because I hadn't taken the battery out. Long story short after digging around I found 2 loose rubber lines that lead to the manifold. Now obviously they both don't go to the same place or they wouldn't have run 2 but they are only about an inch or so apart. I need someone if possible to tell me if these 2 lines DO in fact run to your power steering pump and in what order. Click to see larger images.

Dual ports on bottom left of pump


Lost lines

abecedarian

it's an 'idle up' valve that's supposed to raise the engine speed slightly when you turn the steering wheel. if you're leaking fluid out of it, it is bad. also, it doesn't matter which goes where on that valve.

abecedarian

to add- one should lead to the manifold, after the throttle body, so it has vaccum. the other should lead to a port from (or tee'd into one) that comes from in front of the throttle body, so it gets clean air

mt_goat

Hope this helps some:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...11powerste.pdf

mlrtime99

Holy service manual batman!!! That thing kicks the snot out of this Chilton. You've really disappointed me as I wasn't looking forward to pulling the pump. I understand that in normal operation this "air control valve" shouldn't leak fluid into the lines but do you think in the absence of a vacuum that valve some how opens up allowing fluid through?

abecedarian

Definitely bookmark the link mt_goat posted!
take off everything after 93fsm and you should be golden to bookmark: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm
Considering there's pump pressure pushing on the one side of it, I don't think a few inches of vacuum sucking on the other side is gonna make it leak any less.
You can't get in there with a stubby wrench?

mt_goat

I doubt it. Its very common for the pump seals to start leaking. You can get a service pack from the dealer to replace all the seals & o-rings for about $25

Here's the whole 93 FSM:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

thook

Chilton's/Haynes = cliff's notes. Handy for some things, but not for the nitty-gritty.

mlrtime99

Reman pump was only 50 with a lifetime warranty. Well damnit guys I'll replace the pump, clean out what i can get to on that valve and put it on the new pump. We'll see how the leaks go. I imagine this one is original so 220k isn't that bad to reinvest $50.

abecedarian

I doubt you'll be able to get that valve to seal properly, if it is in fact leaking fluid out of the port(s). Hate to see you go through the trouble only to find the valve is still leaking.

jpmountainboy

be very careful not to drop that valve and break the little tips off...and wait until u have tightened the belt back on before connecting the hoses to it as the jerking of the pump can snap em off....and guess what, you cant (I couldnt) find through any parts store and the dealer wants...wait...$210 for it.

good luck...and if you are replacing you pump be SURE to replace the the o ring on the bottom of the canister...I replaced mine and turns out thats all it was

have fun

thook

Under no circumstances should fluid be able to pass through the valve. Even when the vacuum source has been removed. Pressure does build up under hard turns to allow that valve to open, but still....it shouldn't leak fluid.

You might try contacting DeathCougar (Nix99 used parts) on the forum for another valve. Or, just look up Nix99 on google. Contact Josh<<<DeathCougar. I've gotten a number of used parts and never went wrong. Fair prices. Very fair.

GorgeRunner

I can't recall seeing that valve on my PS pump, which leaks like a sieve. Maybe I'm missing something.

mlrtime99

Well you're right, using the old fashioned mouth test there was no way I could get any air to flow through that valve, both of the outputs are connected so I agree there is no difference which line goes to which. My valve had teflon around the threads, which I didn't think an OEM would do so someone may have had this problem before. Anyways the inside is brass and I can look inside of the pump and see that it mates with another brass nipple. The valve side looks like it's a bit oblong though which is probably causing the leak. Oh well a little more teflon (hopefully it doesn't cook off too fast) and we'll see how that holds up. Lines are on and I'm heading to the store for some spring clips, I wouldn't recommend threaded clamps, like others have said the outputs are plastic and look a little brittle, pretty easy to over tighten I'm sure. Now i'm not sure if this was my leakage or if it was the pump or if it was the seal at the bottom of the resevoir. I just noticed the lines were off and posed the question. So the only thing I really did today, new PS pump, new belt, and attached the loose 2 lines. Will keep you updated with leaks. I definitely recommend a set of gearwrenches for this.

And george... it's wayyyyy on the bottom passenger side, I've never seen it until pulling the battery and poking around with a flashlight

mlrtime99

fannnntastic, 2 posts

mlrtime99

Well guys this thing is driving better than ever. No really. I'm wondering if the loose vacuum lines were throwing the MAF sensor off or if the bearings were so shot in the pump that the parasitic loss was through the roof. The only reason I'm thinking MAF is that when it used to warm up it would almost stall at idle. Every red light rpm's would drop to 300ish and I'd have to give it gas to keep the revs up. Now that these lines have found their home this seems to have gone away (then again it is a brisk day for us 60F so maybe I just haven't hit that warm point yet). Either way do yourselves a favor and check these 2 lines. There's no bulge or anything else that would assist in keeping the lines on. I grabbed some spring clamps (checkers calls them quick disconnect clamps) for 90 cents but that PS fluid is slicker than snot. We'll see how long they stay on.

TNRabbit

You don't need that little piece. You can stop up the hole & plug off the vacuum lines. All it does is idle the engine up a tad when you turn the steering wheel alll the way one way or the other. I removed mine & haven't had a lick of trouble since then. It IS one expensive little be-otch.

mlrtime99

The valve is probably not the most important thing in the truck, the loose open lines are definitely something to track down though. Has definitely improved warm idle.

abecedarian

well, good thing I suppose. even a small vacuum leak from 1/8 hose can foobar some things.
If it's working well... {and I may not worry about it but make sure you're not getting PS fluid (you're using Dexron II [or maybe even III or IV right... not regular PS fulid?) sucked through the lines}... you should be okay.

But TNRabbit had it basically right- if you can cap off those vacuum lines where they connect to the engine without detriment, you should be fine.

mlrtime99

Whoa whoa whoa, I was not aware I couldn't use "regular" PS fluid, I have a honda and use all of it's special fluids but I got valvoline max life PS for the 4runner, says it works on imports including toyotas EXCEPT honda. Do you see any problem with this?
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=74