3.0 V6 issues
Oct 11, 2011 | 05:01 PM
#21
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
And no only 1 cat on the 3.0. The crossover pipe has an expansion chamber. As far as I know its a buffer so that the crossover doesn't act as (so much of) a restrictor. Meaning slightly more flow on one side than the other would be bad. We all know sharp bends in exhaust or an intake just doesn't help.
Oct 11, 2011 | 05:36 PM
#24
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ok heres a list of all the stuff ive done,,, run higher octane gas, fuel additive(lucas not seafoam) spark plugs, wires, timing adjustment, new fuel filter ( old one pretty clogged up), and ive bea and banged on every heatshield under this thing, and yet still it rattles, and when i hit 5th gear it rattles pretty constatntly, however it will not rattle just revving it up in nuetral!!! and the motor has to get warmed up for it to do it!!
heres something else fellers, sometimes when i drive it a good distance or get it nice and warmed up when u get out and cut it off it smells like burnt rotten eggs, that sound to me like a catalytic converter, but their is no rattle when i hit it and the rattle is coming from around the motor not under the driver seat!
heres something else fellers, sometimes when i drive it a good distance or get it nice and warmed up when u get out and cut it off it smells like burnt rotten eggs, that sound to me like a catalytic converter, but their is no rattle when i hit it and the rattle is coming from around the motor not under the driver seat!
Oct 11, 2011 | 06:15 PM
#25
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From: Knoxville, TN
First, short TE1 & E1 in the diagnostic port by the under-hood fuse panel & check your timing with a timing light; should be 10 BTDC with a warm engine at idle.
If that's right, there's a another reason it's pinging/rattling. I'd suspect carbon build-up next (causes compression to be too high). That can be checked with a mechanic's camera. A couple of Seafoam treatments & regular use of it in the fuel tank should clear that up if it's the issue.
After that, I'd check your compression (warm engine, all spark plugs out, coil wire removed, throttle wide open). You should have between 150-172 psi, but more importantly, the cylinders should be within a few PSI of each other rather than all over the place.
Let us know what you find.
If that's right, there's a another reason it's pinging/rattling. I'd suspect carbon build-up next (causes compression to be too high). That can be checked with a mechanic's camera. A couple of Seafoam treatments & regular use of it in the fuel tank should clear that up if it's the issue.
After that, I'd check your compression (warm engine, all spark plugs out, coil wire removed, throttle wide open). You should have between 150-172 psi, but more importantly, the cylinders should be within a few PSI of each other rather than all over the place.
Let us know what you find.
Sound advice, try these things.
Oct 12, 2011 | 04:04 PM
#26
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+1 on TNRabbit's advice.
A couple of folks have suggested various exhaust related parts to check, you can bang on the pipes, catalytic converter, muffler, shields, etc. with a gloved hand and if something is loose you should be able to hear it "rattle". That is what the guy at the exhaust shop will do while the vehicle is running.
"Pinging" or detonation on the other hand typically occurs under load (ie. 5th gear going up a hill on the interstate), and sounds like valve clatter noise.
You should read the CEL codes and see if it is throwing any errors for the knock sensor. That device is supposed to minimize detonation, and if it is faulty or if the wire pigtail that connects it to the ecu is faulty, you will have pinging. That typically throws a code, but worth checking.
Good luck.
A couple of folks have suggested various exhaust related parts to check, you can bang on the pipes, catalytic converter, muffler, shields, etc. with a gloved hand and if something is loose you should be able to hear it "rattle". That is what the guy at the exhaust shop will do while the vehicle is running.
"Pinging" or detonation on the other hand typically occurs under load (ie. 5th gear going up a hill on the interstate), and sounds like valve clatter noise.
You should read the CEL codes and see if it is throwing any errors for the knock sensor. That device is supposed to minimize detonation, and if it is faulty or if the wire pigtail that connects it to the ecu is faulty, you will have pinging. That typically throws a code, but worth checking.
Good luck.
Oct 12, 2011 | 06:46 PM
#28
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hahaha i know ur tellin me, i had a 22re back in the day with half a million babied miles on it, and it was still running when i sold it, everything major still factory on it too!! i miss it but u cant hardly find them in good shape that aint costing an arm and a leg!!
Oct 13, 2011 | 03:16 AM
#29
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Ok, i have gotten somewhere, im not very mechaniacaly inclined but my uncle is, we went under the hood today and loosened the bolt that is connected to the distributor (timing?) and we turned the distributor clockwise, and it seemed a little worse so we turned it counter clockwise a couple times and it seems to be barely noticable, so i figured id drive it like this for a day or 2 and see what happens and then ill go back in their and turn it a little more and make it disappear completely hopefully, any ideas on what was wrong? im tryin to learn all of this, What did we fix? lol
Oct 21, 2011 | 04:03 AM
#31
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
I mean what brought the knock on in the first place? Did you change grades of fuel? Anything else changed? When an engine just starts knocking, there's a reason behind it. Bad plug wire(s), faulty plug(s), bad fuel, or something in the sensor/ECU system causing it to not read everything correctly & advance the timing too far.
Nov 2, 2011 | 04:14 PM
#32
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I mean what brought the knock on in the first place? Did you change grades of fuel? Anything else changed? When an engine just starts knocking, there's a reason behind it. Bad plug wire(s), faulty plug(s), bad fuel, or something in the sensor/ECU system causing it to not read everything correctly & advance the timing too far.
Nov 4, 2011 | 01:31 AM
#35
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Ok i think i might have found the cause to my pre-detonation, my EGR valve is staying open? and from my recollection EGR valves release cool exhaust into the combustion chambers to keep temps low, is it possible that that is causing the temps to stay high and pre detonation?
Disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR for now & see if that solves it. You'll get a check engine light, but it will run fine until you can determine the issue.
Most likely a vacuum hose connected wrong, or the VSV on the passenger fender well is bad. See the three hoses under/behind the Cold Start Injector on the passenger side of the plenum? Those connect to the EGR, among others.
Last edited by TNRabbit; Nov 4, 2011 at 02:10 AM.
Nov 7, 2011 | 02:18 PM
#37
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From: mississippi
if its stuck open its going to affect your idle and its not going to cause pre detonation if its idleing no different and running no different its not stuck open. the exhaust keeps the air fuel mix from reaching peak detonation resulting in lower detonation temps. im having trouble with mine it wont open (no vacum) and it is lean and has high detonation temps and high egts. someone correct me if im wrong.
Last edited by turkey; Nov 7, 2011 at 02:20 PM.
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