3.0 rebuild checklist/questions
Jul 9, 2009 | 04:21 PM
#1
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3.0 rebuild checklist/questions
In the middle of rebuilding a 3.0 have the engine out and stripped down to the short block need to make decisions about the machine work and reassembly.
Rebuild due to popped head gasket, shot water pump, leaky rear main, figured just as easy to pull it to fix it all and now I have decided to freshen everything.
First time doing a full engine rebuild so I am using this as a learning experience as well. This is a 2wd driver in great shape, just want it to go another bunch of years doing its job, no need for added performance, just looking for reliability. yes I thought about a 3.4 swap, I decided against it because of cost and complication. I figure I should be able to do the rebuild for around a $1k, most of the peripherals are in good shape and will be reused.
My thoughts for the machine work, you thoughts appreciated
Heads:
cleaned
check for straightness/dye test
resurface
valve job
Block:
cleaned/degreased
not sure what needs to be done only 110K on engine. I figure I'm this far into it why not do the rings and be done.
I figure that if within spec I just can hone and ream cylinders and reassemble correct? Or should it always be bored to the next size?
will probably have the the block decked
I'll check the diameter and run out on the crank not expecting anything to be needed here. Or should I have it machined to create a new surface for the new main/rod bearings?
The "quick quote" at the machine shop was roughly 300-400 (depending on the block work) for everything minus the parts for the head and the crank work.
I was going to use the ENGBLDR master kit for the replacement parts.
With the ENGBLDR kit the rings say "moly required" does that mean I have to take them some where to get them coated? What's the deal?
Anything wrong with my plan, First time rebuilding, has gone slowly but smoothly up until now. Lots of questions I know, any advice appreciated
Ross
Rebuild due to popped head gasket, shot water pump, leaky rear main, figured just as easy to pull it to fix it all and now I have decided to freshen everything.
First time doing a full engine rebuild so I am using this as a learning experience as well. This is a 2wd driver in great shape, just want it to go another bunch of years doing its job, no need for added performance, just looking for reliability. yes I thought about a 3.4 swap, I decided against it because of cost and complication. I figure I should be able to do the rebuild for around a $1k, most of the peripherals are in good shape and will be reused.
My thoughts for the machine work, you thoughts appreciated
Heads:
cleaned
check for straightness/dye test
resurface
valve job
Block:
cleaned/degreased
not sure what needs to be done only 110K on engine. I figure I'm this far into it why not do the rings and be done.
I figure that if within spec I just can hone and ream cylinders and reassemble correct? Or should it always be bored to the next size?
will probably have the the block decked
I'll check the diameter and run out on the crank not expecting anything to be needed here. Or should I have it machined to create a new surface for the new main/rod bearings?
The "quick quote" at the machine shop was roughly 300-400 (depending on the block work) for everything minus the parts for the head and the crank work.
I was going to use the ENGBLDR master kit for the replacement parts.
With the ENGBLDR kit the rings say "moly required" does that mean I have to take them some where to get them coated? What's the deal?
Anything wrong with my plan, First time rebuilding, has gone slowly but smoothly up until now. Lots of questions I know, any advice appreciated
Ross
Last edited by freshspecbluegt; Jul 9, 2009 at 04:23 PM.
Jul 10, 2009 | 11:24 PM
#2
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 1
From: Salem, OR
Do you know the compression of the cylinders? If its got good compression and the cylinder walls are fine don't bother messing with it.
Yes, you can just hone the cylinders and put new rings in and you'd be fine.
A lot of those questions is what the machine shop will decide. If the surfaces are perfect there is no need to do any work.
Yes, you can just hone the cylinders and put new rings in and you'd be fine.
A lot of those questions is what the machine shop will decide. If the surfaces are perfect there is no need to do any work.
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