3.0 random stutter, wont accelerate.
#41
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ETA... all that said... I prolly still wouldnt replace the tank... I'd just take the time to clean it out good, and maybe replace the pump/sock... Bit I'm also a cheap bastid
Last edited by Team420; 01-15-2014 at 02:13 PM.
#43
Registered User
Was gonna comment on your fuel tank... if this were a fuel issue it would hesitate and possibly even shut off when you applied heavy throttle. It doesn't seem like this is your issue. These fuel pumps last a very, very long time. 285k on the original one for me.
It's worth checking the fuel filter though, mine was pretty bad on my rig.
I've checked every suggestion listed in this thread so far (timing, fuel filter, tank, cat, etc.) and I still have the same issue you have. They are all worth checking at least, since there might be other side effects, but I highly doubt any will fix the issue completely. Like I said, I know it's electrical since it'll reset a CEL light. Bad timing or poor fuel pressure won't do that.
It's worth checking the fuel filter though, mine was pretty bad on my rig.
I've checked every suggestion listed in this thread so far (timing, fuel filter, tank, cat, etc.) and I still have the same issue you have. They are all worth checking at least, since there might be other side effects, but I highly doubt any will fix the issue completely. Like I said, I know it's electrical since it'll reset a CEL light. Bad timing or poor fuel pressure won't do that.
#44
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Thread Starter
Well I got the stupid thing home. It did not want to behave one bit. The problem has gotten severly worse in the last few day. It choked 3 times on the way home. Each time I had to pull off the road and wait it out a few mins. My motor never died it just wouldnt rev up. Sometimes worse than others. Anyhow about to go out and pull the tank. Wish me luck.
#45
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Thread Starter
Was gonna comment on your fuel tank... if this were a fuel issue it would hesitate and possibly even shut off when you applied heavy throttle. It doesn't seem like this is your issue. These fuel pumps last a very, very long time. 285k on the original one for me.
It's worth checking the fuel filter though, mine was pretty bad on my rig.
I've checked every suggestion listed in this thread so far (timing, fuel filter, tank, cat, etc.) and I still have the same issue you have. They are all worth checking at least, since there might be other side effects, but I highly doubt any will fix the issue completely. Like I said, I know it's electrical since it'll reset a CEL light. Bad timing or poor fuel pressure won't do that.
It's worth checking the fuel filter though, mine was pretty bad on my rig.
I've checked every suggestion listed in this thread so far (timing, fuel filter, tank, cat, etc.) and I still have the same issue you have. They are all worth checking at least, since there might be other side effects, but I highly doubt any will fix the issue completely. Like I said, I know it's electrical since it'll reset a CEL light. Bad timing or poor fuel pressure won't do that.
#46
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Well I got the stupid thing home. It did not want to behave one bit. The problem has gotten severly worse in the last few day. It choked 3 times on the way home. Each time I had to pull off the road and wait it out a few mins. My motor never died it just wouldnt rev up. Sometimes worse than others. Anyhow about to go out and pull the tank. Wish me luck.
Start there,,,, if its not "floaties", at least you can rule it out, and it costs nothing but time....
Either that... or you gots a blown hg.... lots of crazy stuff can happen with a blown hg..... might wanna start with a compression test.....
Thats where I usually start when it comes to diagnostics....
Last edited by Team420; 01-15-2014 at 06:40 PM.
#47
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Thread Starter
Yeah... "sounds" like jumk plugging the fuel pump.... i you can pull over, and it "settles" down,..... its likely a variable, like junk in your tank.....
Start there,,,, if its not "floaties", at least you can rule it out, and it costs nothing but time....
Either that... or you gots a blown hg.... lots of crazy stuff can happen with a blown hg..... might wanna start with a compression test.....
Thats where I usually start when it comes to diagnostics....
Start there,,,, if its not "floaties", at least you can rule it out, and it costs nothing but time....
Either that... or you gots a blown hg.... lots of crazy stuff can happen with a blown hg..... might wanna start with a compression test.....
Thats where I usually start when it comes to diagnostics....
#48
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Thread Starter
Well I didnt get much of a start on it. I had to go pick up my buddies car til I can figure this mess out. Weird driving a car again. Kinda cool thou driving my favorite car from gran turismo (3000gt). So from what I can see its just the 6 bolts that hold the tank up, the fill hose and overflow, the wire clip, one hard line, and two small hoses right? Do I need to disconnect the hardline before lowering the tank? Looks like a pain to get to, even with the 3 inch body lift.
#50
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Thread Starter
The muffler and pipe from the o2 sensor back was replaced about 2 years ago. For how loud it is I highly doubt theres any restrictions in the exhaust system. I still havent ruled out the egr valve yet thou....
#51
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just waiting for days off then i will be tearing into the wife's 4runner and hopefully be able to figure some stuff out to help you as well. My method will be, compression test right off the bat then if that clears I'm dropping fuel tank then working forward form there. see how it goes.
Edit: Her truck isn't throwing any codes so I might be lucky and not have an electrical issue... who knows. Usually bad things come in threes tho and her truck will be third strike. Engine grenaded on my work truck, The tracker i used as a daily commuter shorted out the ecm and fried the wiring front to back and now the wifes truck.... hope its not as bad as the last 2 haha
Edit: Her truck isn't throwing any codes so I might be lucky and not have an electrical issue... who knows. Usually bad things come in threes tho and her truck will be third strike. Engine grenaded on my work truck, The tracker i used as a daily commuter shorted out the ecm and fried the wiring front to back and now the wifes truck.... hope its not as bad as the last 2 haha
Last edited by bbrideau; 01-16-2014 at 11:47 AM.
#52
Registered User
Well this is exactly what is happening thou.. im driving along, then it hesitates, sputters, then wont rev up til I tap the gas over and over til what ever the issue is clears out or corrects. Also I never mentioned this but my truck doesnt have a cat. Its just staight piped to the muffler. Alao I replaced the fuel filter on monday night so I know thats not the issue unless its already plugged again...
My bad, I think I might have missed a few posts in there. You're right then, if you actually are having those symptoms! I think though that the "stutter" might still be lingering after the fuel delivery/loss of power issue is resolved but if not, let us know what you did.
#53
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Thread Starter
Ok guys, well I just finished pulling the tank and pump. The inside was very clean. The only place I saw any rust was in the the area the filter sits. I took a long wooden cuetip and brushed the spots to see if any od the rust was loose. Nothing came off. Other than this there was a half dozen small little things in the tank (most of which probably fell In when I was pulling the tank). Now as for the pump sock, it was all clean but one little area the size of a nickle which was full of dirt, metal, and what looked like hair. So is there a way to see if the pump has something in it or to clean it? I took a couple pics ill upload when Im finished working for the night.
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
just waiting for days off then i will be tearing into the wife's 4runner and hopefully be able to figure some stuff out to help you as well. My method will be, compression test right off the bat then if that clears I'm dropping fuel tank then working forward form there. see how it goes.
Edit: Her truck isn't throwing any codes so I might be lucky and not have an electrical issue... who knows. Usually bad things come in threes tho and her truck will be third strike. Engine grenaded on my work truck, The tracker i used as a daily commuter shorted out the ecm and fried the wiring front to back and now the wifes truck.... hope its not as bad as the last 2 haha
Edit: Her truck isn't throwing any codes so I might be lucky and not have an electrical issue... who knows. Usually bad things come in threes tho and her truck will be third strike. Engine grenaded on my work truck, The tracker i used as a daily commuter shorted out the ecm and fried the wiring front to back and now the wifes truck.... hope its not as bad as the last 2 haha
Last edited by FuelforWar; 01-16-2014 at 06:59 PM.
#55
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Food for thought:
Bad fuel injector connection(s) or Knock Sensor?
FPR Maybe?
Fuel Damper (on the back of the fuel rail)
Wiring to the fuel pump?
Could the igniter inside the distributer have anything to do with it?
MAF?
Good luck
Bad fuel injector connection(s) or Knock Sensor?
FPR Maybe?
Fuel Damper (on the back of the fuel rail)
Wiring to the fuel pump?
Could the igniter inside the distributer have anything to do with it?
MAF?
Good luck
#56
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Thread Starter
My computers wont let me upload the pics but I made a discovery. I pulled the pump from the sending unit and the connecter for the pump was caked in crud. Im curious if the circuit keep shorting out or was passing a weak signal. Thoughts?
#57
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Thread Starter
So can I test the pump with the ohm meter? I dont see any damage to the blades so ill leave the pump if its fine. If I can does anyone know the numbers I should be getting?
#58
Registered User
I'm 50-50 on dielectric grease (which might be the crusty stuff you saw). The stuff I've been using has a tendency to dry up and harden, leaving a crust. Some say it's good and helps the connection but for a fuel pump, which you probably never want to drop the tank to get to it ever again, you might want to omit it. FSM doesn't ever mention it, so up to you.
Last edited by Gamefreakgc; 01-17-2014 at 08:23 AM.
#59
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Thread Starter
Any caked connector or one covered in rust it a potential issue. It may not necessarily cut out, but will increase the resistant (ohms) of the current. Since the ECU will read voltages based off resistance (returning voltage), this could give a false reading or under-power the pump. You want to see glossy metal (I think these are brass or copper connectors, so they won't get "sparkly"), anything less needs to be cleaned or in a worse case scenario, replaced.
I'm 50-50 on dielectric grease (which might be the crusty stuff you saw). The stuff I've been using has a tendency to dry up and harden, leaving a crust. Some say it's good and helps the connection but for a fuel pump, which you probably never want to drop the tank to get to it ever again, you might want to omit it. FSM doesn't ever mention it, so up to you.
I'm 50-50 on dielectric grease (which might be the crusty stuff you saw). The stuff I've been using has a tendency to dry up and harden, leaving a crust. Some say it's good and helps the connection but for a fuel pump, which you probably never want to drop the tank to get to it ever again, you might want to omit it. FSM doesn't ever mention it, so up to you.
#60
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well sad news everyone. In the process of reinstalling my tank i damaged the hardline that goes into ghe tank. Looks like ill have to replace the fuel sending assembly before I can test my hypothesis. Once again more bad luck.......