3.0 MOD Differences - what did you do and what did you notice?
09-09-2006, 10:53 PM
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3.0 MOD Differences - what did you do and what did you notice?
Yes there have been a ton of threads about 3.0 3vze mods over the years. I've seen 'em all. But what I would like to do is start a thread about the different mods you have done, and what you noticed.
What exact mod did you do (describe it a bit if it needs it)? How much did it cost roughly? How simple or difficult would you say it was (or if you didn't do it yourself, did you have it done professionally). What did it do for you performance wise? Would you recommend the mod? Were there any consequences from the mod? If you could change anything about the mod or do something different, what would you have done? Also, if you did the mod in conjunction with another mod, put them together (e.g. Headers & exhaust which seem to be done together if they are done). For example:
1. Cat-back exhaust - Had a local exhaust shop do a pressure bent 2 1/4" aluminized steel pipe exhaust with an 18" (part# xxxxxxx) 2 1/4" magnaflow stainless steel muffler. Performance wise I definately noticed it - it seems to pull hard now from 2000 RPM's where as before I didn't notice it start to pull until 2800 RPM's in most gears. I can also rev it past 3500 RPM's and it seems to pull and pull harder. Gas mileage is slighty better. I love the sound. It also revs more freely. I paid $xxxx for the muffler, and $xxx for the labour/exhaust shops work. I definately recommend it. The only thing I regret is not having it mandrel bent which might have given a bit better flow even (again as an example), etc, etc.
Maybe the result of this thread could end up being a "sticky" thread at the top for those who are looking for mods to consider doing and pick the ones that guys recommend most and have had the best expieriences with.
What exact mod did you do (describe it a bit if it needs it)? How much did it cost roughly? How simple or difficult would you say it was (or if you didn't do it yourself, did you have it done professionally). What did it do for you performance wise? Would you recommend the mod? Were there any consequences from the mod? If you could change anything about the mod or do something different, what would you have done? Also, if you did the mod in conjunction with another mod, put them together (e.g. Headers & exhaust which seem to be done together if they are done). For example:
1. Cat-back exhaust - Had a local exhaust shop do a pressure bent 2 1/4" aluminized steel pipe exhaust with an 18" (part# xxxxxxx) 2 1/4" magnaflow stainless steel muffler. Performance wise I definately noticed it - it seems to pull hard now from 2000 RPM's where as before I didn't notice it start to pull until 2800 RPM's in most gears. I can also rev it past 3500 RPM's and it seems to pull and pull harder. Gas mileage is slighty better. I love the sound. It also revs more freely. I paid $xxxx for the muffler, and $xxx for the labour/exhaust shops work. I definately recommend it. The only thing I regret is not having it mandrel bent which might have given a bit better flow even (again as an example), etc, etc.
Maybe the result of this thread could end up being a "sticky" thread at the top for those who are looking for mods to consider doing and pick the ones that guys recommend most and have had the best expieriences with.
Last edited by CoedNaked; 09-09-2006 at 10:55 PM.
09-10-2006, 12:32 PM
#2
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your thread title is funny...
Motor swap? Haha, J/K. I have no idea since I have a 4 banger. Good idea, maybe we can get another one for R series motors. 
09-13-2006, 01:32 PM
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Modified NWOR headers, Downey intake/air cleaner, minor improvement with both at low rpm-- really wakes it up at higher rpm. Actual gains I'm sure are pretty small.
Honestly, the best mod for driveability, especially off road, was the heavier Centerforce flywheel. Made it a real crawler and hard to kill in slow speed, low rpm driving. (Have to have a manual transmission of course.)
Honestly, the best mod for driveability, especially off road, was the heavier Centerforce flywheel. Made it a real crawler and hard to kill in slow speed, low rpm driving. (Have to have a manual transmission of course.)
09-13-2006, 02:48 PM
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As these are the easiest mods I'm sure others will chime in too
- intake silencer removal, removed front air tube, cut out front of airbox and replaced stock filter with a K&N drop in. Improvement in throttle response and maybe a bit more power? Biggest difference is alot more intake noise at WOT.
-Replaced stock cat with high-flow unit and added a dynomax superturbo muffler. Same improvements as with the ISR - a bit better throttle response and a more noticable power gain.
- intake silencer removal, removed front air tube, cut out front of airbox and replaced stock filter with a K&N drop in. Improvement in throttle response and maybe a bit more power? Biggest difference is alot more intake noise at WOT.
-Replaced stock cat with high-flow unit and added a dynomax superturbo muffler. Same improvements as with the ISR - a bit better throttle response and a more noticable power gain.
09-13-2006, 02:53 PM
#6
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1) Dynomax muffler, hi flow cat, and 2 1/4 exhaust.
Cost = ~$500 IIRC
Results = Probably one of the best and most effective engine mods I've done. Likely the only one I'd recommend. Greater low-end pull off the starting line and in the lower RPM band.
2) K&N FIPK
Cost = ~$200 ?
Results = Worthless as tits on a fish. One of the worst mods I've done.
3) Heads ported & polished
Cost = ~$500
Results = I had this done when my second engine blew up. Had the heads ported & polished by a local machine shop while the mechanic found me a new long block. I also added headers at the same time, so you'd think it would be difficult to tell what gains I could attribute to the P&P and which were the result of the headers. Fact is, I noticed so little improvement from the combination that it just doesn't matter. Both mods were worthless and money wasted.
4) Even though I mentioned it above, the Downey Headers I installed get a special mention.
Cost = ~$350 on paper, but a hell of a lot more than that in residual repairs.
Result = Headers -- the mod that keeps coming back. The mod that keeps emptying my bank account. The mod that is never done robbing my wallet. The mod from hell. Even though mine are ceramic coated, I have had all sorts of issues with over heating component in the engine bay. I've burned through 5 speedo cables at this point and there's seemingly no way to route it far enough from the exhaust pipes to keep it from happening. I've cooked two starters. I've burned the floor board on the passenger side so badly that it melted through my speaker cables and RCA outputs. I have had over heating issues that aren't directly related to the addition of the headers, but the temp in the engine compartment is so hot in the summer that it surely doesn't help. I would never install headers again.
For all the money I've put in to the engine to get a few extra ponies, I'd say none of them have really been worth it except for the exhaust mod. The 3.0 is what is it -- underpowered and inefficient. IMO, modding it is futile and a waste of time and money.
Ed
Cost = ~$500 IIRC
Results = Probably one of the best and most effective engine mods I've done. Likely the only one I'd recommend. Greater low-end pull off the starting line and in the lower RPM band.
2) K&N FIPK
Cost = ~$200 ?
Results = Worthless as tits on a fish. One of the worst mods I've done.
3) Heads ported & polished
Cost = ~$500
Results = I had this done when my second engine blew up. Had the heads ported & polished by a local machine shop while the mechanic found me a new long block. I also added headers at the same time, so you'd think it would be difficult to tell what gains I could attribute to the P&P and which were the result of the headers. Fact is, I noticed so little improvement from the combination that it just doesn't matter. Both mods were worthless and money wasted.
4) Even though I mentioned it above, the Downey Headers I installed get a special mention.
Cost = ~$350 on paper, but a hell of a lot more than that in residual repairs.
Result = Headers -- the mod that keeps coming back. The mod that keeps emptying my bank account. The mod that is never done robbing my wallet. The mod from hell. Even though mine are ceramic coated, I have had all sorts of issues with over heating component in the engine bay. I've burned through 5 speedo cables at this point and there's seemingly no way to route it far enough from the exhaust pipes to keep it from happening. I've cooked two starters. I've burned the floor board on the passenger side so badly that it melted through my speaker cables and RCA outputs. I have had over heating issues that aren't directly related to the addition of the headers, but the temp in the engine compartment is so hot in the summer that it surely doesn't help. I would never install headers again.
For all the money I've put in to the engine to get a few extra ponies, I'd say none of them have really been worth it except for the exhaust mod. The 3.0 is what is it -- underpowered and inefficient. IMO, modding it is futile and a waste of time and money.
Ed
09-13-2006, 03:39 PM
#7
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If you are doing all that work yourself, we are talking what 2k in parts for maybe 25 HP, maybe.
Buy a used engine for 2k, buy a swap kit for 1k and get basically 50 HP.
I have a swapped truck, the 3.4 is the best performance mod I did to me 3.0 truck.
Buy a used engine for 2k, buy a swap kit for 1k and get basically 50 HP.
I have a swapped truck, the 3.4 is the best performance mod I did to me 3.0 truck.
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09-13-2006, 04:30 PM
#8
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hmm interesting, quite a few dissatisfied blokes up above! lol
1. KN filter element (50) Didnt do jack ˟˟˟˟˟.
2. FIPK (225 after shipping) Very very happy with what it did for my truck. Prior to the FIPK when the air temp was above 85*F my truck would have no torque and no power at all!! After the FIPK the outside air temps made little to no difference! She ran well all the time cold or hot!! (people noticing no change probably dont see the same conditions I do 80%+ humidity and 85*F++ for 9 months out of the year and at sea level too boot. Results may vary with the FIPK. For me it was well worth the 200 spent.
3. Carsound HiFlow Catalytic Converter (90) VERY VERY happy with this mod. With this plus the FIPK my top end went from 92mph to about 100mph.
4. 2.25" catback with dynomax "turbo" muffler (150) eeeeh I dunno about this one. I lost mpg, I lost bottom end tq and my top end speed dropped back down to 95mph. awsome sounding exhuast, to hear it go to my myspace (www.myspace/steve390gold) and click videos.
5. Ported plenum (60) I had this done when I was reshimming my valves. Honestly I expected NO difference, but I got one. Why? Well the EGR had been dumping crap into the main intake on the plenum and the plenum's intake was probably 10% occluded. Made the truck not have a flat spot and was nice and smooth on accelleration.
Current mods coming all at once:
1. www.sea2skytuning.com 254* duration 3vze camshafts
2. cylinder head PNP
3. oversized intake and exhaust valves
4. Cylinder head rebuild (not really a performance thing...lol)
4. EPN Grade 10.9 headbolts (again not perfromance just insurance)
I hope Ted at engine builder doesnt mind me posting this, but approx 600 for the head work---will post back in a month if im happy or not. Maybe these new mods will increase exhaust flow and 2.25" will finally 'fit' the engine's power.
Eventual mods...NWOR headers OR a turbo...
1. KN filter element (50) Didnt do jack ˟˟˟˟˟.
2. FIPK (225 after shipping) Very very happy with what it did for my truck. Prior to the FIPK when the air temp was above 85*F my truck would have no torque and no power at all!! After the FIPK the outside air temps made little to no difference! She ran well all the time cold or hot!! (people noticing no change probably dont see the same conditions I do 80%+ humidity and 85*F++ for 9 months out of the year and at sea level too boot. Results may vary with the FIPK. For me it was well worth the 200 spent.
3. Carsound HiFlow Catalytic Converter (90) VERY VERY happy with this mod. With this plus the FIPK my top end went from 92mph to about 100mph.
4. 2.25" catback with dynomax "turbo" muffler (150) eeeeh I dunno about this one. I lost mpg, I lost bottom end tq and my top end speed dropped back down to 95mph. awsome sounding exhuast, to hear it go to my myspace (www.myspace/steve390gold) and click videos.
5. Ported plenum (60) I had this done when I was reshimming my valves. Honestly I expected NO difference, but I got one. Why? Well the EGR had been dumping crap into the main intake on the plenum and the plenum's intake was probably 10% occluded. Made the truck not have a flat spot and was nice and smooth on accelleration.
Current mods coming all at once:
1. www.sea2skytuning.com 254* duration 3vze camshafts
2. cylinder head PNP
3. oversized intake and exhaust valves
4. Cylinder head rebuild (not really a performance thing...lol)
4. EPN Grade 10.9 headbolts (again not perfromance just insurance)
I hope Ted at engine builder doesnt mind me posting this, but approx 600 for the head work---will post back in a month if im happy or not. Maybe these new mods will increase exhaust flow and 2.25" will finally 'fit' the engine's power.
Eventual mods...NWOR headers OR a turbo...
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 09-13-2006 at 04:33 PM.
09-13-2006, 05:28 PM
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Black magic fan $200 = No discernable difference
Magnecor wires $150 = No discernable difference
Manifold back exhaust w/ 2.5" cat, pipe and magnaflow muffler $150 = No discernable difference - comfort in knowing #6 isn't getting so much hot air in the face
airbox drilled HEAVILY $0 = No discernable difference
Downey intake $220 (since abandoned-K&N sucks IMO) = No discernable difference
Magnecor wires $150 = No discernable difference
Manifold back exhaust w/ 2.5" cat, pipe and magnaflow muffler $150 = No discernable difference - comfort in knowing #6 isn't getting so much hot air in the face
airbox drilled HEAVILY $0 = No discernable difference
Downey intake $220 (since abandoned-K&N sucks IMO) = No discernable difference
Last edited by AlaskaToy; 09-13-2006 at 05:29 PM.
09-13-2006, 06:27 PM
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the electric fan should have made a BIG difference....try flooring it and holding the gas pedal there till red line...
(no im not kidding)
the 3vze wont make a lot of power till a bit above 3000rpm to about 4800rpm and with it WOT the whole time.
ps - now that i think about it, you are the first person ive ever heard of not gaining power from dumping the fan/clutch assembly.
(no im not kidding)
the 3vze wont make a lot of power till a bit above 3000rpm to about 4800rpm and with it WOT the whole time.
ps - now that i think about it, you are the first person ive ever heard of not gaining power from dumping the fan/clutch assembly.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 09-13-2006 at 06:28 PM.
09-13-2006, 06:41 PM
#11
ps - now that i think about it, you are the first person ive ever heard of not gaining power from dumping the fan/clutch assembly.[/QUOTE]
from my experince if you have a good fan and clutch it shouldnt make any noticable difference switching to an electric fan. it will make the motor more efficient but probably nothing noticable.
from my experince if you have a good fan and clutch it shouldnt make any noticable difference switching to an electric fan. it will make the motor more efficient but probably nothing noticable.
09-13-2006, 06:56 PM
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I never said any of the silly things I have done haven't made any difference. I just said I could not discern any difference. Heck all those things combined may have gained 2-10 HP, but 1.) they weren't done at the same time and 2.) my ass-dyno isn't calibrated.
Edit: now that I think about it, EVERY single thing I listed expte the Magnecor Wires did do something; they made the truck louder.
The 3vze is a reliable, inefficient, gutless motor with no cure but extensive head, cams, and intake work. I intend to run it till it dies; no more $ in it but oil & filters.
Edit: now that I think about it, EVERY single thing I listed expte the Magnecor Wires did do something; they made the truck louder.
The 3vze is a reliable, inefficient, gutless motor with no cure but extensive head, cams, and intake work. I intend to run it till it dies; no more $ in it but oil & filters.
Last edited by AlaskaToy; 09-13-2006 at 07:01 PM.
09-14-2006, 02:36 PM
#15
all ive done so far is ceramic coated headers from thorley and exhaust[dynomax high flow cat. and dynomax ultraflow muffler in 2.5 in. piping] costing about 800 total and a home made cold air intake. my truck runs great w/ no problems so far. next on the list is manual lockouts to free up some more gas milage. and maybe installing my msd ignition thats just sitting in my garage.
09-14-2006, 03:39 PM
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Well I got rid of my 300lb lady freind:cry: .... That helped with acceleration. And gas milage. And the smell..... lol J/k Did the K+N Drop-in Not too noticable but it does pull a little harder from the get go. Biggest thing that helped my truck was doing the exhaust. From 1.75 inch diam. to 2.25 with a hi-flow Walker cat and a 40 series flowmaster. Very big difference from start and aslo at high end. Also drilled out the airbox. No difference except I can hear that wooshing sound at wot.
Cheers, Lee Hathaway
p.s. get some TRD stickers that'll give at least 20 rwh!!! Honestly!!
Cheers, Lee Hathaway
p.s. get some TRD stickers that'll give at least 20 rwh!!! Honestly!!
09-14-2006, 03:46 PM
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-ISR mod listed on the performance forum ($50) Improved throttle response. Livened things up between 2000-3000 RPM.
-K&N Filter put in with ISR mod.
-Magnaflow Muffler part #12225. Purchased at justmagnaflow.com ($65) Pressure bent tailpipe 2.25" and installation ($100). This certainly made it sound better. It now has a nice deep tone around 2000 RPM, and overall sounds more aggressive. Performance gains were slight but noticeable. Most noticeable when I run the engine to the red line. It seems to pull better in the high RPM's.
After all mods I gained approximately 2 miles to the gallon.
-K&N Filter put in with ISR mod.
-Magnaflow Muffler part #12225. Purchased at justmagnaflow.com ($65) Pressure bent tailpipe 2.25" and installation ($100). This certainly made it sound better. It now has a nice deep tone around 2000 RPM, and overall sounds more aggressive. Performance gains were slight but noticeable. Most noticeable when I run the engine to the red line. It seems to pull better in the high RPM's.
After all mods I gained approximately 2 miles to the gallon.
Last edited by Gonzaga4Runner; 09-14-2006 at 03:48 PM.
09-17-2006, 07:28 AM
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i installed the super cheapo ebay AFM adapter, cone filter and took out my airbox. i can really hear it sucking in air and it pulls quite a bit better at around 4k rpms...
09-18-2006, 07:08 AM
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I've spent a lot of money on 3.0's... whatta ya wanna know?
My 94:
DOA heads. Totaled $2200 because Toyota refused to pay for the HG's the second time. 30 HP? Hell no. But that engine LOVED to run over 3500RPMs.
Jacobs ignition. Came with the vehicle but was very finicky. It would cut out every once in a while, so I eventually just pulled it. Got better mileage with the Jacobs and slightly better torque.
Downey/K&N filter. $250 when I bought it. Completely worthless except for the nice ricer sound.
Exhaust system (can't remember brand) and cat: $260. At least it was loud.
Overall, probably $3K worth of mods for 25HP, all of which come above 3500rpms.
My 88 has some more mods, none of which I have done:
Downey headers into a custom Magnaflow exhaust
K&N drop in filter
Bored throttle body.
It pulls better than the 3.4 in my 96 4Runner (TRD headers/exhaust, fuel pump, air filter, etc), but I attribute that more to the weight and auto tranny than anything else.
My 94:
DOA heads. Totaled $2200 because Toyota refused to pay for the HG's the second time. 30 HP? Hell no. But that engine LOVED to run over 3500RPMs.
Jacobs ignition. Came with the vehicle but was very finicky. It would cut out every once in a while, so I eventually just pulled it. Got better mileage with the Jacobs and slightly better torque.
Downey/K&N filter. $250 when I bought it. Completely worthless except for the nice ricer sound.
Exhaust system (can't remember brand) and cat: $260. At least it was loud.
Overall, probably $3K worth of mods for 25HP, all of which come above 3500rpms.
My 88 has some more mods, none of which I have done:
Downey headers into a custom Magnaflow exhaust
K&N drop in filter
Bored throttle body.
It pulls better than the 3.4 in my 96 4Runner (TRD headers/exhaust, fuel pump, air filter, etc), but I attribute that more to the weight and auto tranny than anything else.
