I'm looking at doing an electric fan instal tommorrow, What I'm wondering is how much CFM the stock fans push? I've thought about the taurus fan but I've heard that they can kill the controllers.

 

I don't know the numbers, but the stock fan pushes A LOT more than any electric fan that'll fit in there ever will.

Consider this...you have a 150hp engine vs. an electric motor that can barely make any of that. Which one will make more wind?

There are many threads out there that'll help you with this, and there is one in particular where I got the above info from that's very good.

The only reason you'd want electric is to gain a minimal amount of power (which might be a lot on a 3VZE ) by not having to turn a fan from the crank.

 

yes, it is being pushed by a 150 horse engine but it is on a clutch, i bet with a little searching we can come up with one just as efficient, tho it may be costly.

 

A clutch, and possibly a spring to engage that clutch. And even if there isn't a spring, the heated silicone will still be efficient enough to transfer most of that power to the blades. I am not saying you won't able to find an electric that'll produce just as much power, in fact, I encourage you to try, but it'll be hard.

Just as a side story...I heard of this one dude who tried to show off to some chicks by having someone start a cold engine while he is holding a blade of the fan. Many people do this successfully, but he just had to go one step further and keep holding it. Well, he thought that he'll just feel the resistance getting higher and higher at which point he would just let go, but to his demise the fan clutch had a spring in it and the rest you can just imagine... PAIN!

 

I've been thinking about doing this also. Anyone know what size fan is needed? How much cfm of air the stock one pushes out? What kind of fan is needed, a puller or pusher?

I know there are quite a few electric fans out there that do 3000+ cfm. I can't see how that wouldn't be sufficient. Also, a little off topic, but does anyone know how much mpg you'll gain doing this mod on a 3VZE?

 

The Taurus fan is a puller estimated at about 3500cfm, and sucks about 33 amps on Hi. It is for the most part is known to be enough to cool a 3.0l with stock radiator (although I am unconvinced of it being able to keep up with auto transmissions in hot environments). I doubt you will see any MPG difference, most people didn't.

Pros about an electric fan with variable controller:
- Much colder A/C while cruising in-town
- Better cooling characteristics while driving at low speeds off-road or in-city
- Possiby slightly better throttle response
- Can be turned off for water crossings (if you have a snorkel)


Cons:
- Might necessitate upgraded electrical system components
- E-fans have in some cases exacerbated overheating issues
- Proper shroud fit requires some custom modification
- People get jealous!

 

I installed a 15" Flex-A-Lite fan in mine maybe a year ago. I don't know the CFM it pulls unfortunately. I do know that when I undo the four bolts holding it on and unplug it, I can remove it quickly and have a ton of room in front of the engine when I need it.

I have no cooling problems, and living in AZ that says something. You can set it to run only at certain operating temps, or just on all the time with ignition, or with a switch as mentioned above. My temp guage sits rock steady, big hills, long stops... whatever.

I like the fact that the electric fan still pulls hard when idling (doesn't depend on engine RPM). That's great for running trails where you may be going slow or having to wait alot.

The one negative I find is that it is noiser than !! But mine is switched, so at a drive-thru or trying to talk to someone... I can flip it off for a few seconds.

My 2 cents.

 

How about the electric fan on the 91/92 camry with the 3vzfe? Pretty much the same or simular engine. Or what about a fan on either side of the rad?

 

i have a friend who built his own about 10 years ago and finally put in the BlackMagic Toyota version? they all worked fine for ayear or so and eventually started having problems with different components. I know he wished he had kept it stock

 

Dont foget that fan is rpm based, the huge advantage to an electric is when your not moving its going at max speed if it needs to. Even if the clutch fan is capibile of more cfm it would require many rpm's and a very hot underhood since the clucth is heat driven. During 99% of driving the electric fan will be able to produce more air flow..Personally I have only ever heard my clutch fan engauge 5 times or less..

And its not really a 150hp motor pushing the fan, only takes about 10, since that is what the rear wheel gain is on most rigs.

My dad put electric fans on his 97 K2500 454 burb, they flow way more air than the stock fan.. and thats a 310+hp motor...

The drag is a huge advantage.. I am doing a tarus fan install on my rig, some for the low speed cooling.. but mostly to alleviate the drag at hwy speeds...

 

Scratch that its driven off the power steering pump.

 

I am running an electric fan wired to a switch on the dash, everything is 50 amp rated. I NEVER even switch my electric on unless I am going to get out and leave it idling or if I am in the city traffic. Even in the city I only switch it on at lights and switch it back off when cruising. I have zero problems unless I forget to turn it on. That only happened once when I was giving someone a jump. I would recommend a thermastatically controlled switch instead maybe with an interupter switch inside with a light to show when it is on.

That being said if you are experiencing overheating issues only when towing or on long grades, I would think that a solution would be to bypass the transmission oil to a seperate cooler and simply block the fittings at the radiator. Sounds to me that would be the real reason, when you are moving at highway speeds your fan is definitely not pulling air. The air is coming in faster than the fan unless the radiator cooling fins are restricted. The transmission oil can easily fluctuate wildly and can get pretty hot without causing trans problems but it can push the cooling capacity of the radiator over the edge.

In my humble opinion that is.

 

My runner is a 1992, SR5, 3VZE, A340H 4x4, stock height. The only major work done on the engine was the head gasket recall and when I got it I did some timing related work and pulley replacement on the front. Actually I didn't replace the pulley, the woodruff key slot was worn sloppy so I noticed that it went all the way through the gear so I just turned the gear around. I'll have to tell you that whole story one day it was a diagnostic nightmare. Transmission has never been out and the truck has 207,000 miles on it. I am slowly trying to make it "new" again.

You guys have helped me fix rear sag, radio related speaker issue, egr system cleaning and repair, etc., etc.

Thanks for a great forum with a lot of good input.